motor mount replacement
When I had some A/C work done on my 850 at the shop, they mentioned that the engine mounts needed replacement (the upper one has been replaced). I can't find any info on this job? How tough a job is it? I have the mounts, I just need to dig in...
I'll write it up for posterity when I do it...
John S.
I'll write it up for posterity when I do it...
John S.
You must mean the hydrolic mounts. They are a pain the motor has to be jacked up pretty high to get them out and back in.
I also took the cooling fan out last time I did mine.
If yours is a turbo the rear one is a Major pita very hard to get to the nut on top.
I also took the cooling fan out last time I did mine.
If yours is a turbo the rear one is a Major pita very hard to get to the nut on top.
I finally got around to replacing the mounts... It was certainly worth the effort. It makes it easier to shift smoothly (much less engine lash) and the care feels tighter overall.
To replace them... (at least this is how I did it)
Take the bolt out out of the back torque strut at the top of the motor (15mm and 13mm).
Remove the lower splash pan
Use a set of long extensions and a 15mm socket with a swivel to remove the top bolt of the front mount
use a 14mm socket to remove the lower bolt on the mount (accessed through hole in crossmember)
use a jack with a board (to spread the load) to tilt the front of the motor up just enough to get the mount out
you will likely have to tilt the engine more to get the new mount in. In my case the old mounts were a good 1/4" shorter
start the bolt on the bottom to maintain alignment of the mount and start lowering the engine while making sure that mount stud and the alignment tab are going into the bracket correctly
start the nut at the top of the motor mount
now for the rear
remove the upper 15mm nut (several extensions)
remove lower 14mm nut through crossmember
jack up the back of the engine (I jacked on the bell housing)
remove the motor mount over the front of the cross member
jack the engine up higher to get the new mount in
put the lower bolt in and upper nut
align mount properly and tighten the nut and bolt
use the jack to tilt the engine as you need to install the torque strut
fully tighten the tops and bottoms of both mounts
reinstall the splash shield.
congrats, you're done.
To replace them... (at least this is how I did it)
Take the bolt out out of the back torque strut at the top of the motor (15mm and 13mm).
Remove the lower splash pan
Use a set of long extensions and a 15mm socket with a swivel to remove the top bolt of the front mount
use a 14mm socket to remove the lower bolt on the mount (accessed through hole in crossmember)
use a jack with a board (to spread the load) to tilt the front of the motor up just enough to get the mount out
you will likely have to tilt the engine more to get the new mount in. In my case the old mounts were a good 1/4" shorter
start the bolt on the bottom to maintain alignment of the mount and start lowering the engine while making sure that mount stud and the alignment tab are going into the bracket correctly
start the nut at the top of the motor mount
now for the rear
remove the upper 15mm nut (several extensions)
remove lower 14mm nut through crossmember
jack up the back of the engine (I jacked on the bell housing)
remove the motor mount over the front of the cross member
jack the engine up higher to get the new mount in
put the lower bolt in and upper nut
align mount properly and tighten the nut and bolt
use the jack to tilt the engine as you need to install the torque strut
fully tighten the tops and bottoms of both mounts
reinstall the splash shield.
congrats, you're done.
When I had some A/C work done on my 850 at the shop, they mentioned that the engine mounts needed replacement (the upper one has been replaced). I can't find any info on this job? How tough a job is it? I have the mounts, I just need to dig in...
I'll write it up for posterity when I do it...
John S.
I'll write it up for posterity when I do it...
John S.
I have added my comments below in blue
I finally got around to replacing the mounts... It was certainly worth the effort. It makes it easier to shift smoothly (much less engine lash) and the care feels tighter overall.
To replace them... (at least this is how I did it)
Take the bolt out out of the back torque strut at the top of the motor (15mm and 13mm).
Remove the lower splash pan
Use a set of long extensions and a 15mm socket with a swivel to remove the top bolt of the front mount
use a 14mm socket to remove the lower bolt on the mount (accessed through hole in crossmember)
Removed lower torque strut on bottom of motor
Removed fan and shroud (so i could take out the mount)
use a jack with a board (to spread the load) to tilt the front of the motor up just enough to get the mount out
you will likely have to tilt the engine more to get the new mount in. In my case the old mounts were a good 1/4" shorter
I could not get the motor high enough to get the mount in so use a hammer an block of wood to tap bottom of mount into place, only one tap needed
start the bolt on the bottom to maintain alignment of the mount and start lowering the engine while making sure that mount stud and the alignment tab are going into the bracket correctly
start the nut at the top of the motor mount
now for the rear
remove the upper 15mm nut (several extensions)
remove lower 14mm nut through crossmember
jack up the back of the engine (I jacked on the bell housing)
remove the motor mount over the front of the cross member
jack the engine up higher to get the new mount in
Had to use the same hammer tap method as the front
put the lower bolt in and upper nut
align mount properly and tighten the nut and bolt
use the jack to tilt the engine as you need to install the torque strut
Install bottom torque strut
fully tighten the tops and bottoms of both mounts
reinstall the splash shield.
congrats, you're done.
