I have a 93 GLT 2.4 5 speed manual (210,000 miles) . I love this car. I have tried to bring it back from a "left for dead" state over the past few months.



Recently It started blowing coolant and stalling. I decided to replace the thermostat and fix the leak. While I was removing the thermostat upper housing, I stripped the torx bolt (word to the wise, take the fuel rail off to make room for your torx driver) and proceded to crack the lower house trying to remove it. This knucklehead move involved a hammer and chisel.



So in order to get the lower housing out I had to take off the Air Intake manifold. this was cool because I needed to fiddle with the Variable Air flap and the PCV. I Fixed the flap, fixed the thermostat housing (JB weld) put it all back together. As far as I can see all the connectors are on, all the vacuum hoses are connected.



The car now will turn over but will not ignite. I have no codes (1-1-1). I replaced the fuel pump +filter, I traced fuel all the way up to the injectors, and even turned them around and watched them squirt. I replaced the plugs and took a few out to make certain that I had spark. I have spark.



I don't know what this can be. I have fuel + spark + turn but no ignition . Not even a rumble.



Previously I coded on the MAF and CPM ( crankshaft position sensor) and O2 sensor. The O2 has been replaced. I cleaned the MAF and the CPM and drivability returned and codes went away.



I read some posts about a dirty throttle body causing stalling, but this ? also I cleaned the air intake up ( inside) with brake cleaner when I had it off.



My knuckles and will are almost completely busted. It jsut spins endlessly until the battery dies.



Any thoughts would be appreciated.



Cap and wires are old.





By the way my 1994 turbo wagon is running flawlessly @ 130K

 

Maybe thecrankshaft position sensorhas problems again. Check thesensor connector and wires.

 

Thanks for the reply.

I cleaned the CPM out again no codes for it.

This afternoon, I got some codes, finally :
1. Low Battery
2. MAF
3. Air Temp Sensor

I swapped the battery and the MAF from my working Turbo Wagon. The turbo wagon started with the MAF from the GLT, but soon had a MAF sensor failure code and a chuck engine light.

The GLT did not start with the good MAF from the Turbo wagon and the new battery. It cranked and cranked. No new codes.

Air temp sensor has been bad the whole time.

I attempted to clean the MAF from the original GLT but I think I snapped something fragile while wiping with a q-tip and alcohol.

So now I know I need another MAF. But will a bad MAF keep it from starting, or must there be something else??


I hate throwing money down a hole. Any thoughts?

 

Most likely the crankshaft position sensor. Check for spark at the coil while cranking it over. NO SPARK means either camshaft sensor or crank sensor. I had a similar problem. Shut the car off one day and would not fire 8 hours later.

 

Got spark at coil and at plug. I pulled the plug out grounded it and watched it spark. Does it still point at crank pos sensor?

 

How long has the car been sitting?

 

It has been down for about two weeks now. I have driven it about 7K since I purchased it earlier this year.

I ordered a new MAF, Wires, Cap and Rotor. I should receive them early next week. However, I drove the car before I took it apart to fix the thermostat. I am not convinced that a bad MAF would completely stop it from running.

I sprayed the air intake out with brake cleaner when I had it off. Do you think that I could have damaged a sensor in the throttle body? I am not getting any codes from anything other than the MAF.

Thanks Tech

 

It is possible the throttle position sensor got damaged.
Try this tomorrow and see if the car starts.
Get in the car and press and hold the gas pedal to the floor.
While holding it to the floor turn the key on and crank the engine over keep holding the pedal down. It may take a few minutes so If you can have a battery charger on or hook it up to another car for added voltage. Then see if it starts.

If you have spark and fuel I am thinking maybe the lifters collapsed and need to be repressurized again.

When the gas pedal is held to the floor before you turn the key on that should cut the fuel off while you crank it so this way it won't get flooded.

See if that does it.
If not maybe see if you can find a used TPS and see if that helps.
The mass flow could stop if from running but if you unplug it and leave it unplugged the car should run as well. It won't rev up good and might stall but it should idle pretty good.

 

Cool. I will try this.

Question. - I floor it and crank it for a few minutes - then do I stop and try to start it normally or you think it may start while I have it floored ?

Thanks

 

It should start when you have it floored. Remember to hold it to the floor before turning the key on and keeping it there the entire time.

 

Took out plugs

Looked in hole

Cranked and looked

Saw green spray

Head Gasket Blown
I hope thats all.
Not Good news.

 

Yes sounds like a blown headgasket to me.

 

smells like one too.