Rear Caliper Question
#1
Rear Caliper Question
Hey guys...I'm planning on replacing the rear brakes in the next week or two. I currently have 157k on it and, in searching thru the service records from the previous owner, did not see that the rear calipers (or fronts for that matter) have ever been replaced. My question is, if the calipers aren't leaking and working fine, should I replace them?
#4
rear caliper locking
I think my right rear caliper is locking after driving and shutdown, so when I start off again I feel a clunk. This morning, it almost held me from starting up, then released with a solid clunk. It was a little sticky after that locked a little while parked, released when starting up. I can see partial wear on the outside of that rotor (contact only in middle of rotor) and have purchased brake pads for both rears.
I'm planning to turn the rotor, but while I have it apart is there any specific repair I should do beyond greasing moving parts (avoiding lube on pads, of course)?
Or might the locking be ABS related?
JB
I'm planning to turn the rotor, but while I have it apart is there any specific repair I should do beyond greasing moving parts (avoiding lube on pads, of course)?
Or might the locking be ABS related?
JB
#5
Turning/resurfacing the rotors on Volvos is not recommended; I would buy new rotors.
I would also replace the pad-holding spring kits (cross-shaped spring & spring retaining pins), and install half-size shims to keep squeal out. To achieve perfection, I would use either silicone or molybdenum-based grease (CV-joint grease, etc...) on moving parts (except the friction surfaces of course. Generic brake-quiet compound does not good on the rears on 850.
If there is a fault in the ABS, you should have codes stored in the ECU and the ABS light lit on the dash.
JPN
I would also replace the pad-holding spring kits (cross-shaped spring & spring retaining pins), and install half-size shims to keep squeal out. To achieve perfection, I would use either silicone or molybdenum-based grease (CV-joint grease, etc...) on moving parts (except the friction surfaces of course. Generic brake-quiet compound does not good on the rears on 850.
If there is a fault in the ABS, you should have codes stored in the ECU and the ABS light lit on the dash.
JPN
#7
My pleasure.
The reason why they should not be resurfaced is because of their minimum thickness limitations. Their minimum thickness can reach quickly if they are resurfaced. They are not as forgiving as American or Japanese makes.
I would go with Brembo (some of them come with new caliper bolts but mine didn't), Zimmermann or ATE, whichever OEM you like.
I would also change out the pads with OEM pads + half-size shims, and I would do both L&R brakes.
JPN
The reason why they should not be resurfaced is because of their minimum thickness limitations. Their minimum thickness can reach quickly if they are resurfaced. They are not as forgiving as American or Japanese makes.
I would go with Brembo (some of them come with new caliper bolts but mine didn't), Zimmermann or ATE, whichever OEM you like.
I would also change out the pads with OEM pads + half-size shims, and I would do both L&R brakes.
JPN
#8
#9
#10
calipers....
depending on what climate you live in be careful, I moved to Michigan in the winter and my front old calipers got completely stuck from ice. If they are working you will be ok but if you are going to get them changed anyway just make sure the shop checks for wear and tear before putting them back together.
#11
I do not recommend getting parts from Autozone or any franchise shop for Volvo, unless if it's something like light bulb, consumables (oil, ATF, etc...). Volvo's brakes are extremely choosy and you don't want to put anything but OEM rotors & pads. The extra cost is well worth it, unless you plan to keep the car for less than 6 months.
I would try FCP Groton.
JPN
I would try FCP Groton.
JPN
#12
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