To replace them... (at least this is how I did it)
Take the bolt out out of the back torque strut at the top of the motor (15mm and 13mm).
Remove the lower splash pan
Use a set of long extensions and a 15mm socket with a swivel to remove the top bolt of the front mount
use a 14mm socket to remove the lower bolt on the mount (accessed through hole in crossmember)
Removed lower torque strut on bottom of motor
Removed fan and shroud (so i could take out the mount)
use a jack with a board (to spread the load) to tilt the front of the motor up just enough to get the mount out
you will likely have to tilt the engine more to get the new mount in. In my case the old mounts were a good 1/4" shorter
I could not get the motor high enough to get the mount in so use a hammer an block of wood to tap bottom of mount into place, only one tap needed
start the bolt on the bottom to maintain alignment of the mount and start lowering the engine while making sure that mount stud and the alignment tab are going into the bracket correctly
start the nut at the top of the motor mount
now for the rear
remove the upper 15mm nut (several extensions)
remove lower 14mm nut through crossmember
jack up the back of the engine (I jacked on the bell housing)
remove the motor mount over the front of the cross member
jack the engine up higher to get the new mount in
Had to use the same hammer tap method as the front
put the lower bolt in and upper nut
align mount properly and tighten the nut and bolt
use the jack to tilt the engine as you need to install the torque strut
Install bottom torque strut
fully tighten the tops and bottoms of both mounts
reinstall the splash shield.
congrats, you're done.
I searched high and wide for posts about replacing the hydraulic mounts and got to feeling pretty comfortable about tackling this job in my garage. I hate to admit defeat, but things did not go well for me. I loosened all the mounts, jacked the engine, got the front hydraulic mount replaced, and found that I could not get the rear one out for lack of clearance. Jacked the engine a bit more and was able to use a block to pound the mount out. When trying to replace it, I found that the engine had shifted a little forward and none of the mounts lined up any more. Lowering, raising, hammering, prying, crying, did nothing to get the engine back in alignment. I simply didn't have the ability to move the engine back into alignment. On top of that, the left CV axle became unseated and the tranny started leaking (VADIS actually notes that lifting the engine too high will damage this axle). Sooo...I had to call for a tow. Mechanic was able to put eveything back together and the only damage I did was bend the shift linkage a little. I pride myself on being able to a lot on my own, but this was a huge piece of humble pie to choke down.
When replacing the front engine mount, I loosened the top and bottom bolts, but even after jacking up the engine, I couldn't get it free, so I removed the mounting bracket itself (top of mount, bolted to engine). However, when I went to install the new mount, which is noticeably taller, I couldn't get the mounting bracket bolts to line up with the holes: the holes in the bracket were probably half an inch higher than the holes in the engine. I tried jacking up the engine further, but the crossmember on which the mount sits rose along with the engine. I ended up reinstalling the original mount. I might try loosening the "right" engine mount first, and maybe the upper and lower torque mounts, and see if that helps. Any advice would be appreciated.
In case it makes a difference, I had the car up on ramps, not suspended on jacks.
In case it makes a difference, I had the car up on ramps, not suspended on jacks.
I don't know how you could do that on ramps. Try this:
Motor mount, right side, Volvo S70, replacement instructions
Motor mount, right side, Volvo S70, replacement instructions
2005 XC70 AWD U.S.
There is a good video on motor mount replacement on the FCP euro Site.
at
BUT DO NOT BE DECIEVED......IT IS NOT AS EASY AS IT LOOKS IN THIS VIDEO.
REPLACING THE MAIN (CONE SHAPED) BOTTOM FRONT AND REAR MOUNTS IS A BEAR ON AN AWD XC70!
- lots of sub assemblies need to be removed to get them in and out, and the engine needs to be jacked up (at least 4") and supported. and getting the bolts on off is a exercise in futility.
the top, side and torque mounts are easy though.....
What I have learned so far....
Top, side and torque mount all have to come off to replace the bottom mounts.
you will need a long rachet extension for the bottom mounts.
air box may want to be un-bolted first.
check the RWD axle prior to jacking up engine.
A good set of pry bars will make your life easier.
There is a good video on motor mount replacement on the FCP euro Site.
at
BUT DO NOT BE DECIEVED......IT IS NOT AS EASY AS IT LOOKS IN THIS VIDEO.
REPLACING THE MAIN (CONE SHAPED) BOTTOM FRONT AND REAR MOUNTS IS A BEAR ON AN AWD XC70!
- lots of sub assemblies need to be removed to get them in and out, and the engine needs to be jacked up (at least 4") and supported. and getting the bolts on off is a exercise in futility.
the top, side and torque mounts are easy though.....
What I have learned so far....
Top, side and torque mount all have to come off to replace the bottom mounts.
you will need a long rachet extension for the bottom mounts.
air box may want to be un-bolted first.
check the RWD axle prior to jacking up engine.
A good set of pry bars will make your life easier.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tuner4life
Volvo C70
2
Apr 27, 2012 06:41 PM
rspi
Volvo S70
1
Dec 25, 2010 02:38 PM




