I finished a couple of small projects this afternoon. I tried to upload pics of work-in-progress, but I receive an error message. The pics are 600x800 and less than 100kb. I don't know what the problem could be.

Project #1 -- Adding a thin wire to glove box latch

I couldn't find a thin wire, so I used a twisty-tie wire from my box of garbage bags.
Like threading a needle while sewing, I ran the twisty-tie wire thru the loop behind the latch pin.
I tied each end of the twisty-tie wire in a square knot -- making a small loop.
I placed black electrical tape over the small loop keeping it flush with the top of glove box door.

Project #2 -- Installing deer whistles behind black inserts in front air dam

I bought a nice set of deer warning whistles at Wal-Mart. They are made by Bell. They are two-piece such that the whistle can be removed and re-attached to its base.

I made note of the torx screws fastening the front air dam to the bumper. I drilled out the rear hole of each of deer whistle mounting base to allow for the diameter of torx screw.

I removed and used torx screws to fasten deer whistle mounting bases behind black inserts in front air dam. I removed double-side tape and added a dab of Permatex Black RTV to each mounting base.

Too bad that I am not able to upload pics.

-- Added Apr 30th 06 --

Don't forget to install a nice pair of deer whistles --
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/cha...pic.php?t=2870

Project #1


http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/ima...vebox_wire.jpg

Project #2 -- Hiding deer whistles behind vents in air dam.

I bought a nice set of deer warning whistles made by Bell Automotive. I
found mine at Wal-Mart. They are two-piece such that the whistle can be
removed and re-attached to its base.

I observed the location of torx screws fastening the front air dam to the
bumper. I drilled out the rear hole of each of deer whistle mounting base to
allow for the diameter of torx screw.

I removed and used torx screws to fasten deer whistle mounting bases behind
black inserts in front air dam. I removed double-side tape and added a dab
of Permatex Black RTV to each mounting base.


http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/ima...le_package.jpg


http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/ima...e_location.jpg

 

The pics might be to big.

 

search keywords: r213faq slater real glove box glovebox repair

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index...howtopic=39803
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index...howtopic=41450

[quote name='Slater' date='Jan 31 2006, 12:56 PM' post='512703']
OK, making a new steel part to address this problem was not economical, so I detailed the procedure to reinforce the stock part so it will not break. You can also use the same procedure to repair the part after it has already broken.

It's very easy to do - a 2 on a scale from 1 to 10. Total cost $0.99 and is enough to do 4 gloveboxes (or $0.25 to fix my glovebox; however you want to look at it).

Tools/Materials needed:

- Phillips screwdriver
- Dremel
- Cutting and sanding bits for Dremel
- 1/16" drill bit, 3/32" drill bit, 1/8" drill bit
- #6-32 tap
- #6-32x3/8" socket head screw (available at any hardware store)

http://quickbrickmotorsports.com/bay...ebox/step1.jpg

Step 1. Remove the glovebox door piece that houses the latch mechanism. On the door you just removed, take a look at how all the springs and pins and arms and stuff are laid out and oriented. You'll need to remember when you go to put it back together.

Step 2. Unscrew the brown triangular shaped latch piece in the center.

Step 3. Carefully pry off the small c-clip holding the latch pin to the frame.
http://quickbrickmotorsports.com/bay...ebox/step2.jpg

Step 4. Remove the latch pin. The small post is what breaks. Mine was not broken, but I was not going to wait around until it did.
http://quickbrickmotorsports.com/bay...ebox/step3.jpg

Step 5. Using your Dremel, remove the small post using a cutoff disc or wire snips or something. I then sanded what was left of the post down as low as I could go. Don't sand too much because you have to know exactly where the post was to center your drill bit.
http://quickbrickmotorsports.com/bay...ebox/step4.jpg

Step 6. Drill a small pilot hole in the center of where the small post was using the 1/16" drill bit. Then enlarge the hole using the 3/32" drill bit. Finally, enlarge the hole using the 1/8" drill bit.

Step 7. Carefully tap the hole using the #6-32 tap.
http://quickbrickmotorsports.com/bay...ebox/step5.jpg

Step 8. Sand a small curved relief into the large head of the latch pin to allow the socket cap screw's head to clear. Then insert the socket cap screw and tighten. A dab of loctite isn't necessary but won't hurt for the extra piece of mind:
http://quickbrickmotorsports.com/bay...ebox/step6.jpg

Here is what the completed latch pin should look like:
http://quickbrickmotorsports.com/bay...ebox/step7.jpg

Step 9. Install the completed latch pin back into the frame, replace the c-clip, and finish putting everything back together the way it was taken apart.
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