1996 volvo 850 turbo 150k

Hi All, I need some help trying to figure this out.

What is happening is that I have to prime and pump the gas pedal to get the car to start. After I keep doing this repeatedly it seems to warm up and then will hold idle and I can even drive it. Trying to trouble shoot this problem.

So far I have cleaned the IAC and throttle body.

A little back story is that I stepped on it recently and blew out the intercooler hose up front. I ducked taped that and car ran again, and I have since replaced it. But I am noticing that an issue too is that the car won't boost. I have a feeling that I blew out the CBV on the turbo as well.

I have ran a compression test twice. The first time on a cold motor and got:
170, 165, 170, 170, and 160.
Second time was with a warm motor:
165, 157, 155, 160, 153.

I do notice that the IAC buzzes after I turn the car off. Maybe it needs to be replaced and not just cleaned? The only codes that I am getting is for a misfire multiple cylinders.

Is there any chance that if that a turbo part blew out that it would cause a vac leak that is making the car idle funny (hard to start) or are these two separate problems? Im kinda thinking about as a next step to put in a junk yard IAC in there and seeing if that fixes my starting issue.

 

Only thing pumping the gas pedal will do is to activate clear flood mode, aka, shut the injectors off.

 

I'm not holding the pedal down to the floor. That may turn off the injectors. Pumping it is how I am getting it to start so it wouldnt make sense that the injectors are being Turned off. I think I am going to figure out how to test fuel pressure. But if anyone could answer my question about the turbo affecting idle that would be appreciated. Thanks

 

No. But a loose hose clamp or torn hose can. Check EVERYTHING for a vacuum leak.

 

That hose is exactly what mine did. I was able to drive the car about another mile. And a duck tape job got me the rest of the way home.

 

You clearly have a hole in the intlet plumbing. The MAF sensors is really far away from the engine, and if there are leaks, the MAF will be wrong. It doesn't take much of an error to prevent idling. When you have the throttle open, the airflow is larger, so the errors caused by the leak(s) are relatively smaller, and it'll run. This is a pretty common problem.


The hoses seem to deteriorate over time, so you may have more leaks than just one. The one right at the throttle has that little sidearm on it, and that is another good one to inspect.


Just to be super clear you may have a vacuum leak, but that is not what I am talking about. I am talking about the plumbing between the MAF and the throttle.

 

Thank you for the explanation and advice I am going to recheck that plumbing.

 

Can you bring the car somewhere for a smoke test and check for vacuum leaks?

 

Still haven't checked my plumbing yet. I have been driving my old farm truck. If I don't see somethong obvious I am going to see if harbor freight sells a smoke machine. I have tried propane in past no luck.