Today i put in a k&n high flow filter and larger air intake hose, i connected the little hose thats by the air intake three hoses go in to a silver thing took the one coming from the turbo disconnected it from the silver thing and connected it to intake niple the turbo spools up past the charts and quick!! i think theres at least 50 more HP. is this bad for my turbo? before the turbo gauge wouldent go all the way untill it shifts.

 

You might be overboosting.
If you are be careful you might break something.

 

mkae hoses on boost solenoid are in the correct spot there's a yellow blue and red marked small hoses and they have to be in the proper spot, check the vacuum diagram. make sure it is pl;ugged inj.

-Mike

 

Why do people do this?

They have no idea of what they are doing and end up disconnecting the wastegate.

Sure, running a turbo out-of-control is fun --

except that your pistons are taking a beating from not enough fuel in air/flow mixture
except that your cylinder head is melting from incorrect ignition timing
except that the bearings in your turbo are over-spinning from generating boost out of its range

There is no way that ECU can manage ignition timing and fuel mixture with out-of-control boost. You will crack a piston ring -- if your lucky -- or grenade a piston/bend a connecting rod within the month.

Sell that nice 850R to someone who is willing to spend money on taking care of it.

Then, take that money and purchase a turbo kit for some pile of junk Honda -- and blow it up for your enjoyment.

 

2nd that

 

+3
Be careful... Do the research first.

 

What is fuel air flow mixture, what is ignition timing, what is............. these are a lot of things some people don't know, they'll learn somehow

I dissagree, i firmly believe in "Live and Learn" & "do so at your own risk"

obviously this guy made a muistake, he installed a new filter, and messed with his boost control, he obviously does not know the effects of playing with such stuff. If it breaks/blows up who cares, other than him of course. Ya know everyone starts from somewhere and some times people try things with out knowing exactly what they're doing, there are different ways to learn stuff. Not all people have the same knowledge of cars and engines and such as some of the people who visit this board.

Outblast, you changet the integral operating system of the intake system of your car, you can not keep it the way it is. you did a good thing by postinfg what you did here and now you know you have to make changes if you would like to keep the motor in that volvo running.


I don't know if that is quite the recommended task for someone who changed a airfilter and messed up a few vacuum hoses, and obviously is not that experienced with mechanical operations.


Mike

 

There are several of other makes and models of cars with turbo'ed engines -- Plymouth Neon and PT Cruiser come to mind. There are tens of thousands of such cars in existance. "Live and Learn" and/or experiment with one of those piles of junk. Our 850-R was a $40,000 car when sold new at the dealership. There are less than 4,000 model year 1995, 96, and 97 850-T5R/R(s) left in existance here in the U.S. Even 850-Turbo/T5(s) are relatively rare when you sit down and think about it.

 

just a question. If the fuel/air ratio was to lean like your saying wouldent the engine be running hot when in fact its not running any hoter than before and i can controll the level of boost the the gas pedal.

 

To those that are bashing this guy, telling him to sell his car and buy a Honda, etc., what do you care? Even though his 850R is a limited edition car, it's HIS car and he can do with it as he chooses. The fact it was a $40,000 car when it was new has NOTHING to do with him owning the car now. If he blows it up, he can either build an engine, buy a new engine, or sell the car with it's existing blown engine to someone else to repair it. Hell, people buy BRAND NEW BMW M3s and turbo those, blowing the engine, etc. It's just a car....it's repairable.

 

When he says running 'hot', he means that you are losing the lubricating properties of the oil as they are being broken down by the overboost. It has nothing to do with the temperature guage in the car. In order to run higher boost, you need to ensure you have good fuel management and good exhaust flow. Without those two things, the boost will just degrade your engine.

I do agree with the poster above. This is Outblast's car and he can do with it as he sees fit. I just think people on the board should give him sound advice and let him make a decision, for better or worse - AB

 

Cars, such as ours -- quality built with low-production numbers -- should not be used for experimental purposes by novices. It is all-too-common for cars with perfect paint and interiors to wind up in salvage yards -- usually with a blown head-gasket or cracked head, where owner didn't wish to go thru the hassle of either repairing or selling the car.

This 850-R wagon is about to have the same fate -- within the year. Why?? Because who in their right mind believes that they can control the boost with their gas pedal?

And NO!!! I am not talking about oil being too hot -- losing its lubricating properties. I am talking about the simple understanding of the basics of how a turbo-charged engine works.

First of all, your engine coolant temp sensor only tells you the temperature of the coolant flowing thru cooling passages. It does not tell you the temperature of exhaust gases leaving the combusion chamber.

