what else is needed to go with this kit in order for everythign to basically be changed? or is everything i need already in this package and i have nothing to worry about?

http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...category_id/63

or any other recomended things i should get to be safe?

 

make sure you get some extra clamps, as some of the volvo ones are tough to grimp in some spots. You might want to change your thermostat and temp sensor at the same time as its real easy to get to when the manifold is off. Also make sure you have a bolt retriver....magnet thing....good for fetching bolts trying to put the manifold back on LOL

 

Attachment 1726

This is a pic of the port in the block where the oil returns to the oil pan from the oil trap. The passage takes a sharp downturn just inside the port and this was where mine was clogged. I had the whole engine torn down so not a big deal for me to clean but what if I hadn't??

I mean if you clean it and some of the junk falls into the oil pan? but if you don't clean it the PCV woun't work right. I suppose I might hold a shop vac up to the port while loosening the junk with a small screw driver then change the oil.

Hopefully your's isn't plugged. Good luck and I hope this helps.

 

I used a shop vac to suck out what I could and then used compressed air to blow out the rest. Sure some of the crud went into the oil pan but that is what the oil filter is for and why you should change your oil and filter shortly after servicing the PCV system.

 

Those ports are always plugged. Try to keep as much crud out of the engine as possible, but yes, that's why there's an oil filter. Use solvent (carb/ air intake cleaner works great) and a stiff bottle brush to clean. Then, for extra protection, change the oil filter with a high- efficiency filter such as a Purolator PureOne, AMSoil Absolute Efficiency, or a Mobil1 filter (NOT a K&N oil filter- they're meant to get oil through at any cost on a high- performance engine, and are actually less efficient at getting out particles than some standard filters!) and use for 200 or so miles, then change the oil and again use a high- efficiency filter. Keep in mind, however, that the oil pump doesn't get filtered oil, this is why you should change the oil soon after the PCV replacement. And make sure the engine is still hot when you drain it, so that the particles are suspended in the draining oil.

As for clamps, if you don't have a good crimp tool for Oetker clamps- the ones for CV joints aren't going to work anywhere there's an angle- it's actually okay to use small worm- screw (radiator hose) or screw- band (commonly sold as fuel injection hose clamps, the original clamps for the oil trap to engine hose are this type) clamps. The primary benefit of Oetker clamps, and why Volvo used them, is cost and ease of machine- installation. You're not a machine, and a couple extra dollars for worm clamps isn't going to kill you. Plus, they're reusable for when you change the PCV system again in 10 years. You ARE going to keep your Volvo for another 10 years, right?

 

remember the bottom bolts on the intake manifold don't need to come completely off. Completely remove the top row of bolts and just loosen the bottom row, the manifolds lifts up and then pulls off. Makes things a looooot easier.

 

Amen to that! One of the many pleasant surprises found while working on these cars.

 

I'm taking this all in I'm gonna be doing this soon.

So far on my list of stuff to get:
PCV kit
throttle body gasket
fuel injector O rings (is it nescessery to remove the injector rail?)
oil cap seal

Anything else?

 

If you use the Oetker clamps, you can go to Lowe's or Home Depot and get some tile nippers. Just take a file and dull up the cutting surface. This worked for me, just do not crimp real hard or fast.

 

Wish I would have thought of that! They do sell the "proper" tool at almost any auto store and actually at Home Depot/Lowe's (look by the underground sprinkler stuff). I got my Oetker clamp crimp tool at O'Rielys for about $10.

You could possibly take the intake manifold off without removing the Injectors. I took mine off so that I could clean the entire manifold inside and out before putting it back on.

I'd add to your shopping list Throttle Body Cleaner, you're going to take it off, you may as well clean it.

 

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Only problem with the Oetker clamp tool sold at most parts stores is that they're intended for CV boot clamps, and can't reach clamps that aren't accessible straight on. Tile nippers will work, though you run the risk of the top of the clamp bending and then clamping force won't be as good- that's why the tools designed for Oetker clamps have the plate that pushes down on the top of the clamp as you crimp it. Honestly, use the Oetker clamps on the easy- to- get to ones, and worm clamps on the others, unless you're going to be doing this job on multiple cars, then it makes sense to get a multi- angle tool from a specialty tool supplier.

 

Boy what I would give to have a big city auto parts store. In the part of NC that I live in, if it is not on a Ford, Dodge, or Chevy diesel than they ain't got it. The point that carrots made about the oety clamp bending, is something I had not considered. +1 to him on this, now I gotta go check my oety clamps.