I am thrilled to find this forum as you all might be my saving grace! Thank you to all who reply to my first post in advance!

You all seem to be very informative on Volvo's so here goes.....(any suggestions would be great)

I have a 1996 GLT 2.4L non turbo. (Please remember I am not mechanically inclined). I am having the following problems:

1. Rough idling. It idles between 1000-1800 RPMS when sitting at a trafficlight. I think this is normal, but not sure. However, upon start up, the RPMS go up to about 2800 RPMS for the first 10-15 secs and then calms down (on it's own) to about 2000 RPMS until I put it in drive then goes to about 1500RPMS. Is this normal?

2. Accerlation is wimpy. It seems to have not umph at all at take off. I don't expect to be launched to the moon, however, I don't expect to be left to collect dust by Ford Festivas (no offense to any Ford loyalists out there) either. However, once I get past 55 mph, it seems to run better, the accerlation becomes quite responsive and it rides much better. I had the oil changed, tune up (plugs, wires etc.) this has not cured the problem though.

3. My service light and check engine light keeps coming on. The code that keeps coming up is "random misfire". Again, the tune up was done to fix this problem. But , my volvo isn't responding to this treatment. There is another light that is now coming on-randomly-that I am not sure what it is. It's located on the left hand side of the dash and looks like a light bulb with an exclamation point in the center of it. I thought maybe I had a bulb out-nope. My lights are fine.

4. My exhaustsometimes sounds loud. Not real loud and not all the time, just to gain notice at all the wrong times. I love my car-but when this happens, Ihavereally tried to blend in withmy upholstery and not be noticed...I took it to my mechanic and he said the exhaust was fine (he put it up on the lift) and has no idea why it is loud as he could not find a leak or a failing gasket.

At this point, I'd take my Volvo to a dealership service station, but I don't think I can afford that bill (I am a school teacher). I love my car, but I am fusterated at this point. My mechanic just stares at it half the time with his hand on his chin, looking baffled and now he only says "Hmmmmmmmmmm, I don't know." Ok, Now that I did the tune up, what next do I rule out? Could all these problems be related to one issue? What do I do now?

THANK YOU FOR YOUR ADVICE!!!
Roxy

 

1. No that is not normal. It should be at like 750 to 800 RPM

2.Answered my quiestion in 3

3.Did they change the Dist. cap,rotor and wires?
Service light is an oil change reminder only
If someone replaced a bulb that isn't the same brand as another that can make the new light come on.
Or worse for the Missfire you could have a burn't valve. Which a compression test can tell you.

4.Is it just a loud exhaust sound or something else like a rattling?

 

Hello Roxy,

Greetings from Chicagoland.

Sorry for your troubles, let me write up suggestions before Tech/others show up.

1. ROUGH IDLING:
The engine definitely needs to be serviced & tested. Almost all cars idle at below 1,000 RPM, regards less of the shifter position. Idling at 1,800 is way too high. Also, RPM climbing up to 2,800 after start-up is way too high. There is undoubtedly a problem in the idle control system. The throttle plate could be stuck partially open for some reason, fuel control problem (EEC module problem, find out the codes), etc...

2. POOR ACCELERATION:
Does RPM goes up at acceleration? If so, the problem could be in the transmission. Check the correct level for transmission fluid. There might be a problem in the lower gears (1st & 2nd), check for codes possibly stored in the transmission ECU. Now, you're not using the Winter Mode all the time, right? Winter Mode gives you sluggish performance at lower speed.

3. DASH LIGHTS:
CEL: The codes have to be deleted to make the light go away. If there's an AutoZone nearby, go there and have them clear the codes, it's free (But I would at least buy a quart of oil or something as a courtesy, but that's just me).
SERVICE: This is just a reminder for oil change, it comes on at certain intervals.
LIGHT BULB WARNING: You do have a burned out bulb somewhere, and I assume one of the brake light bulbs is shot. Place your car so that the rear-end faces show-windows or reflective surfaces, and check to see if there is a bulb that does not light. If you still don't see any burned-out bulb, the warning light circuit may have a short somewhere.

4. EXHAUST NOISE:
If it's so noticeable, there is a leak. It could be somewhere closer to the engine, and your mechanic may have not inspected that area. Check for water drippings & sooty spots. The closer the leak to the engine, the louderit is. If this is not the case, something could be loose and vibrating according to the given condition, though I doubt it.

If I were you, I would change the mechanic. I don't want to put others down, but your mechanic doesn't seem to know much about modern cars. Working on modern cars requires enormous effort, both in reading & hands-on experience. Is he fully ASE-certified, by the way? If he kept up with the least homework, he would've solved most of the above by now.

I expect that the dealer would be able to fix most of your problems, though as you noted, the bill would be about 20-30% (or more) higher than average shops. See if you can find an independent shop that specializes in Swedish/European cars.

Lastly, I strongly suggest that you invest approx. $20in a Haynes Volvo 850 service manual. Try getting familialise yourself with your car, you'll be surprised how simple it is to service certain items, but if there is uncertainty or you don't feel safe, have a technician/people with mechanical skills assist you.

Best wishes,


JPN

 

Can you tell us exactly what the tune-up consisted in? What did you change? What kind of spark plug wires did you buy?

 

Hi all, thank you for your replies!!!!

1.The tune up was cap, rotor, plugs, plugwires, oil change, and air filter.I believe these were all Napa parts that my mechanic put on.

2. The engine codes were suseposedly cleared, however, before I even pulled away from my mechanic's parking lot (just had the oil changed), the service light went right back on. My mechanic responded with "It has to circulate through the oil to clear itself back out". I am not entirely buying this statement, but I could be wrong.

