Volvo 850 Made from 1993 to 1997, this Volvo line was available in both a wagon and a sedan, both with were graced with several trim levels.

New Timing Belt won't go on

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Old Jul 22, 2013 | 04:53 PM
  #41  
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I did NOT know that the crank mark indicates a SAFE spot. I will go to the junk yard tomorrow and give that a try, line it up, remove the belt, then try to turn both cams 360 degrees. (I'm so excited).
 
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Old Jul 22, 2013 | 04:57 PM
  #42  
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See the TINY notch in the valley grove.

 
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Old Jul 22, 2013 | 07:52 PM
  #43  
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Guys,

This time I went out with one of those high intensity work lights and had it shining brightly pointed on the crank. Found the tiniest of a divot on the outside tooth in the valley. No other place on the crank had such a dinky mark. Adjusted my cam sprockets to line up with the mark on the timing cover. Installed belt, checked cam marks, pulled the pin on the tensioner and rotated the engine twice and no interference.

Think I am all good. Thanks so much to everyone who contributed.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2013 | 08:28 PM
  #44  
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Hurrah!!! Glad you figured that out.

I'm still going to try the crank mark and turn the cams deal in the morning at the local Pick-N-Pull.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2013 | 11:19 PM
  #45  
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Yes I am very happy.

Went and also got my new IPD Stainless exhaust system installed. Just need to install the O2 sensors and the xross brace and then snug it all down.

Big problem left is removing the axle nuts so I can swap out my axles. Won't budge. Been soaking daily with liquid wrench, etc. Tomorrow I will apply heat and see what happens.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2013 | 11:30 PM
  #46  
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I had to use a 3/4 socket with breaker bar and a piece of fence post to get mine to come loose. It's amazing what 4 1/2 ft of leverage gets you.

By the way, are the tabs tapped out yet? that could be part of your issue.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2013 | 07:56 AM
  #47  
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I use a 4 foot plumbing pipe that I purchased. don't remember the cost but whatever it was, it was worth it. Just make sure it fits over your breaker bar. I tried a 3 foot bar but after about a year of fighting with things I got the 4 foot one and it made a big difference.

Some of those axle nuts don't have the tab but I did notice that on the last axle I looked at.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2013 | 07:58 AM
  #48  
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Go to 4 minutes here:
 
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Old Jul 23, 2013 | 08:41 AM
  #49  
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I blocked the wheel from turning with a big screwdriver which I inserted in the venting holes of the brake disk. It prevented the wheel from turning when I losened the big nut on the axle. The carrier for the brake caliper musst still be installed of course
 
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Old Jul 23, 2013 | 08:47 AM
  #50  
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That's what I do at the junk yards.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2013 | 08:52 AM
  #51  
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ibified,
I have the same looking nuts that is shown in Roberts video. He didn't lift any tab. In the past when I see a nut like this I usually see a cotter pin too. Nope not here.

Robert,
Saw the same thing with a 5' pipe on Matthews site. Yep, my trusty 2' iron pipe that I slip over my 1/2 drive finally failed me. Guess might have to go to Home Depot and buy myself a 5' section of pipe.

Too bad I didn't look this step up at the very beginning. Car is already elevated and not really wanting to drop to the ground. Might have to. See what happens.

Was going to heat the nut tonight and try that. I do have my neighbors 3/4 drive.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2013 | 10:27 AM
  #52  
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Default 300,000 miles?

Just curious, as our 95 850 is closing in on 250,000 miles. Does anyone here on the forum have one that has 300,000 miles or over?
 
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Old Jul 23, 2013 | 10:42 AM
  #53  
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I know of couple here in Europe with over 500.000 km (both are TDI). I drove 1 month ago in an 960 with the 3l engine which had over 1 million km with the original engine!
 
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Old Jul 24, 2013 | 08:33 AM
  #54  
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Well, wanted to report that those of you who suggest the 5' breaker bar was the answer for breaking loose those axle nuts.

Thanks
 
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