how to clean fuel injector. 96 850 turbo
 

replaced starter. car cranks but doesn't turn over brand new spark plugs and starter. car wants to start sounds like its about to start but doesn't. does anyone know how to clean fuel injectors yourself not take them to the shop? I think I have a clog in the fuel line somewhere possibly a line or maybe the fuel injector? can anyone tell me some home methods on how to clean the fuel injector or anyone have any advice? for the record I don't have a compression checker so that's not in my cards right now. NOTE. when the car died it barely had any gas in it and it sat for 2 days and when we started it it sputtered hard shut off and wouldn't start back up. tried to start it to no avail and fried the starter. starters replaced now but wont crank.

you can't really clean an injector properly without taking it completely apart. There are some good companies that do this. I've never personally had a "Clogged" injector at all. Have you checked your fuel pressure yet at the rail?

Crank = turn over. So, it is turning over.

I have NEVER heard of a car not starting because the injectors were clogged. Not your problem.

As explained in detail in your other thread, you need to have the compression checked. So, it looks like you need a new deck of cards. Trouble shooting is a process, that is the next step in the process.

Just a side note, when you ignore the advise of people here that are trying to help you, many of them will simply read and move on. They get paid to much to help other people.

Injectors arent your problem..

Any way cleaning your injectors is easy.
You can make a injector cleaner for under $50.

thanks for all your help. I will do what I can. just a note of advice sarcasm is not going to help me fix my car. if your time is so valuable and expensive you should not follow people to other threads. food for thought

Nobody was being sarcastic, we were all stating that injectors are not you problem..

if you want help you need to give some more info... did it do this before you replaced the starter? or was that why you replaced the started..

Does it crank and just not start?

Do you have spark?
Do you have compression?
Do you have Fuel flow?

What exactly is happening?


If your going to be a jack ass about us saying that the injectors are 99.99999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999 99999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999 999999999999% not your problem nobody is going to help you but if you want to provide us with more information we will be happy to try and help.

how to clean fuel injector 96 850 turbo
 

first thing is to establish fuel. do you know how to check for fuel pressure at the fuel rail there is a line that runs up to the fuel rail on passenger side there u can disconnect the line and if gas comes out of it you have gas at least that far. i agre with the others injectors are not your issue. but since you were so low on gas it suggests more like the fuel filter maybe plugged it is on the passenger side back near rear door underneath if no fuel at the rail then pull the filter and see if you can blow thru it. if it isnt letting air thru it easily there is your prob. if that is ok then you have to see uif the fuel presure regulator is working unhook a vac. line from it and if it has gas in vac. line its no good it is attached to the fuel rail. I assume you unhooked the battery and let it reset the computer by leaving it disconnected for 15 min. has the weather been cold where you live this is what happened to me cause of bad gas and gas line froze and now it has computer telling it to supply too much gas and runs like crap. when cold runs good after hitting operating temp starts to miss bad and is flooding basically and when you said it tries to start but don't that sounds like the same thing mine was doing before i got it running after towing it from bad gas. but hopefully it wont be cause my issues still arent over yet now i have a p1310 code and cant find the code anywhere and my reader says definition not found. good luck

p1310 is a mis fire on at least one cyl with twc(three way cat) damage...

Its most likey a cap, rotor, and wire issue..

im going to check the fuel line at the rail and then check the fuel filter. is there anything I have to do before I do this like take out the battery or pull a fuse?

another note when i turn the key to 2 and leave it there with all the lights on. im guessing what is the throttle body is humming and wont stop until i take out the key. whats that about?

just checked the fuel filter. i disconnected it and blew thru it and air got through but it was a little hard to do. i took the hose off the front part of the filter and turned the key to acc and fuel came out so its not the filter. i went to the rail to try and find the line to check for fuel there but i don't know which is which. also another thing when i leave the key in acc a part in the throttle body hums and doesn't stop until i take the key
out is this normal?

Thats your IAC.. Its supposed to do that..