3. I will look again for a bulb out-I must have missed it somewhere...

4.It is definately a exhaust noise, not a rattle. It also feels like it is right under the driver's seat.

5. The RPMS seem normal upon accerlation-but sometimes it will shift really hard into first and second gears (almost slamming itself into gear). I noticed when it does this the RPMs don't go up as one would suspect with a bad transmission. (I began watching the RPMs to see if the transmission was slipping)
I make sure that it isn't in winter mode-I drive it in Economy or Sports mode. I did notice though that in Sports mode the caris much more responsiveonaccerlation (didn't remember this until someone mentioned this) and the gears shift smoother.

6. Thank you for the suggestion of buying Haynes book-I am determined to learn more about my car. I think I should learn about my car as if I should get stuck on the side of the road or save a few $$$, knowledge would be great...
I do love my Volvo (it's my first one) and waited a long time for it...However, I am now starting to think someone before me didn't love it as much as I do (I have only had the car a couple of months).

7. The exhaust-I would really perfer to have this checkedat a Volvo dealership, but I want to first take care of any issues with the transmision/engine first.

I think I will go to Auto Zone, as one suggested and have them clear the codes (of course I will buy some oil or windshield wiper fluid or something) and see what comes up after that.

As far as switching mechanics I am already looking to find another service station that would better service my needs of my car. My mechanic is ASE certified, and was great on my domestic model car, but I am finding out not so on my Volvo.

 

Good evening,

Here are my nagging:

1. Volvo's are really sensitive to the quality of parts. If poor-quality parts (unfortunately, like NAPA) are installed, the performance may not be as good as it should be. In general, it is best to go with OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer, the companies that supplied parts for new cars) parts. Those with mechanical skills & tools can buy parts on-line, and do the work themselves. If you can find a shop that specializes in Swedish/European cars that accepts parts from you, that would be great.

2. >My mechanic responded with "It has to circulate through the oil to clear itself back out".
Negative. Once cleared, the Service Light should not come on until the specified interval has reached.

3.Also, listen to "Moderator Tech"'s suggestion. M. Tech is the top-dog on this forum, he's too good to be true!

4. There may be an exhaust leak closer to the engine.

5. Difficult scenario, without actually testing it. If the gearbox behaves better in Sport mode, I would stick to it and not bother Economy mode. I've driven with both modes, and the fuel consumption difference seemed negligible to me. As any automatic gearbox repair is expensive, I can only suggest that you take your 850 to a shop (not the one you've been using, sorry but they seem incompetent for Volvo's) and have the transmission fluid flushed. This may or may not solve the problem, but it's worth a try.

6. If you love your car, you'll be surprised how quickly your knowledge & skills on cars progress. Also, you won't get taken by unscrupulous/incompetent mechanics, once you become knowledgeable. I would study both the owner's guide & service manual. While often neglected, the owner's guide is full of useful & imperative info to keep your car in good condition.

>I am now starting to think someone before me didn't love it as much as I do
You're 100% right. Unfortunately, this happens too often, so buying a used car is almost a gamble. On the other hand, it provides job security to technicians & dealers alike.

Here aresomehints for finding a good shop/technician (from my prejudice):

1. Fully-certified Master ASE.
2. Have up-to-date testing/diagnostic equipment.
3. Tell you ifthey cannot do certain jobs (e.g. wheel alignment)
4. Explain the problems & solutions until you fully understand, as well as giving you realistic estimate of a job.
5. Have some factory-training certificates.
6. Have access to a computer in the shop.
7. Allowyou to watch while they work on your car.

Friends' recommendations are almost always useless, as far as my experience goes (unless you're friend with M. Tech!).

I wish you the best on your progress.

Sincerely,


JPN

 

Thank you! I have ordered the Haynes Service manual this morning and am now searching for anew owner's guide (mine did not come with one when I bought it). I am looking forward to learning about my car and even getting my hands greasy (nails can be cleaned, regrownand repainted :-))
I am going to bring it to the Volvo service station to have them go through it and then decide what I want them to do and what I would like to try to do on my own (beginners things obviously for now) with the help of my new service manual and owner's guide.
I think the car is worth it, as it has only 99,000 miles and the body/interior is in excellant shape.......
I am going to have them look at RPMS (fuel system), codes, etc. Then I will prioritize and tacklethe issues one at a time. I am sure I will have my moments, but learning the car I think is a good thing. I am sure I will be posting more as I learn (already I am spending a lot of time reading here on this forum).....

Thanks!!!!!!!
Roxy

 

For the Exhaust issue the Flex pipe might be starting to break and when the Engine is tilted a certain way it might be leaking.
Then when the engine shifts back it might reseal.

 

Hello Roxy,

I bought my owner's guide at the following, I think it was $25 or so with shipping:
https://www.volvotechinfo.com/index.cfm?event=shop.cart

Or you may be able to find one at less $ at eBay, etc...

Refer to M. Tech's suggestion on exhaust leak, I once had a leak from the flex portion of the pipe (the part that is usually covered with metal braiding) on an Accord.

Have a good weekend.


JPN

 

Nice service info here:

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/dow.../Volvo_850.zip

Good luck and post all your doubts here!

 

.....and if you rather not get your hands dirty, I recommend that you buy a box of 100-pair nitride gloves. I usually buy a box at AutoZone, and a 100-pair box is approx $10 + tax. They will also protect your hands from certain chemicals/fluids. I work on vehicles frequently, and a box usually lasts about 3-4 weeks.

I wish you the best of luck. If you can find an independent shop specializing in Swedish/European cars and if the tech's are top-notch, I would patronize the shop, so you can talk to them and gain your knowledge.

Good night,


JPN

 

Correction:

The gloves are of NITRILE, not Nitride. The product name is "Derma-Lite".

Best wishes,


JPN