Fixing the ECC can be a pain. Check the sensors that are above the door, behind the grab handles. Verify the small fan spins and the resistor wire is not broken.

The panels are hard to cover, the shape makes it difficult to prevent ripples. Try some vinyl or something that will stretch.

 

got an update with pics for you all (sorry pics are from my phone )

 

i really do have to clean all the interior. I did clean the rear cargo area carpet when I put it in but nothing else as of yet.... I am all most there just a few more parts then I am going to work on fixing it all. The door panels need to be reskined and I need to fix the lift gate door panel but soon it will be done...

 

hey I try to keep you all posted with this update and nothing thats cool I just thought that some one was interested might have some questions or some thing like that.... I am still working on it. will post more soon....

 

I'm interested in knowing exactly how to take the rear hatch panel off. I need to try to fix my rear wiper.

I'm in the process of deep cleaning my interior and found a built-in cargo net behind my back seats. Nice surpries. I would like to know what you plan to use to try to revitalize the look of the interior plastic. The area around the back of the rear seats and along the back window and stuff. I have been using Forever Black on parts in my motor to make the plastic there look new again but that stuff in softer than the parts in the interior.

I may end up getting new floor mats in the car, mine are fadded a little, not to mention the drivers side mat being warn.

 

go out and buy some concrete degreaser yes you are reading correctly, (concrete degreaser) and a large home depot spray ( should be about 32 or 34 oz. bottle) use 4 oz. of degreaser and then fill the bottle the rest of the way with water..... you will also need a scrub brush and some towels...
spray and then scrub small areas at a time, do not leave on too long it will remove the die from the leather and the vinyl. It is great stuff just be careful... You can use any protectent you want, I recommend vinylex (blue bottle) for vinyl and plastic and lexol for leather (brown bottle) this is what I use at work all the time...

as for the rear cargo door cover it all just clips on there are no screws just clips (do be carefull the clips do break and can fall out) that is all I know about the rear door panel... I dont have the clips for mine so I just used some black trim screws for now....

 

What are you saying us the concrete degreaser for?

 

cleaning the plastic the leather and the carpet it will clean it all if you use it on carpet you will want to use a blower from an air compressor to blow it all out of the carpet... I am not responsible for damage to your car... I use this at work all the time...

 

well I got my cargo nets the ones out of the rear seat backs for 5 buck at a local yard they came out of a2002 v70xc. I also got my 3rd row seats and seat belts for it at the same yard for 45 buck and it was dark grey I now have to go back and pull the dash and center console and the trim panels from the car just to get the right color... it is darker than the what I pulled months ago and have already installed.... I have also bought the material to redo the headliner it was I think about 70 a yard it is tan suede so I wont have to paint any of the handles or anything.....

 

This might help.
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...212640#p212640

Are you sure it's a bad motor? I though mine had failed except I noticed it was still hot and had to unplug it. When I had time I removed it and found out the shaft between the motor and the arm had seized inside the aluminum housing.

 

No, I'm not sure. I haven't dug into it because I have a newer hatch from a V70 that I keep thinking about installing.

 

RSPI ... it's really easy to take them apart BEFORE they seize. I think I needed to use a torch (sparingly) on the rear one to take it apart. Over time water seeps in and corrodes the aluminum tight against the shaft. It might be a good idea either way to pull it apart and grease it now before it gives you any trouble.
Wish I would of taken pictures but I was doing it late at night and needed the car the next day for work.

 

Well, it doesn't work at all right now. My body guy is trying to talk me into leaving the old hatch on. The car needs touched up and he'd rather clean up the old hatch than paint a newer one. I like the brake lights in the newer hatch because they are led and the wiper probably works.

Is there a way to test it? I'm not really good with a volt meter but I do figure it out sooner or later.

 

If you turn it on and it doesn't work but you can touch the motor and it's warm/hot then it's probably good and should be unplugged until it's fixed. Mine started to move slowly and then froze up. When I went to check it out the motor was hot because the arm wasn't back to the parked position. Once it starts to move it will still have power to it until it gets back to it's "parked" position no matter the position of the wiper switch at the steering wheel.
To check with a multimeter you would need to put it into a continuity check and make sure there is continuity. You can also check to see that it does show a resistance. If the ohm meter shows infinite than you have an open and it's bad.

 

I'll try to unplug it in a day or two. All that stuff about the check you just mentioned read like congi to me. I just don't understand. I'll have to play with it or watch a youtube video till I understand the use of the meter.

 

I have finally made a choice as to what color I am going to use with the suede inserts for my car it is called sage I think that it will look good with the color I am going to paint the exterior.... I am also going to use black leather for the seats..... I want something different from every one else....

 

My inside top liner was falling off and shredding after about 10 years. Volvo wanted $1500. I took it to a local shop called "Johnny's Tops" or something like that. He did it for $125. And it is like new.