I Just Don't Understand
#1
I Just Don't Understand
My car for some odd reason, on various random moments would have an electrical drain. No body including myself could understand why. I had checked it myself, the dealer, friends, relatives, and the independent shops. No one could come up why. It can't be the battery, for we tried that by changing it out, it has a new alternator and serpentine belt. It would drain when there is a dramatic drop in the temperature outside and during winter. However it would also happen during the summer, just less often. Sometimes you know when you try to start the car and can see the dim dash lights and slow starts, other times you'll be driving along and the radio would cut in and out, then the a/c or heater, followed by turn signals not working. What's worse is everything would work when you first start it and after I got to where I needed to go and come back to start it (sometimes in a min. or less), the battery goes flat. I'm afraid to drive my car now, for it's happening more and more often. It's very embarrassing to as random people to help me jump start my car, or when you have passengers start freaking out specially when it's about to die in the middle of traffic! I'm I just that one off unique case or has anyone happen to there 850s?
#4
I would check your relays.
Here is some info from Dave Barton's site:
"Dave, thanks for posting this information on how relays can interfere with ignition. I had a gradually worsening stalling problem over the past year and a half. The mechanics could not trace it, since the stalling was never associated with a "check engine" light (good mechanics but not Volvo specialists). The symptoms usually were a failure to restart after a short stop, but it eventually worsened to stalling in traffic. I guess the engine heat would cause a bad solder joint to open up and block spark to the engine. I replaced the various relays you mentioned and I have not had any stalling since then. I wonder if a Volvo specialist would have diagnosed the problem earlier? In this case I took your suggestion to the mechanic, and he admitted it would not have occurred to him. Definitely bookmarking your site for future reference!" M.L.
Here is some info from Dave Barton's site:
"Dave, thanks for posting this information on how relays can interfere with ignition. I had a gradually worsening stalling problem over the past year and a half. The mechanics could not trace it, since the stalling was never associated with a "check engine" light (good mechanics but not Volvo specialists). The symptoms usually were a failure to restart after a short stop, but it eventually worsened to stalling in traffic. I guess the engine heat would cause a bad solder joint to open up and block spark to the engine. I replaced the various relays you mentioned and I have not had any stalling since then. I wonder if a Volvo specialist would have diagnosed the problem earlier? In this case I took your suggestion to the mechanic, and he admitted it would not have occurred to him. Definitely bookmarking your site for future reference!" M.L.
Last edited by Aftermidnight; 03-18-2011 at 02:54 AM.
#6
The draining happens when there is a drop in the temp and during the cold months more often than compared to summer. I had people test for a draw for me at different locations and they can't find one. Battery is the regular ones. Voltage from alternator on I don't quite remember right now (can't check, car's in shop) but it's about one or two volts higher than the battery when the car's off and that's about 12.3 to 12.4 volts. Not sure if it's the relay or could it? Relay's can drain a battery can it? I know that relay problem with the stalling happened once when my aunt brought the car new when it was about like less than a year old. But I don't remember her saying anything about having a electrical drain when that happened. Ignition switch, never thought about that, guess I'll ask them to take a look while it's at the dealership tomorrow.
#7
#8
Thats true about the terminal. Even a slightly loose or bad connection would cause it to shut off.
On the battery side...
Is it an interstate battey, or another cheapo brand?
I used to run it to a similar prob with my battery when I lived in NY, after replacing the volvo OEM battery with an interstate as soon as we had our first freeze the bat would go bad, also the first day over 90.
I switched to a optima dry cell and problem was solved. That battery lasted me 5 years, 3 of those years were in the miami heat. Im now on my second optima and this one has lasted me 2 years so far. I have even left the interior light on (by accident) for a weekend while I was away, and the car started no problem when I got back to the airport lot.
390,000+ miles and 15 years this is the best battery i ever bought.
On the battery side...
Is it an interstate battey, or another cheapo brand?
I used to run it to a similar prob with my battery when I lived in NY, after replacing the volvo OEM battery with an interstate as soon as we had our first freeze the bat would go bad, also the first day over 90.
I switched to a optima dry cell and problem was solved. That battery lasted me 5 years, 3 of those years were in the miami heat. Im now on my second optima and this one has lasted me 2 years so far. I have even left the interior light on (by accident) for a weekend while I was away, and the car started no problem when I got back to the airport lot.
390,000+ miles and 15 years this is the best battery i ever bought.
#9
The terminals you mean the clamps that go on to the battery? Should I replace those cables/clamps then? The battery is by Energizer. So I got my car today at the dealership and they said the car is fine but the battery is on the borderline of going bad. Then I took the car to Sam's Club and they said my battery is fine but my alternator is bad. After that at Autozone they said my battery is good but my alternator is bad at 13.2 volt which I thought that was a normal level. The pictures attached is from Sam's Club from the new machine they said they used.
#13
How do you go about checking at the alt? The battery I just did tonight was 12.5 with the car off and 13.5 with it on and nothing else. With the headlights and radio it when to 13.26, and a/c 13.17, and defroster at 13 or 12.97. I guess that was why that one winter night the car gave me problems for I had everything on.
#15
#16
Another thing to check is for corrosion on the battery lines...inside the insulation. I have seen where the acid makes its way down the line inside and you dont see it. You can tell if the line is not pliable. Check for breaks in the insulation. I just had one here last week, I should have taken a picture.
#17
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