New Volvo Owner, Lots of Questions!
Iam leaning towards the Hella, it is the middle of the line and i can get it local but for $150
the best price I foun on line is $130
ehhhhhhh i got to just pick one![>:]
the best price I foun on line is $130ehhhhhhh i got to just pick one![>:]
^Either way, you really can't go wrong.
It's really a your choice as to which.
If you want to spend 50 bucks more and you'll get a later LPH pump or if you save 50 bucks and get a higher LPH pump.
If you have plans to really modify your car, you might want to go for the 255lph just because it's easier for the future. That being said, you don't need to have plans to modify to get a 255 lph.
Long story short, pick one!

It's really a your choice as to which.
If you want to spend 50 bucks more and you'll get a later LPH pump or if you save 50 bucks and get a higher LPH pump.
If you have plans to really modify your car, you might want to go for the 255lph just because it's easier for the future. That being said, you don't need to have plans to modify to get a 255 lph.
Long story short, pick one!


Great to hear.
You might want to just do the prep work (removing the matting and all that) right now, since the pumps probably going to arrive Monday (Saturday if you're lucky (I don't know where you're located)).
Make sure you get a solder and the solder stuff. Otherwise, it's just basic tools. If you by any chance can find a pronged garden tool, that works very well to get the connecters off of the pump itself.
A screw driver works to pry them off, but it can be a PITA since it's hard to get leverage.
You might want to just do the prep work (removing the matting and all that) right now, since the pumps probably going to arrive Monday (Saturday if you're lucky (I don't know where you're located)).
Make sure you get a solder and the solder stuff. Otherwise, it's just basic tools. If you by any chance can find a pronged garden tool, that works very well to get the connecters off of the pump itself.
A screw driver works to pry them off, but it can be a PITA since it's hard to get leverage.
I kind of wanted to see people trying different stuff and report us[8D]. But hey, whatever makes you happy.
RedTurbo'll be your mentor for this procedure. Good luck but safety first.
Regards,
JPN
RedTurbo'll be your mentor for this procedure. Good luck but safety first.
Regards,
JPN
well some good news, THE CAR IS RUNNING! i replaced the fuel pump and the car fired the first time.
but now i got a new problem
the engine is ticking rather loudly, i dont know what to do....
I dont even know where to start with this one, i love this car already, but shes killing me....
please help
thanks as always guys
but now i got a new problem
the engine is ticking rather loudly, i dont know what to do....I dont even know where to start with this one, i love this car already, but shes killing me....
please help
thanks as always guys
What do you mean by ticking?
As the car's running there is a tick-tick-tick sound? Or is it the higher you rev, the faster the tick?
Edit: Great to hear the pump install went smoothly.
As the car's running there is a tick-tick-tick sound? Or is it the higher you rev, the faster the tick?
Edit: Great to hear the pump install went smoothly.
when the car is idleing tick tick tick tick tick tick, when i went around the block, i dident floor it, but when i accelerated the ticking got faster then i stop and the ticking slows down to idle tick? sounds like lifter tick
^Are you pretty sure it's the sound of the lifter??
Because I dropped the cap to the schrader valve on the fuel rail into my engine bay, and there was a ticking/rattling (consistent as the motor was running) which I though might've been a lifter or something and I was scared as hell. When I revved the motor, the noise would get more and more frequent. Eventually, the cap fell out, and i'm ok now...
Could you have possibly dropped something into the engine bay? It could be something as simple as that...
If the car was running fine before, I don't think you could develop a problem by letting the car sit, especially since you were working in the back..
Edit: I don't htink you could develop a lifter problem letting the car sit, but it could be possible.........
Because I dropped the cap to the schrader valve on the fuel rail into my engine bay, and there was a ticking/rattling (consistent as the motor was running) which I though might've been a lifter or something and I was scared as hell. When I revved the motor, the noise would get more and more frequent. Eventually, the cap fell out, and i'm ok now...
Could you have possibly dropped something into the engine bay? It could be something as simple as that...
If the car was running fine before, I don't think you could develop a problem by letting the car sit, especially since you were working in the back..
Edit: I don't htink you could develop a lifter problem letting the car sit, but it could be possible.........
Good job on replacing the pump
!
By letting the car sit for a while, the oil may have drained out from the hydraulic lifters completely, but then the ticking should go away in a few minutes. (3 minutes maximum, depending on the OAT [the colder, the longer]). See if it goes away by idling for 3-5 minutes. If it does, there's nothing to worry about.
