850 GLT. 245k

I ve posted this problem on the general forum but I thought I can hear from more of you. Just replaced timing belt but know it won't start. Im now convinced I moved the cams way out of there proper positions. I may have rotated the exhaust cam 360 clockwise. I went back and rotated the crank clockwise till it's marks are aligned then aligned the cam marks to the belt cover Can some tell me how to staighten this out. Please !

 

If you want help, you need to be willing to supply additional info when asked. If you moved the cams 360 degrees with the belt off, then moved the crank 360 degrees with the belt off, your cams are 180 degrees off, as I stated in your other post. You more than likely damaged the valves.

 

Thanks. I had thought I'd given as much information as I am capable of giving. I'm looking for a solution, a process to set the cams back in order. So, do you or don't you know how to reset the cams back to spec.

 

Did you or did you not rotate the engine as I have asked about twice already? In order to help, we need to know exactly what you did. If you rotated the engine as I have asked about twice but you never confirmed, then you need to line up the cams and then take the belt off and rotate the crank all the way around one time.

Then, cross your fingers, say a prayer, do a voo-doo ritual and anything else you can think of, because you are likely going to need to pull the head.

 

Thank you. I removed the belt, aligned the cams as per the belt cover markings and will rotate the crank one revolution. It would be helpful if you remind yourself that many of us on this forum are looking for help, not a lecture. I'm sure you know your stuff, but I don't need to be subjected to your attitude. If you want to be of help, offer your expertise with out your attitude of superiority. Just an FYI. I use many forums when I need help, particularly BMW, and MG. All are more than willing to help with the attitude you've displayed here

 

I understand that, but when you post vague information and then don't answer follow up questions, repeatedly, it makes it difficult to help you. You STILL haven't explained exactly what you did, so I'm not even sure this would work if you somehow didn't smash all the valves. You are getting free help. Take it or leave it. I don't need to sugar coat it. Good luck.

 

Its not a lecture, its telling you the correct way of going about this. No one has to help, people do it to be nice. Remember that.

 

When you align all three marks . intake camshaft , exhaust camshaft & crankshaft with their marks. Everything should be good , then every other c/shaft revolution should cause them to realign . Use a ratchet and socket to check this .
Does this happen ?

 

Ok,I removed the belt and set the cam to the marks. The crank rotated easily yesterday but won't budge this morning. Possibly the below freezing temps. I'll try again when the temps rise a bit.

Do I rotate the crank (currently the crank marks are aligned) before I reattach the belt, or after? Thanks.

 

Why do you refuse to specify exactly how many times you rotated them with the belt off initially when doing the belt?

And now you pulled the belt off without setting the cams first? Bad idea.

 

Understand the Volvo engine is an INTERFERENCE engine and you will hit and bend valves if you rotate the crank or cams independently of each other.

Confirm your timing marks:






Once done, slowly rotate the engine a few rotations to make sure you are not hitting any valves. From there the engine timing is done and you need to look at other possibilities.

 

Unless he set the marks, pulled the belt. Then rotated the cams 360 degrees and the crank 360 degrees. But he refuses to confirm this. Sounds like what he did if you check out his other post.

 

For the most part, those on these volvo forums are nice but a few seem to impatient and intolerant. I've done my best to offer as much information as possible yet the response(s) act like I'm being difficult. Do you or this other fellow think I'm trying to test you or keep my information a secret. Hardly. If you or anyone else is unable to solve a problem please do not go to extreme situation of bent valves. Thats a blind conclusion.

 

I asked you, very specifically, if you rotated the engine and cams independently, one turn each. You STILL have not answered that. Without knowing what position the engine is in, I cannot help you get it in the correct position.

Bent valves is not a blind conclusion. It is an interference motor.

I'm done. Good luck.

 

First, I simply cant recall how many times I rotated the cams. Secondly,I did set the cams to the timing marks. Why do YOU refuse to tell me how to reset the timing. Do you know? Lets pretend the belt broke and the cams are out of sync. How would you reset the timing.Simple question.

 

The numbers are in and they ain't good. I "borrowed" a gauge from Autozone.
I was having troubles earlier with smoking after idling for more then a few seconds. it cleared up after driving for a few minutes

Here's the numbers,
Cylinder #1 = 5
Cylinder # 2 = 110
Cylinder#3 = 30 also wet w/ water
Cylinder #4 = 60 also wet w/ water
Cylinder #5 = 70

It's evident that the compression is to low, and there's a head gasket issue.

This 850 has over 280k miles. The question is to repair or not? Can anyone estimate the shop cost to rebuild the head. Is it worth it. I hate to let this old friend go.

 

If the belt broke, I would tell you the same thing I already told you: you bent valves and need to pull the head.

Since you don't know if the timing is correct, those compression numbers may not be correct. But it doesn't matter, you bent the valves.

If you want to waste your time and set the timing, buy the cam and crank locking tools. Then you'll see that, once again, you vent the valves.

 

Not sure if my last post took. I "borrowed" a pressure gauge from Autozone and the results are not encouraging. A side note. When idling at a traffic light it will produce grey smoke that will dissipate when driven a few miles. Also, sudden stops will cause the engine to nearly stall. The plugs indicate a head gasket leak. I hate to loose such a good friend but should this 850 be saved with 280K miles? Average cost of of valve job?

Cylinder 1 = less than 10
Cylinder 2 = 110
Cylinder 3 = 30 wet with gas and water
Cylinder 4 = 60 wet with gas and water
Cylinder 5 = 70

 

Your last post indicates the car is running ? Is this true ?
Everyone has responded as true as they possibly can to you. I understand you ARE desperate , but you were not willing to answer ?s about camshaft alignment and number of rotations .
When you remove a timing belt you must first align ALL the marks before removing the belt , have all the necessary tools , literature and knowledge before starting any "task" .
Can you tell us now the status of the vehicle so we can decide advice on what to give next ?
Remember , we are not psychics , mediums or seers .

 

Why does everyone conclude that I'm unwilling to give the information you ask for. I've said several times that at this point I've lost track of the rotations. No mind reading on your part, I've just lost track. As for you assumptions on preparing for this job, I've replaced the belt on this car three times with out incident. I've successfully maintained the car myself, for the last 110k miles, as well as my 3 BMWs and my MGB. I simply got myself into an unintended problem. Again, I aligned all the marks before removing the old belt I noticed when replacing it that cam marks had moved. I honestly can't recall how much or how far I rotated them.

No, the engine is not running. The instructions for the pressure gauge was to remove all the plugs and turn the key for several revolutions.

The status is this, the belt is back on, the three timing marks are aligned, and it will not start.