A LITTLE HELP PLEASE. ABS code 141
#1
04-06-2008, 06:35 AM
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A LITTLE HELP PLEASE. ABS code 141
1994 Volvo 850 SE
Have just had the dash out to replace some bulbs and noticed that the serviceand ABS bulbs were missing.I have replaced the bulbs reset the service light but keep getting the ABS light up with a code 141. I have reset the ABS five times but still get the same code.
Is this a easy repair???
[IMG]local://upfiles/11117/915927219D254720AA81F800922D76A6.jpg[/IMG]
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04-06-2008, 07:40 AM
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04-06-2008, 12:38 PM
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RE: A LITTLE HELP PLEASE. ABS code 141
I have just found this info on the net, would this be good to go with?.
EBD switch[/b]
This is located on the master cylinder and is closed when the brake fluid pressure is low.
The switch is connected to the ECU via Yellow/Violet wire to ECU pin 7 & Violet/White to pin 5.
With the disconnections above, check the operation of the switch using an ohm meter should see 0 ohms normally and open circuit when the brake pedal is pressed reasonably hard.
Measure the resistance of each wire from the switch to the ECU connector as detailed above and the insulation resistance between the wires and to the car body.
If no faults are found then I would suspect the ECU, sometimes you will find cracked solder joints where the connector pins join to the PCB in the ECU so if you may be able to repiar this if you open up the ECU case, that of course is your choice/risk.[/b][/b]
EBD switch[/b]
This is located on the master cylinder and is closed when the brake fluid pressure is low.
The switch is connected to the ECU via Yellow/Violet wire to ECU pin 7 & Violet/White to pin 5.
With the disconnections above, check the operation of the switch using an ohm meter should see 0 ohms normally and open circuit when the brake pedal is pressed reasonably hard.
Measure the resistance of each wire from the switch to the ECU connector as detailed above and the insulation resistance between the wires and to the car body.
If no faults are found then I would suspect the ECU, sometimes you will find cracked solder joints where the connector pins join to the PCB in the ECU so if you may be able to repiar this if you open up the ECU case, that of course is your choice/risk.[/b][/b]
#6
04-06-2008, 01:19 PM
RE: A LITTLE HELP PLEASE. ABS code 141
That is the wrong switch. The pedal sensor you are looking for is actually on the brake booster cylinder, not the master cylinder. It should have a Violet/White wire and a White wire going to it. It isn't really a switch per se, it is a variable resistor that changes resistance as the brake pedal is depressed. The resistance readings should range from around 250 Ohms with the brake pedal not depressed, to around 700 Ohms with mid pedal and it will then jump to an open circuit with the pedal pushed as far as it will go.
The only trick when dealing with it is to relieve the vacuum in the booster before you try to remove it. Otherwise it will suck the0 ring into the booster. You can relieve the vacuum by depressing the brake pedal several times while the car is not running. The pedal should get very stiff once the vacuum is purged.
...Lee
The only trick when dealing with it is to relieve the vacuum in the booster before you try to remove it. Otherwise it will suck the0 ring into the booster. You can relieve the vacuum by depressing the brake pedal several times while the car is not running. The pedal should get very stiff once the vacuum is purged.
...Lee
#7
04-06-2008, 07:04 PM
RE: A LITTLE HELP PLEASE. ABS code 141
ORIGINAL: Ozark Lee
That is the wrong switch. The pedal sensor you are looking for is actually on the brake booster cylinder, not the master cylinder. It should have a Violet/White wire and a White wire going to it. It isn't really a switch per se, it is a variable resistor that changes resistance as the brake pedal is depressed. The resistance readings should range from around 250 Ohms with the brake pedal not depressed, to around 700 Ohms with mid pedal and it will then jump to an open circuit with the pedal pushed as far as it will go.
The only trick when dealing with it is to relieve the vacuum in the booster before you try to remove it. Otherwise it will suck the0 ring into the booster. You can relieve the vacuum by depressing the brake pedal several times while the car is not running. The pedal should get very stiff once the vacuum is purged.
...Lee
That is the wrong switch. The pedal sensor you are looking for is actually on the brake booster cylinder, not the master cylinder. It should have a Violet/White wire and a White wire going to it. It isn't really a switch per se, it is a variable resistor that changes resistance as the brake pedal is depressed. The resistance readings should range from around 250 Ohms with the brake pedal not depressed, to around 700 Ohms with mid pedal and it will then jump to an open circuit with the pedal pushed as far as it will go.
The only trick when dealing with it is to relieve the vacuum in the booster before you try to remove it. Otherwise it will suck the0 ring into the booster. You can relieve the vacuum by depressing the brake pedal several times while the car is not running. The pedal should get very stiff once the vacuum is purged.
...Lee
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05-10-2008, 11:24 AM
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