As RedTurbo says, run the engine, put the shifter in P and apply parking brake fully and open the hood and check for FOD in the compartment especially around the accessory belt.
Or is it more like knocking?
JPN
!By letting the car sit for a while, the oil may have drained out from the hydraulic lifters completely, but then the ticking should go away in a few minutes. (3 minutes maximum, depending on the OAT [the colder, the longer]). See if it goes away by idling for 3-5 minutes. If it does, there's nothing to worry about.
As RedTurbo says, run the engine, put the shifter in P and apply parking brake fully and open the hood and check for FOD in the compartment especially around the accessory belt.
Or is it more like knocking?
JPN
Have you checked the oil? One of my cars ticks pretty loud when it's a little low on oil. It has quite a bit of ticking anyway, but when low on oil you can really hear it.
**NEXT DAY UPDATE**
well like all the problems the car has had the tick is gone!btw Jim i did check the oil last nite and this morning. it was full.the car did sit for 4 days while i waited for the fuel pump so the tick was proably from that. But now the car is runing like brand new again! The fuel pump is a little louder then stock, not enough to bother anyone i would think though.but thats fine i know its working. one of the belts on the passenger side (serpintinei think?) is a little noisey but its been that way since i got the car. I will probably replace the belt with the timing belt soon and then look into the noise problem. also when i was replacing the fuel filter the metal band that goes around the filter to secure it, the bolt snapped. Is there any place i can buy that strap/bolt? or do i need to go to the dealer? it cant be that much?
The last thing i need to is troubleshoot the a/c i have the popular "blinking lights" so i need to have the code read. then fix that last thing then i think im good.
And am i the only one that finds it rather scary/nerve racking that the wires for the fuel pump sit in the tank? i put a good solder on them but i still have been thinking about it.
I drove the car to work this morning, 70 degrees, she drove like a dream.... I am happy once again.... thank all of you for all your help
~J
well like all the problems the car has had the tick is gone!btw Jim i did check the oil last nite and this morning. it was full.the car did sit for 4 days while i waited for the fuel pump so the tick was proably from that. But now the car is runing like brand new again! The fuel pump is a little louder then stock, not enough to bother anyone i would think though.but thats fine i know its working. one of the belts on the passenger side (serpintinei think?) is a little noisey but its been that way since i got the car. I will probably replace the belt with the timing belt soon and then look into the noise problem. also when i was replacing the fuel filter the metal band that goes around the filter to secure it, the bolt snapped. Is there any place i can buy that strap/bolt? or do i need to go to the dealer? it cant be that much?
The last thing i need to is troubleshoot the a/c i have the popular "blinking lights" so i need to have the code read. then fix that last thing then i think im good.
And am i the only one that finds it rather scary/nerve racking that the wires for the fuel pump sit in the tank? i put a good solder on them but i still have been thinking about it.
I drove the car to work this morning, 70 degrees, she drove like a dream.... I am happy once again.... thank all of you for all your help
~J
Hello ~J,
Glad the ticking is gone. The engines used on turbos, ESPECIALLY on 850s, are extremely sensitive to the correct quality & quantity of engine oil & filter. It is not mandatory that you use synthetic or synthetic blend oil, assome forum membershave been using regular oil andthey never had problem (I myself liked using Valvoline Synthetic Blend 10W-30, but people may benefit from synthetic 5W-30 in extremely colder climate like northern Canada, etc... Make sure to change oil & filter at every 3,000 miles/4,800 kms or at every 6 months (I do mine at every 3,000 miles/4 months for turbocharged engines).
As to the snapped bolt that secured the filter band, mine snapped as well due to corrosion. I can't remember how I fixed mine as I did it last September, but I think I used a metal clamp to secure the band in place. As long as whatever you use can keep things secure, it would be fine. Or, you could perhaps spray PB Blaster and try to twist it off with a Vise-Grip. You can buy the same size bolt at a hardware store and the band is reusable unless damaged.
As to the serpentine belt, I strongly recommend that you use OEM; Continental Tech, as other brands seem to have poor reputation of making noise. The OEM is made noticeably better; it has criss-cross patterns on the back side of it. Also, when you do the belt, check tensioner & idler pulleys to make sure they're not making noise.
As to the A/C, yes have the codes pulled and note that they often appear for trivial reasons and afterthe LEDsstop flashing, the system can be used normally, unless there actually is a problem that needs to be fixed.