OK, to clarify what I said earlier -- the negative effects of running a turbo with the wastegate disconnected.

1) except that your pistons are taking a beating from not enough fuel in air/flow mixture

Air/Fuel mixture is the proper balance of fuel being added to air entering the combusion chamber. It is better to be "too rich" because it cools the combusion chamber. "too lean" and the air/fuel mixture will start to explode before the spark plug ignites it. Running lean will put tiny little pot-holes in the tops of the pistons. This can occur before you hear any pinging.

This is occuring on his 850_R because his stock fuel system is not able to keep up with excessive amounts of boost.

This is why people who know what they are doing purchase wide-band O2 sensors and metering systems.

2) except that your cylinder head is melting from incorrect ignition timing

ignition spark timing advances when you let your foot off of the throttle pedal
ignition spark timing advances, corresponding to increases in engine rpms
ignition spark timing retards, corresponding to increase in boost psi

Ignition timing too advanced and engine combusion chamber temperatures will be too hot -- causing cylinder head to fatigue and crack over time.

This is occuring on his 850_R because his ECU has no idea what level of boost he is running -- failing to retard igntion spark timing.

Again, Engine Coolant Temperature sensor will say everything is fine. This is why people who know what they are doing purchase Exhaust Gas Temperature sensors and gauges.

3) except that the bearings in your turbo are over-spinning from generating boost out of its range

Turbos are designed to run at certain rpms. I have seen the bearings of several TD05H-12A turbos runnning over 15 psi wear out after 4-6 months.

This is occuring on his 850_R because his wastegate is disconnected and his turbo is spinning out-of-control.

If a person truly believes that they can control the boost with their gas pedal, then this 850_R wagon will be resting in his local friendly neighborhood salvage yard within the year. Sell the car while you can and purchase a 1993-1994 Mitsubishi Turbo Eclipse. Those engines will start to crank-walk before you have the chance to blow it up.

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good post, maybe he'll read that and learn a thing or 2

 

Hello Mr. Outblast,

Greetings from Chicagoland.

It is indeed fun to get more power from the engine, but if you want to keep your car going longer, I would follow some people's advice on this board.

If you hear pinging/knocking coming from the engine, let off your foot from the gas pedal. This indicates the engine is experiencing too much load, and mechanical damage will result if it lasts long enough (as short as a few seconds with your current setup).

As many experts have already stated, the engine is no longer running as it was designed to. If I were you, I would probably switch everything back to where they were (since I don't have a few thousand $ for an engine repair). In some countries, there are vendors that sell tuned/modified ECU's, which have modified fuel schedule, ignition timing, etc... If you live in the U.S., there might be such vendors in California but I'm not sure.

I drive my 850 Turbo as it is, and never really needed extra boost, as the factory turbo provides enough boost for the kind of driving I do. When I need it most is when I merge into a freeway. The boost needle doesn't really reach the upper-end at full throttle, but it provides enough punch to beat the traffic and lets me merge into 65mph (posted) freeway safely (except when there is an idiot in front of me who is afraid or lazy to speed up).

Anyway, I wish you luck with your engine. Make sure to use high-quality oil & Mann/Volvo oil filter. I would stay away from 5W-30 for turbo-charged engine. (I'm currently running on Valvoline synthetic blend 10W-30).

Regards,


JPN

 

Great info, thanks. so i guess larger fuel injectors are out of the question, i was goiong to do that next. Your saying this car will last a year like this. sounds like a long time. so mybe three months down the road i will sell it, never know. so any ways thanks for the info i learned quite a bit.

 

Optimum air/fuel ratio is what you want. To achieve that you need to start with aftermarket boost and wideband air/fuel gauges.

Too little fuel -- yields hot exhaust gas temps. And over time, the accumulated repeated effect of excessively hot combustion temps will damage pistons and cylinder head.

Too much fuel -- and unburnt fuel will leak down past piston rings, into oil pan, and dilute oil. Diluted oil will cause premature wear on turbo and rod bearings.

More fuel does not equate to more horsepower. Being slightly rich, means horsepower left on the table. Optimum air/fuel ratio equates to desired horsepower and cooler exhaust gas temps.

Injector size must correspond to programming of ECU. If injector size and ECU programming are mis-matched, the engine will not be able to maintain a steady rpm. You set your throttle for 45 mph and the engine will surge -- speeding up to 47 mph, slowing down to 43 mph . The ECU is always trying to over-compensate due to incorrect injector size.

#1 -- Reconnect vacuum/boost hoses to wastegate

#2 -- Purchase aftermarket boost and wideband air/fuel gauges

#3 -- The first upgrade to fuel system is aftermarket fuel pump