Do you have fuel at the schrader valve at the rail?
Is your pump kicking on?

how to clean fuel injector 96 850 turbo
 

there is no need to do any battery or fuse removal to check the fuel rail for fuel or for the fuel filter. this is just first things to check fuel, spark and compression. you can start at the fuel filter if you want to follow the fuel flow in the right order of where it goes first. as for your humming noise that is your fuel pump making that sound it means it is working.



as for my P1310 code why does it run perfect at cold start up and then after reaching normal operating temp start missing so bad i can't get it to barely go and stall, has no power seems the only way to get it to actually run well enough to get moving from dead stop or moving slowly is to only ever so lightly press on accelerator. if you would read my post on 97 850T-5 bad gas issues 3 months it has a very detailed info on what i have done to the car and what it does to give you a better understanding of all the details. it posted i think 2 days ago but not sure think it was in general topic room but not sure where it posted at as i am new on here and don't know how to get to specific places on the site yet Thank you

my fuel pump is kicking on. I don't know which one is the shrader valve or how to get to it. I see the aluminum covering of the fuel injectors with the 2 12mm bolts I undid the bolts but now what? I don't want to break anything so that's why im asking before doing. also im going to check for spark but as I said the engine doesn't turn on so how do I check the spark plugs for spark? I heard something about a screwdriver but I don't know what to do. the car is at my father inlaws house so I can only work on it at certain times and on borrowed tools. a mechanic said to check the cam sensor. can someone tell or show me a picture of where it is? when I pull the plugs this sunday what do I do if the plugs are wet with fuel besides letting them dry out? what does it mean if they are wet?

Ok so it sounds like you have no clue what your doing...
Not to be a dick or anything but STOP where you are and take your car to a shop before you damage something or hurt yourself..

Seriously

But a couple things for you to consider...

The motor doesnt need to start to check spark, it just needs to crank.
The schrader valve is at the end of the fuel rail.

and you never answered the questions from before.... When was the first time the car didnt start? before or after you replaced the starter?

If the sound is coming from the motor around the t-body its the IAC...

I cant find your other thread, can you find it an put the link here please?

the car stopped working before the starter died. car had barely any gas drove it to in laws house. car sat in the street for the weekend and then on Monday it started chugged very hard and died and would not turn on again. starter was old and fried from trying to start it so I replaced it and this is where im at.

not to be a dick back but im on this site for help because I cant go to a mechanic. im trying to do everything myself. no I don't know everything im doing or what everything is called or where its located that's why im reaching out to you guys for help.

how to clean fuel injector 96 850 turbo
 

yes that IAC is supposed to do that its fine but a partially plugged fuel filter can result in not enough fuel to run but may not be the prob. did you take off a vacuum line at the fuel pressure regulator if you are standing in front of car it is covered on the underside of the fuel rail on the left end side of fuel rail

when I have the 2 12mm bolts off the rail do I just pull it up hard or what?

NO !!!
Put the bolts back in... Do NOT pull the injectors...
You will tear the o-rings and be screwed until you are able to get a replacement set

The schrader valve is here
Attachment 27407

Stupid question but have you put more than 5 gallons in the tank??

The only reason I say to bring it to a shop is because your going to screw something up and probably catch your car on fire if you f up the injector o-rings..

This was his way of telling me to F-OFF. Which is fine with me. Saves me a lot of time of making "HOW TO" videos for him.

Here is his other thread for the same problem:
https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...t-start-69861/

The schrader valve is the valve that looks similar to the valve stem of a tire. It's hiding under the plastic cover that protects the throttle linkage.
Fuel pressure gauges are sometimes available as a loan from auto parts stores. You should have around 43 psi. If you have a clogged fuel filter you might get the right pressure but not enough volume for the engine to run or start. You need both but that's for another time. First find out if you have the pressure.

Once you have the bolts off you wiggle it up. If you have taken the fuel lines loose then the only thing holding it down should be the "O" ring seals between the injectors and the head.
Not the best but read this: http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...hp?f=1&t=25331

When you turn the key to "start" and the engine starts to crank or turn over it should be squirting fuel and the spark plugs should be firing. If not it won't start. Sounds familiar ?? To check spark you take one of the ignition wires either the one from the coil to the cap loose at the cap or one off the spark plug at the plug. Then you put a screw driver into the wires end and hold it within a 1/4" of something metal that will allow a spark to jump to it. That is how you check. You want to be careful of the 25 to 40 thousand volts that produce that spark as you can get one hell of a shock if you're not careful. OR ,, you can put a spark plug into the end of the wire and lay it on something metal.
Remember if you pull the ignition coils wire and you get a good spark it doesn't indicate that it's getting to the engine. You could still have a bad distributor cap or rotor. If you check the coils wire and it's good, check at the end of the spark plug wire to make sure it's getting there. If the wires are getting old and cracking they can be shorting out too. Picture 3