If the pump was re-installed as it was before, there is nothing to worry about, otherwise you'd be seeing 850s exploding everywhere and the mfg should have released recalls. Soldering is done just to keep the wires from getting loose. If the wire gets loose, it may pose a threat against spark so as long as soldering was done fine, no worry. Gasoline ignites easily in the form of vapour, rather than liquid, so make sure to keep the tank at least 1/4 or more at all times, though this has not much to do with safety but more to do with moisture condensation in the tank.
>But now the car is running like brand new again!
I think this is one of the reasons why some people, including myself, are attractedto 850s. As for me, no other passenger cars (except a few newer Lexus, BMW, Acura & Mercedes) look as sharp as 850s. Even though 850s are obsolete in some sense, they are still attractive (as for me, the rear deck spoiler is a must on these cars). 850s look attractive from any angle, except I wish Volvo made the front bumper a bit more aggressive.
Keep up the good maintenance, enjoy driving your 850and come back any time when other issues arise. We'll be here.
Best wishes,
JPN
Glad the ticking is gone. The engines used on turbos, ESPECIALLY on 850s, are extremely sensitive to the correct quality & quantity of engine oil & filter. It is not mandatory that you use synthetic or synthetic blend oil, assome forum membershave been using regular oil andthey never had problem (I myself liked using Valvoline Synthetic Blend 10W-30, but people may benefit from synthetic 5W-30 in extremely colder climate like northern Canada, etc... Make sure to change oil & filter at every 3,000 miles/4,800 kms or at every 6 months (I do mine at every 3,000 miles/4 months for turbocharged engines).
As to the snapped bolt that secured the filter band, mine snapped as well due to corrosion. I can't remember how I fixed mine as I did it last September, but I think I used a metal clamp to secure the band in place. As long as whatever you use can keep things secure, it would be fine. Or, you could perhaps spray PB Blaster and try to twist it off with a Vise-Grip. You can buy the same size bolt at a hardware store and the band is reusable unless damaged.
As to the serpentine belt, I strongly recommend that you use OEM; Continental Tech, as other brands seem to have poor reputation of making noise. The OEM is made noticeably better; it has criss-cross patterns on the back side of it. Also, when you do the belt, check tensioner & idler pulleys to make sure they're not making noise.
As to the A/C, yes have the codes pulled and note that they often appear for trivial reasons and afterthe LEDsstop flashing, the system can be used normally, unless there actually is a problem that needs to be fixed.
If the pump was re-installed as it was before, there is nothing to worry about, otherwise you'd be seeing 850s exploding everywhere and the mfg should have released recalls. Soldering is done just to keep the wires from getting loose. If the wire gets loose, it may pose a threat against spark so as long as soldering was done fine, no worry. Gasoline ignites easily in the form of vapour, rather than liquid, so make sure to keep the tank at least 1/4 or more at all times, though this has not much to do with safety but more to do with moisture condensation in the tank.
>But now the car is running like brand new again!
I think this is one of the reasons why some people, including myself, are attractedto 850s. As for me, no other passenger cars (except a few newer Lexus, BMW, Acura & Mercedes) look as sharp as 850s. Even though 850s are obsolete in some sense, they are still attractive (as for me, the rear deck spoiler is a must on these cars). 850s look attractive from any angle, except I wish Volvo made the front bumper a bit more aggressive.
Keep up the good maintenance, enjoy driving your 850and come back any time when other issues arise. We'll be here.
Best wishes,
JPN
well after much thought i have decided that i will pull the fuel assemabaly this weekend to "double check" myself and my work.
better safe then sorry.
thanks once again JPN for your always helpingwords of wisdom.
better safe then sorry.
thanks once again JPN for your always helpingwords of wisdom.
^Hm.......
No kidding...
Other than hearing my pump prime, I don't hear it at all (or I'm just not paying enough attention).
I don't know if you want to go through the hassell of getting a new one (since you mentioned it's not obnoxiously loud), but you might want to ask the seller about it if it's somewhat bothersome..
A lot of people who get the Walbro255 do say that it runs a lot louder though..
No kidding...
Other than hearing my pump prime, I don't hear it at all (or I'm just not paying enough attention).
I don't know if you want to go through the hassell of getting a new one (since you mentioned it's not obnoxiously loud), but you might want to ask the seller about it if it's somewhat bothersome..
A lot of people who get the Walbro255 do say that it runs a lot louder though..


