Rear Speaker Replacement
#1
Rear Speaker Replacement
New question. I am getting ready to replace the stock rear speakers w/ 5x7 speakers. I want to use the stock enclosures, so I am modifying a mount for them. 6x9 will not fit into the enclosures. So, my question is this...Can I cut the old connection off the original speakers and splice that onto the new speakers, so that they will plug into existing connection from the deck? Has anyone tried this or do you just cut off both connections and wire directly to new speakers? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.
Volvo owner for 3 weeks now and am hooked. Already can't wait to upgrade to a Turbo model in the future. Thanks again...
Volvo owner for 3 weeks now and am hooked. Already can't wait to upgrade to a Turbo model in the future. Thanks again...
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Elizabethtown, Kentucky
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RE: Rear Speaker Replacement
I think you are right because the 2 rear speakers are wired in sequence so that it acts like 4ohm even though the speakers are 8ohm. I posted on some audio forums and was basically told that at 4ohm I would be OK and would only run a risk if I went to something like a 2ohm impedence. The rear speakers we used on sons 850 are 4ohm and we haven't had any problems with them.
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#12
RE: Rear Speaker Replacement
I'm the same way with the bass. Just want a good clean sound and keep the stock look. I have a 93 850, just bought 3 weeks ago. Having maintainence work done right now-timing belt, water pump, and engine mounts. Get it back Monday and can't wait to get back to fixing the sound system. Hope she lasts a long time on the road. What part of TN?
#13
#14
RE: Rear Speaker Replacement
If I remember correctly those connectors pop open and you can remove the wires without cutting them off.
ORIGINAL: KnoxVolvo
I have the original speakers, so I was just going to use those plugs. They are blown so no loss there. It seems it would be fine, but didn't know if anyone had tried it yet. Thanks.
I have the original speakers, so I was just going to use those plugs. They are blown so no loss there. It seems it would be fine, but didn't know if anyone had tried it yet. Thanks.
#15
RE: Rear Speaker Replacement
i actually did the same thing the other weekend, i used the old box enclosure with plugs and put in a pair of alpine 5x7's
worked out fine, i actually used a small bead of caulk to hold the speakers in place and prevent vibration. that way i didn't have to do any fabrication to the box, just plopped them in and caulked it up, and they sound great
worked out fine, i actually used a small bead of caulk to hold the speakers in place and prevent vibration. that way i didn't have to do any fabrication to the box, just plopped them in and caulked it up, and they sound great
#16
RE: Rear Speaker Replacement
Sorry if I am necro'ing a thread here, but I was looking for some specific information and Google brought me here, and I noticed a question or two that appeared not to have been answered, and possibly others may want to know if t hey don;t already.
Where is the amp located ('93 850)? It should be located directly behind your head unit. At least mine is in my '95 850.
As for the speaker impedence. It has basically been standard for automobile speakers to be 4ohm. Home speakers are usually 8ohm. Wiring a pair of 8ohm speakers correctly will produce a pair of 4 ohm speakers, which may be what Volvo has done as someone mentioned. Generally cars use 4 ohm because it requires less power to power them compared to an 8ohm speaker. As for the amplifiers, most amplifiers will work or are stable at 2 ohms, but not all so verify that before hooking up 2 ohm speakers (some high end amplifiers are also stable at 1ohm or 1/2 ohm).
It is becoming common for some speaker manufacturers to produce car speakers designed for 2 ohm operation (Infinity does this alot), which allows them to play louder and cleaner with less power, quite often not requiring an extra amplifier. So, just be sure what you are using and what you are powering your speakers with to prevent future damage, or wire them properly to match the necessary ohm rating for your amplifier.
Side note on basics with ohms and amplifiers for those who may not know. Basically each time you divide the ohm rating in half, from the stated output power of an amplifier, you multiply the output power of the amplifier by 2. So an amplifier rated at 100 watts @4ohms, would produce 200 watts @2ohms, 400watts @ 1ohm, etc (again most basic amplifiers are notstable at 1 ohm or less).
Also, one thing many people will overlook or read improperly (also retailers will advertise incorrectly) is what a speaker can handle. Many will advertise a speaker at some number like 100wattspeaker. Verify these numbers as they often advertise the peak power, not the RMS power. If they are advertising Peak power, Do not try to power supply 100watts to that speaker. The Peak is the maximum a speaker is capable of handling in short bursts before damage or destruction accurs to the speaker (melting the coil or blowing the cone itself). The RMS is the standard wattage that you should use, which is usually about 50% or so of the peak. Going beyond the RMS may cause distortion to become evident or damage over time.
Where is the amp located ('93 850)? It should be located directly behind your head unit. At least mine is in my '95 850.
As for the speaker impedence. It has basically been standard for automobile speakers to be 4ohm. Home speakers are usually 8ohm. Wiring a pair of 8ohm speakers correctly will produce a pair of 4 ohm speakers, which may be what Volvo has done as someone mentioned. Generally cars use 4 ohm because it requires less power to power them compared to an 8ohm speaker. As for the amplifiers, most amplifiers will work or are stable at 2 ohms, but not all so verify that before hooking up 2 ohm speakers (some high end amplifiers are also stable at 1ohm or 1/2 ohm).
It is becoming common for some speaker manufacturers to produce car speakers designed for 2 ohm operation (Infinity does this alot), which allows them to play louder and cleaner with less power, quite often not requiring an extra amplifier. So, just be sure what you are using and what you are powering your speakers with to prevent future damage, or wire them properly to match the necessary ohm rating for your amplifier.
Side note on basics with ohms and amplifiers for those who may not know. Basically each time you divide the ohm rating in half, from the stated output power of an amplifier, you multiply the output power of the amplifier by 2. So an amplifier rated at 100 watts @4ohms, would produce 200 watts @2ohms, 400watts @ 1ohm, etc (again most basic amplifiers are notstable at 1 ohm or less).
Also, one thing many people will overlook or read improperly (also retailers will advertise incorrectly) is what a speaker can handle. Many will advertise a speaker at some number like 100wattspeaker. Verify these numbers as they often advertise the peak power, not the RMS power. If they are advertising Peak power, Do not try to power supply 100watts to that speaker. The Peak is the maximum a speaker is capable of handling in short bursts before damage or destruction accurs to the speaker (melting the coil or blowing the cone itself). The RMS is the standard wattage that you should use, which is usually about 50% or so of the peak. Going beyond the RMS may cause distortion to become evident or damage over time.
#17
#18
RE: Rear Speaker Replacement
Ahh, well I can only really speak from experience with mine. Most searching I had done informed me that it would be directly behind the head unit, and I guess I was lucky enough to have one there
Regardless, it is about to be replaced, but as best I have found, that is the firt place I would look, but as you mention it may be more common for there not to be one at all.
Glad to know mine had the little extra benefit, but from what I have found it wa loaded with all options and a steal at $1800 I drove 4 hours to pick it up at auction.
Regardless, it is about to be replaced, but as best I have found, that is the firt place I would look, but as you mention it may be more common for there not to be one at all.
Glad to know mine had the little extra benefit, but from what I have found it wa loaded with all options and a steal at $1800 I drove 4 hours to pick it up at auction.
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