Ok so I just bought an entire tool setup, along with a new exhaust system, timing belt set, plug to distributor set, and fuel filter. Question is, some of the write ups I've seen are kinda sketchy. Can anyone give me an idea about the best write-ups for timing belt and tune up topics? I am going crazy trying to figure out what to go off of bc I really just don't know any better at this point. Thanks!!!

 

I just did the timing belt on mine. Do the water pump, timing belt idler and tensioner as well. This is probably your car's third belt, right? That is the suggested timeframe and you don't want to mess with this job again, because it sucks to do the belt and then remove the belt later for the water pump.

My water pump was starting to make a honking noise if I spun it by hand and the timing idlers were getting a little sandy-feeling.

There is a great writeup on matthews Volvo site in the 850 section for the belt and water pump. Oh yes, make sure you have something to turn the accessory belt tensioner. I believe a metal pipe cap has about the right size square head to fit in, then turn with vise grips.

 

Make sure you do not move the cam gears. There is a locking tool on IPD website but it has mixed reviews.Some people like them and other do not. Know how to line up your timing marks.

 

This is the best write-up I've found on timing belt:

http://volvospeed.com/Repair/timingbelt.php

 

that or do what i did and get yourself some n.a. cams to throw in there. There's no better way to make a simple job a lot harder!

 

The exhaust cam (the one in the back) likes to move. I maybe should have bought the cam gear tool but live and learn.

The crank mark is the worst to line up since it is so hard to see... There is a raised bump on the block at about 11:00 and a corresponding mark on the crank pulley between the timing belt and accessory belt pulleys.

 

1) Buy the cam gear tool for ease and peace of mind.

2) Buy a manual for immediate help along the way.

3) Take pix as you take apart so you'll see where all the parts and fasteners go back if you forget.

4) Take your time.

 

On the 850's there is no need for a cam lock tool. If it moves no big deal just put it back when putting the belt on.
After putting the belt on you should crank it over by hand 2 times and recheck the marks.

 

What we ended up doing (on the third go) was to make sure the crank was lined up, pull the belt up on the forward side to take up slack, then make sure the intake cam was already lined up with the mark, turn the intake cam forward to catch the belt's teeth, then turn it ccw back to the intake timing mark. We did the same thing for the exhaust. Then we spun the crank a few times and pulled the pin on the tensioner.

The first two times we kept getting a tooth off but the last time was by far the quickest and easiest.

 

Ok here's an example of how write ups can be sketchy. I want to replace the fuel filter and on one it says to open the gas cap to release pressure, and on another it says I have to purge the system from a T valve a few inches behind the filter. What's the actual procedure? Thanks

 

You can both, or neither; either way you're going to spill some gas.

Just make sure they're are no open flames in the vicinity (this include cigs too)!!

 

Cool thanks

 

Use the T valve or the valve on the fuel injector rail.
Opening the fuel cap will do nothing.

 

The rain has caused a delay so it looks like Wednesday it's gonna be fuel filter, plugs to rotor swap, and hopefully muffler swap. What's the deal with the muffler is there anything I should know?

 

So it turns out I didn't need a new exhaust after all! The heat shield above the muffler came loose and was sitting on top of the muffler lol. I just yanked it out, but I'm concerned the muffler will melt a hole through the floor. Should I be worried? The bolts to attach it are rusted to ****.

 

You should be fine without it.