If you don't know, listed and learn. If you have thin skin you're in trouble and we will all needle you. We do it to each other so don't even dream we won't give you a little grief. If you just swallow hard we will teach you and pretty soon you'll be the guy slapping the new kid in the back of the head. :-)

If someone is nasty there are moderators that can take care of that. You'll see moderator in the box by there name. If it's a moderator or someone with a lot of posts giving you a bad time it's likely you aren't listening or you missed some point completely.

Last point, we will hunt you down. We've been here longer and we feel we belong and you're just the new guy. I'm not trying to be harsh but it's reality. What can you do to help us . . . . . I'm sorry . . . . . exactly?

Right now you don't know how to explain the difference between an engine cranking (without firing) and an engine cranking and firing but not running and firing & running. So forgive us if we get your terminology straightened out first because for me I have to understand what you're trying to say.
On the other hand if you say the funny little thing on the back of the firewall that looks like a horn ... no one is going to make fun of you as I'm sure none of us knew what the hell that thing was when we opened the hood for the first time.
Also if you don't know but can post a picture or give a description of the "thing with the electrical connector to the left of the other thing" we will do our best to figure it out. We are here to help and we will but you have to pay us with a little of your dignity, we don't take cash !!

[QUOTE=rspi;347701]This was his way of telling me to F-OFF. Which is fine with me. Saves me a lot of time of making "HOW TO" videos for him.



Robert ??? I didn't know you had a video of how to pull your head out of your ***. I could have use that one a couple of times by now :eek:

This might or might not help, but its worth a shot. And it's pretty hard to screw up.

https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...p-relay-64044/

How to clean fuel injectors : your original question. IMHO, with each LOF toss in a bottle of Lucas fuel injector cleaner.
They can be disassembled but if they are that bad you might as well replace them and flush the entire system and tank if they are that bad. Again that's just my opinion.

You said:
if I pull the plugs and they are wet with fuel what do I do? do I pull the plugs out and let them dry?

Best to replace them but I'd wait till you find the problem and it's running. For now if you have or can borrow a propane torch it does a great job of burning off the gas from places you can't get to. Second best is blow them dry, lastly lay them out in the sun.

I will check if the cam turns and if the timing belt is ok. my guess is the timing belt is fine and the cam is turning.

Easy thing to do is unscrew the distributor cap and see if the rotor turns when you crank the engine. It will tell you if it's all turning and it gives you a chance to see how clean the inside of the cap is and how chewed up the end of the rotor is.

could the cam sensor or crankshaft sensor have anything to do with it?

Definitely. If they fail you will be missing injector pulse and or ignition pulse. If you are getting wet plugs you know you have injector pulse.

as I said when I crank the car everything sounds fine and the engine sounds as if it is about to turn over but it just sounds like fuel is not getting to the engine.

Have you tried something really simple like just squirting some starting fluid in there to see if it pops ??

when I tested the relay on a continuity tester 2 at a time some of them barely lit the light up so does that mean the relay is faulty?

No. You need to look at the diagram. A relay is an ON OFF switch operated by an electromagnet. For a four terminal fuel pump one set should have a resistance but have continuity while the other set shows OPEN or infinate resistance. The OPEN set close when power is sent to the magnet set.
To properly test a relay you need to test it RESTING and ENERGIZED by applying the correct voltage to the magnet. Then there is the chance it has burned contacts which will test good but have too high a resistance to effectively pass the proper amount of current. That's another thread also :rolleyes:

when the fuel pumps were changed I did not change the relay and some people have said that that should be the case. is there a way I can clean the fuel line or possibly blow it clean?

The relay could be a problem but you're saying the plugs are wet so I doubt it's your problem. At this point don't ask Rspi what your problem is as I'd hate to see the answer :p First check the fuel pressure at that valve. And before that, check to see if you have spark first as I'm thinking your fuel side is good.

