2000 s80 new timing belt won't go on.
#1
2000 s80 new timing belt won't go on.
Hi all,
I've having a very hard time getting the new timing belt to go back on. I read the instructions on here and everything was smooth, except for getting the new belt on.
Someone said: Crank, Idler Pulley, Front Cam Pulley, Rear Cam Pulley, Water pump Pulley, Tensioner. But I just can't stretch the belt enough for it to come over the tensioner.
Someone also suggested: do the Rear Cam Pulley last. But again, not enough slack on the new belt to stretch over the pulley.
As for the tensioner, I have the 6MM point at 10 O'Clock. There doesn't seem to be anymore movement for the new belt to coming over it.
Please advise!!!! I would like to put it back together tomorrow.
Question: With your experience, what's the best way for me to install the new belt? How did you get yours on?
I've having a very hard time getting the new timing belt to go back on. I read the instructions on here and everything was smooth, except for getting the new belt on.
Someone said: Crank, Idler Pulley, Front Cam Pulley, Rear Cam Pulley, Water pump Pulley, Tensioner. But I just can't stretch the belt enough for it to come over the tensioner.
Someone also suggested: do the Rear Cam Pulley last. But again, not enough slack on the new belt to stretch over the pulley.
As for the tensioner, I have the 6MM point at 10 O'Clock. There doesn't seem to be anymore movement for the new belt to coming over it.
Please advise!!!! I would like to put it back together tomorrow.
Question: With your experience, what's the best way for me to install the new belt? How did you get yours on?
#2
Reading through all the searches, I got it done as follow.
Crank, Idler, Front Cam, Rear Cam, Water Pump, Tensioner. However, I tied the tensioner lever to the right post of the tensioner with a small plastic tie-zip (hard to explain, but once you have the tensioner, you will know what I'm talking about.), this plus having the 6mm hex hole point at 10'clock position will give you the maximun un-tensiton slack position. In addition, put on the tensioner with the belt on as the same time. This was the only way it could had gone on for me. There just wasn't enough slack to get it on with the tensioner already installed. Be careful to make sure the bolt is screwed in straight and not slanted (it will mess up the thread on the aluminum block.) Once a got some turns on the bolt, I make sure to move the U post into the upright position. You'll know what I'm talking about when you do it. Once the belt is in place, I cut the plastic zip-tie.
Other tips when installing the new timing belt: use something to shim under the crank pulley to hold up the belt so it won't slip off the teeth. I also shim between the belt and the plastic housing on the left side of the Rear Cam, this help keep the belt down so the Cam Gears won't run on you while you working below.
Overall, pulling on the new timing belt was the hardest part of the job. So make sure to print this out and refer to it when your belt seems like it's too short. Good Luck!
Crank, Idler, Front Cam, Rear Cam, Water Pump, Tensioner. However, I tied the tensioner lever to the right post of the tensioner with a small plastic tie-zip (hard to explain, but once you have the tensioner, you will know what I'm talking about.), this plus having the 6mm hex hole point at 10'clock position will give you the maximun un-tensiton slack position. In addition, put on the tensioner with the belt on as the same time. This was the only way it could had gone on for me. There just wasn't enough slack to get it on with the tensioner already installed. Be careful to make sure the bolt is screwed in straight and not slanted (it will mess up the thread on the aluminum block.) Once a got some turns on the bolt, I make sure to move the U post into the upright position. You'll know what I'm talking about when you do it. Once the belt is in place, I cut the plastic zip-tie.
Other tips when installing the new timing belt: use something to shim under the crank pulley to hold up the belt so it won't slip off the teeth. I also shim between the belt and the plastic housing on the left side of the Rear Cam, this help keep the belt down so the Cam Gears won't run on you while you working below.
Overall, pulling on the new timing belt was the hardest part of the job. So make sure to print this out and refer to it when your belt seems like it's too short. Good Luck!
#4
Four things I would check.
1] Double check the length of the timing belt vs. the old one.
2] If you replaced the water pump, double check the pulley diameter with the one on the original water pump.
3] Make sure the tensioner mounting bracket is properly vertical and that the round aluminum peg on the engine casting is between the two "tangs" on the bracket.
4] Make sure the belt is tight between the crank pulley and the intake cam pulley and properly seated on the crank pulley teeth. Then, per go2sharks, wedge something under the crank pulley to hold the belt in place.
1] Double check the length of the timing belt vs. the old one.
2] If you replaced the water pump, double check the pulley diameter with the one on the original water pump.
3] Make sure the tensioner mounting bracket is properly vertical and that the round aluminum peg on the engine casting is between the two "tangs" on the bracket.
4] Make sure the belt is tight between the crank pulley and the intake cam pulley and properly seated on the crank pulley teeth. Then, per go2sharks, wedge something under the crank pulley to hold the belt in place.
Last edited by MyBigS80; 06-13-2011 at 02:38 PM.
#6
Make sure that the belt is sitting in the gear teeth on the crank, and then pull tight up to the intake cam (make sure that you don't move the adjustable cam gear), then across to the exhaust cam, then around the water pump.
To engage the timing belt on the tensioner, I've always had to move the tensioner indicator manually to get "just" enough slack to slide on the belt. Works every time.
To engage the timing belt on the tensioner, I've always had to move the tensioner indicator manually to get "just" enough slack to slide on the belt. Works every time.
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