'97 850 (not turbo) with 189K.

Today I turned my car on and heard a high-pitched screaming coming directly from the engine block. I can faintly detect a real fast clicking within the screaming. The screaming is at ear-splitting volume with the hood up. I thought maybe the engine was out of oil soI added a whole quart (latelyI have been going through oil at a quicker rate) even though it's only been 3K miles since my last oil change.

After adding the oil, I ran the car for about a minute but didn't get an oil reading on the dipstick. Is that because the car needs to be running for a few minutes to getan oil reading, or is it because my engine is bone dry?

If the noise is related to my engine being without oil, how serious is the noise and what doI do now?Have I destroyed my engine by idling it for two minutes today with all the noise? If the noise is not related to low oil, what could it be?

I replaced the timing belt and serpentine belt on schedule.

Any advice? I'm desperate and worried about this car, whichI have owned for six years.

 

The dipstick should read full with the engine turned off if the car is on a reasonably level area. If, after adding a quart, you still have no reading on the dipstick that can be very bad.



At this point you have nothing to lose, fill the oil level until you get a good reading on the dipstick and try to fire it up.

...Lee

 

Thank you. I am going to max it out on oil now. I always noticed that I didn't get good oil readings until the car was running on the highway for several miles. I have also noticedoil leaking onto the top of the engine block (through the seals?) after the engine gets hot. I was told my a mech that I need my seals "reconditioned." I am not giving up on this car. I will go down with it.

 

Hello Copeland45,

If the noise sounds like a high pitched squeal or screeching and you added an extra quart of oil with no real showing on the stick, I'm fairly certain that you have a spun or worn piston bearing and a major leak.

I used to own an '86 Grand AM and this car had the Tech 4 engine which was known to eat oil and with out knowing it I heard what I thought a loose belt, but after replacing the belts and heading home from the parts store there was a horrible loud screech and then a clanging as the #3 piston broke and began bouncing around the inside of the block only to punch a hole through the block.

I'm not saying that this is your problem, but if it is, the the engine will be in need of a tear down before it becomes nothing more than a paper weight.

Best bet is tohave it towed, do not drive it,to a shop beforethe engineneeds to be replaced. [sm=headbang.gif]

I looked into a new replacement as well as a used for my '94 850 Estate here in Ontario only to find that a new engine would cost just over $8000 and agood used one is between $1500 & $2500.

All the best and let us know what's up.

[sm=icon_cheers.gif]and [sm=icon_rock.gif]

Later.

 

Does the noise go away when the car is warmed up?
A rod knock doesn't make a high piched whine.
But a nad timing belt tensioner and or idler does.

 

The noise becomes slightly less loud whenI hold down the accelerator in idle. TomorrowI am going to add more oil to it, crank it and listen. If the screeching is as loud as it was today without subsiding, I am having it towed to the Volvo shop. I am not going to drive it with the way it sounds right now.

Gentlemen, thanks for taking the time to respond.

 

I'm with Tech - i.e. a seized tensioner or idler or it might even be a seized A/C compressor.

 

Be careful just adding oil. You don't want to overfill the car cause that can blow out a seal. I highly doubt your high pitched noise is related to the oil being low. You are checking the oil with the engine not running, aren't you? Don't get the oil level above the high mark on the dipstick. If the level is between the low and high marks you should be fine.

 

Hey now Copeland45,

While I agree with others here, but Ialso have some doubts.

When my A/C compressor went in my '94 Volvo Estate I initially thought that it was a belt, 850's have one serpentene belt, and thought it was sticking or something but thinking about it, it is just one belt and wouldn't catch on anything.

It turned out to be the compressor bearing seizing as there was smoke coming from under the hood just after the air conditioning stopped working. Turned out to be the longest red light that I ever came across. And when I got the Quick-Brick home I popped the hood and checked to see what was causing the smoke and found it to be the compressor bearing spinning and stopping and so on.

If your mech says that your seals need, "reconditioning?!?!?", I would think that he means replacement as there is't any way that I know of to recondition the seals.

I have just replaced an engine and for there to be any warranty all seal and gaskets,timing belt, tensioner and water pumphad to be replaced. I found out from my tech that the seals are some type of plastisized felt contraption. I know your scratching your head at this, and I was doing the same at the time, but I was there when he was installing them and didn't believe him untill he tossed it to me, and I'll be darned, it was plastic or rubber seal with felt inside. As I said, I thought he was pulling my leg. And no, I have no idea how it does what it does, but it does.

You should be checking the oil level when when the engine is cold, as mention in other replies, and as mentioned earlier, your mech says seals, "replace them!". If your leaking oil and this isn't a recent event, (you said that you did the timing belt, right?) then there may bemore to this.

You sound kind of like me, you'll do what it takes to keep the ride right ( read "Expensive Habit") and you'll know how much work has gone into the Quick-Brick and I still have to buy summer wheels/tires, fix the cruise control, replace the drivers seat heater and find out about the metal trim around the sun roof, before it starts to leak.

I used to own a 1994 Acura Vigor GS(http://www.cardomain.com/ride/1717298) but needed more car around me.

Top up the forum with your results. I really hope that it isn't what I think it is as I can honestly say "I feel for ya man".

Tell us more.


Later.

 

One thing you could do is take off the serpentine (accessory) belt and start the car. IF the whine/scream goes away, you have narrowed down the culprit to the belt, rollers,tensioner or the alternator or AC compressor. Just be aware that you will get a battery/alternator light when you run the car without the belt attached, so I wouldn't do it too long.

Glenn

 

I filled it with oil to the correct level, cranked, and the sound is still there but it's different. I can hear knocking and clicking but the sound is not as loud. The car is idling with no problems except for the sound. No problem accelerating the RPMs in idle, and I even reversed and forwarded the car in the driveway with no problems. I looked at the belts as the car was idling and they are feeding fine. I don't think this is a tensioner problem, butI do admit that I had my belts replaced by non-Volvo techs. That happened in late 2006. If they botched the job, why am I just npw hearing the noise.

This may be all irrelevant though, because I am at the point now of wanting to trade-in this car. Simply put, as much as I love the 850, I need a RELIABLE work car and over the past six years I have dumped more than $5K into a car that I paid $13K for used in 2002. Does that make sense to you? I did it because I loved the car. I took it from 72K miles to 189K soI feel I got my use out of it. I am in the DC area and I have already found about six or seven cars at local volvo delaerships that I am interested in. Since I only need a work car (just bought a 2007 Passat), I will be buying another used Volvo. In particular, I have found a 2003 S80 with 40K miles on it thatI am interested in for about $15,000. It is at a nearby dealership. If anyone has any advice on the best dealerships around DC, please let me know. It appears that John Beyer Dulles Volvo has the largest selection.

Thanks!

 

This issue has now been resolved in the form of my buying a 2004 S60 (non-turbo) today with all bells/whistles and 32K miles for $15,800. God knows I hated to lose the 850 after six years of use, but it had become a money-pit and I used it as a trade-in.

 

Best of luck with your S60, and make sure to follow scheduled maintenance (especially the timing belt+pulleys+hydraulic tensioner if so equipped).


JPN

 

It's so hard to figure out when to cut you losses with a car. There is always a point where it's just not worth putting more money into an older car. When the engine went in my 94 850 Turbo, I just had this gut feel that it was going to turn into a money pit so I sold it for $800 and bought the white 850 R I now have.

Good luck with the S60. Once my 850's get to the the point of no return (hope it never happens) I will most likely look into an S60 Turbo.