I have tried spraying starter fluid through the top part of the air filter box through the grated part and the cranking sounds the same really. I will check for spark check if the plugs are wet unscrew the distributor cap and check the rotor and if somehow I do come across the fuel pressure gage I will check that but that will not likely be for a while as I can NOT get that right now and I will report back but as I said I can only work on the car at certain times such as easter sunday. if there is anything else besides fuel pressure that I can check as to why it wont start please let me kno asap. again thank you for all your help

I don't think there is much to do until you check for spark. I wouldn't bother to get a fuel pressure tester yet. If it's no spark we can tell you some stuff but it's just too much to go into everything it could be until you narrow it down a little.

Im only going to ask this one more time and then Im done in this thread... It has become a waste of server space... Since you ran the car out of gas have you filled it up with at least 5 gallons????

BTW this is the post im referring to it sound like you ran out of gas

I know my Dad would sure have said I was out of gas if I did all that. That was always his first question.

yes the car was filled with more than 5 gallons of gas. sorry forgot to answer that

Ok here is what you need to do... Your going to need some one to help you as a extra set of hands and ears..

1. remove the fuel pump cover.

2. Have some one listen right above the fuel pump as you turn the key to position 2... JUST turn the key to position 2 do not attempt to crank the car. When you turn the key to position 2 the fuel pump will prime for 3 to 5 seconds, they will hear it kick on and start humming then shut off..

3. If it kicks on your fuel pump is working.

4. If it doesnt kick on then you have either a bad fuel pump or a stuck relay

Lets assume it kicked on..

5. grab a rag and a flat heat screw driver

6. turn the key to position 2 again and go under the hood and depress the shradder valve to see if there is fuel pressure, holding the rag under and in front so not to get gas every where..

If fuel sprays out you have fuel to the rail... done and done..

Now you need to check for spark most people dont have a spark tester so here is the easiest way to check..

1. Get a spare spark plug, it doesnt matter what its from it could be a lawn mower plug.

2. remove the boot off of one of your plugs...

3. Plug the spare plug into that boot.

4. Pull your fuel pump relay

5. hold the rubber part of the boot while holding the tread ( On the side by the crush washer) of the plug aginst the valve cove ground bolt. Thats on the back of the valve cover where the braided cable attaches from the firewall to the motor..

6. Have some one crank the car while holding the plug to that ground while they crank looks for spark

If you have spark your good

If you dont then you need to start diagnosing no spark

Do these steps first and report back..

Dont go pulling the fuel rail or extending the battery cables... just do these two things first and report back..

if I cant get my hands on a spare spark plug can I use one of the ones that's in there? also the fuel pump does kick on everytime perfectly. I kno this might not matter but the fuel pump was brand new because the car sat for about 4 years (tires never deflated or went bad) but as I said the fuel pump is brand new and hums perfectly everytime. I will do these tests on easter sunday being the only day I can work on it coming up. I really appreciate all the help and REALLY appreciate the non condescending comments

a friend of mine has an OBD 2 scanner. can I use this with the car not turning on? and does it need a special Volvo cartridge?

a standard obd 2 scanner doesnt need a special chip, your thinking of the snap-on scanners..

But beware when your car throws codes during a no start issue it will most likely throw false codes.

For example the first time I did my pcv I put the small bracket that holds the lines to the block in between the intake manifold and the block not on top of the intake mani like it was supposed to..

This created a air leak.. The car threw a tps code, a 02 code and a twc dammage code..

It you pass buy a auto parts store pick up a cheap $1.40 spark plug... It will come in handy

I plugged in the scanner and 0 codes came up. I checked for fuel pressure at the valve and there is plenty of pressure don't know exactly how much. I pulled the spark plugs and they are wet with gas and are black. I removed them to let them dry and clean them... any feedback as to this being why the car wont start? :confused:

Try replacing the plusg... if they were black you may have fouled them..

Did you put a plug in the wire and see if you have spark?

no I did not have a chance to pick up a spare spark plug so can I try to use one of the ones I pulled.? also as I said I pulled all 5 they were black but still look good so I cleaned them and got all the black out and am now letting them dry. if I plug in the plug to check for spark can I try to turn the car on to check for spark with no spark plugs in and can the plugs be in with no spark plug in there or should I take the plugs out? when I go to turn the car on with no plugs or wires in there is it going to blow whatevers in there out?

Yes you can use one of the old plugs but pull the fuel pump relay so your not filling the cylinders with gas

Or the fuse. The fuse is much easier to get to.