Volvo 850 Made from 1993 to 1997, this Volvo line was available in both a wagon and a sedan, both with were graced with several trim levels.

New member with controversial questions

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Old Apr 29, 2021 | 01:49 AM
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—CHI—'s Avatar
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From: Ohio
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Howdy y’all! I’m Dylan,and before I get started with my questions,I’d like to make it known I absolutely love the 850s and if my car had a title,I probably wouldn’t be on here lol. Also,please don’t get too angry with me for what you’re about to read..

so as stated,my 93 850 doesn’t have a title and no way to get it back. I picked it up running and driving(after rewiring the fuel pump) with no other issues,the body is solid,interior was decent and everything worked

but.. I plan to derby the car...

I’m not sure if anyone on here has ever ran one in a derby before but I figured I’d ask anyway because I have no idea what to do with this thing to get it ready for a stock class. What are the bare minimum things I need to keep the car running? Can I delete the separate computers under the hood and just use the engine one? Do the 5cyls run good hot,or is there a trick to make them think they’re running cold like wiring in another coolant temp sensor and leaving it hang on the dash? Is there a way to swap the front hubs to have actual wheel studs instead of using the lug bolts?

I promise guys,if I could’ve saved it I wouldve. But after seeing how solid they are I had to give it a shot. I hope this post doesn’t get me shunned from the forum or **** half of you off lol

any info would be greatly appreciated though if you have it,thanks everyone! Hope you have a good day!
 
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Old Apr 29, 2021 | 01:54 AM
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Also,what fuel pressure do I need to make it run? Going for an in-line pump and don’t know what to get
 
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Old May 6, 2021 | 03:28 PM
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They use a fuel pressure regulator that runs at 43.5 psi above manifold pressure.

I don't suppose they are very good at being hot, to be honest. They certainly don't have that reputation. The reputation, however, is partly due to a "lying" temperature gauge that was designed to stop nutty customers from coming into the dealer and saying "yesterday my temperature gauge pointed at 'O' in Normal and today it's pointing at 'M'" if you know what I mean. Gauge fakery caught on with other manufacturers as well.

So they're not as bad as they seem. The head gasket will let go when they get hot, so it not be a bad idea to torque it, but that's a lot of work. There's not room to install studs.
 

Last edited by firebirdparts; May 6, 2021 at 03:31 PM.
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