How can this Happen??? 1 year later same problem returns!!!!
Right been here before quick recap...
Lst year had problems the engine was under performing, sounded rough and would jolt when accelerating.. like a cut out of power...
After messing a bout with usless dealers changing manifolds and what not, I changed the spark polugs and the car came back to life...
I thought it was over.
But its back HOW CAN IT BE.
Last year I had replaced the distrubter and rotor arm, and the ignition coil.
Today I tried the HT leads andagain changed the spark plugs (only one year old plugs)spark plugs.
I thought the plug would cure the problem like last time.
No difference. CAM sensor looks clean, no codes from ECU, but then for a misfire there wouldn't be as apparently my car doesnt detect misfire.
car 13 years old, 117000... thought these engines were supposed to last!
850 10v 2.5 estate
Lst year had problems the engine was under performing, sounded rough and would jolt when accelerating.. like a cut out of power...
After messing a bout with usless dealers changing manifolds and what not, I changed the spark polugs and the car came back to life...
I thought it was over.
But its back HOW CAN IT BE.
Last year I had replaced the distrubter and rotor arm, and the ignition coil.
Today I tried the HT leads andagain changed the spark plugs (only one year old plugs)spark plugs.
I thought the plug would cure the problem like last time.
No difference. CAM sensor looks clean, no codes from ECU, but then for a misfire there wouldn't be as apparently my car doesnt detect misfire.
car 13 years old, 117000... thought these engines were supposed to last!
850 10v 2.5 estate
alot of ppl overlook the spark plug wires. when they get old, they can cause the same symptoms. since you didnt mention them, try that next.
OEM is all I have used.
When you syay spark plug wires what do you mean I have replaced HT leads
I have placed every componant from the Ignition coil (including the ignition coil)to the spark plugs including the spark plugs and everthing in between, so:
Igniton coil replaced with oem>ignition lead replaced with oem>distributor assemblyreplaced with oem>HT leads replaced with oem>Spark plugs replaced with OEM> Engine not replaced (yet) should the engine be OEM as it don't seem to be very good?
with OEM Parts (as recommended on this site)from my local volvo garage, all of them are 1 year old or less.
Is it possible for the coil to not be receiving enough power?
I was wondering if some of these engine just die young, it would be unfortuanate but 117000 miles is getting on a bit isn't it specially for a volvo (ok sorry im being sarcasti)
When you syay spark plug wires what do you mean I have replaced HT leads
I have placed every componant from the Ignition coil (including the ignition coil)to the spark plugs including the spark plugs and everthing in between, so:
Igniton coil replaced with oem>ignition lead replaced with oem>distributor assemblyreplaced with oem>HT leads replaced with oem>Spark plugs replaced with OEM> Engine not replaced (yet) should the engine be OEM as it don't seem to be very good?
with OEM Parts (as recommended on this site)from my local volvo garage, all of them are 1 year old or less.
Is it possible for the coil to not be receiving enough power?
I was wondering if some of these engine just die young, it would be unfortuanate but 117000 miles is getting on a bit isn't it specially for a volvo (ok sorry im being sarcasti)
can i ask has someone got a rough timeline for failures on this car? do any match with mine:
100k : first issues clutch and hydrolic bit fail
107k: jolting first occurs, Exhaust manifold has crack and is diagnosed as the cause (but it isn't) and is replaced
108k: Radiator leaks and is replaced
109k: I work out that sparks cure jolting issue
115k: Front break disks and pad replaced
117k:Jolting issue returns
117k:lower ball joints due for replacement
100k : first issues clutch and hydrolic bit fail
107k: jolting first occurs, Exhaust manifold has crack and is diagnosed as the cause (but it isn't) and is replaced
108k: Radiator leaks and is replaced
109k: I work out that sparks cure jolting issue
115k: Front break disks and pad replaced
117k:Jolting issue returns
117k:lower ball joints due for replacement
Did you buy your car used? Has it been in a bad accident? 100k is nothing.
Since new, 1995 850, 140,000 miles: [ul][*]Normal wear items - tires, belts, brakes, etc.[*]Shiftlock over ride was recalled and fixed[*]Needs realignments quite often (tends to pull), maybe once/year[*]Flushed fuel system due to hard starting and rough running (bad fuel, water in tank, etc.) (2004)[*]Alternator (2005)[*]Receiver / Dryer - it was rusted out on the bottom (2006)[*]A/C recharges (2 cans will fill it and last over the summer)[*]Rear main seal is blown, but I used a sealer that seemed to have reduced the leakage quite a bit, maybe 1 quart per 6 months. (2007)[*]Transmission is starting to slip though...(very random and not consistent...crossing fingers) [/ul]That's it (jinxing myself right now)
Since new, 1995 850, 140,000 miles: [ul][*]Normal wear items - tires, belts, brakes, etc.[*]Shiftlock over ride was recalled and fixed[*]Needs realignments quite often (tends to pull), maybe once/year[*]Flushed fuel system due to hard starting and rough running (bad fuel, water in tank, etc.) (2004)[*]Alternator (2005)[*]Receiver / Dryer - it was rusted out on the bottom (2006)[*]A/C recharges (2 cans will fill it and last over the summer)[*]Rear main seal is blown, but I used a sealer that seemed to have reduced the leakage quite a bit, maybe 1 quart per 6 months. (2007)[*]Transmission is starting to slip though...(very random and not consistent...crossing fingers) [/ul]That's it (jinxing myself right now)
I've had some compression tests done, to mechanic, a renault expert who has worked on similar engines said he felt the readings were all fine, nothing to worry about.
The one area I haven't checked it injectors, I have no idea of the symptoms of these failing, how can you tell?
The one area I haven't checked it injectors, I have no idea of the symptoms of these failing, how can you tell?
The easiest way is when it is misfiring at idle unplug one at a time and see if you pull one and the idle doesn't drop at all. That means thats the cylinder that is dead.
But it also doesn't mean it is the injector it just means thats the dead cylinder.
But it also doesn't mean it is the injector it just means thats the dead cylinder.
I've handed it over to a mechanic who I believe I can trust, I'll let you know soon as to his findings(praying that its not something serious like a blown cylinder!!!!) if you don't hear back its probably placed me in tears!
well guess what... the cam drive bolt came of inside my nice new distributor (less that one year old put on by volvo dealer) and has obviously screwed up the distributor and so the timeing with it.... nothig too serious!!
fewf... crazy is this comon on volvos?
fewf... crazy is this comon on volvos?
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awfulwaffle
Volvo 850
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Sep 22, 2013 12:03 PM



