Interesting A/C Situation - Replaced Relay
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Interesting A/C Situation - Replaced Relay
Ok - I have been griping about the A/C situation in my wife's 850 for a while now.
So I determined that the voltage at the compressor would start at 10V, and then drop below that, and therefore causing the A/C to kick out due to the relay getting hot, and therefore causing more resistance. (It would steadily decline from 10v's and then hang out around 8v's - it was an analog voltmeter, so I don't have the EXACT voltage reading.)
So before commiting to doing the "re-shimming" job, I decided to replace the relay with the newer relay that replaced the blue capped relay.
When I replaced it, the voltage held constant at 10V, but the A/C compressor would not turn on unless I did the broomstick test.
So - becuase I had to pack for an early morning trip to Indiana, that I did today, I decided that I would handle it later. My wife knows how to hook up the direct wire if needed.
The wife ran a few errands last night while I crashed out early for a 5 a.m. flight, and again this morning. While I was on my way back from Indiana today, she told me that all during that time - where the car was running constantly for several hours, engine stopped constantly as she went from place to place... the A/C NEVER QUIT, and the direct wire was never connected.
So I am wondering - did the A/C Relay replacement actually do the trick? Or is it a fluke? Both times she was out were extreme temp ranges - afternoon and morning. I could see the morning time it not turning off, BUT the relay will still get warm even at that time period.
Remember - the Compressor would turn on with a direct connection - DID NOT need a broom stick push. The only time it needs the broom stick push was when it was just with the relay, but what concerns me is that it didn't immediately kick off when it was first replaced.
So - I am just putting this out there. Any thoughts?
So I determined that the voltage at the compressor would start at 10V, and then drop below that, and therefore causing the A/C to kick out due to the relay getting hot, and therefore causing more resistance. (It would steadily decline from 10v's and then hang out around 8v's - it was an analog voltmeter, so I don't have the EXACT voltage reading.)
So before commiting to doing the "re-shimming" job, I decided to replace the relay with the newer relay that replaced the blue capped relay.
When I replaced it, the voltage held constant at 10V, but the A/C compressor would not turn on unless I did the broomstick test.
So - becuase I had to pack for an early morning trip to Indiana, that I did today, I decided that I would handle it later. My wife knows how to hook up the direct wire if needed.
The wife ran a few errands last night while I crashed out early for a 5 a.m. flight, and again this morning. While I was on my way back from Indiana today, she told me that all during that time - where the car was running constantly for several hours, engine stopped constantly as she went from place to place... the A/C NEVER QUIT, and the direct wire was never connected.
So I am wondering - did the A/C Relay replacement actually do the trick? Or is it a fluke? Both times she was out were extreme temp ranges - afternoon and morning. I could see the morning time it not turning off, BUT the relay will still get warm even at that time period.
Remember - the Compressor would turn on with a direct connection - DID NOT need a broom stick push. The only time it needs the broom stick push was when it was just with the relay, but what concerns me is that it didn't immediately kick off when it was first replaced.
So - I am just putting this out there. Any thoughts?
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,052
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From: Pac NW
You should see closer to 12v at the compressor coil when the A/C relay is on.
Either the compressor is drawing excessive current (compressor solenoid coil resistance too low, possibly due to being partially shorted) or you have excessive resistance somewhere between fuse 11-31 (25A) and the compressor solenoid coil. In between fuse and coil are the A/C relay, high and low pressure switches.
Either the compressor is drawing excessive current (compressor solenoid coil resistance too low, possibly due to being partially shorted) or you have excessive resistance somewhere between fuse 11-31 (25A) and the compressor solenoid coil. In between fuse and coil are the A/C relay, high and low pressure switches.
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