No problems here.

 

The reason it's posted as a possible DIY way to go cheap is because it works and doesn't cause problems.

You just want to make sure it doesn't kink. Either by using something to reinforce the hose like the spring coils or splice in solid 90 or 45 bends or just tie wrapping the hose to something that helps hold it's shape and keeps it away from anything too hot or where it might rub.

 

Plan on doing this tomorrow: can anyone tell me (approximately) how much 5/8 hose I am going to need if I run it straight from the heater core to the block? Also, what did you use to cut the heater core lines?

 

I think they are around 3'


copy and past from page 2:
Took out the engine-side hoses (those quick release connectors are a pain if they haven't been touched in 16+ years), removed the metal plate, and then slipped the whole black box out from the inside (had to depress the gas pedal a bit while twisting and working it out underneath). Once out, I was able to remove both sides of the moveable junction points... which leaves a nice channel for the 5/8" heater hose i'm replacing it all with. You'll want to retain the black box now with all the plastic pieces removed from the middle of the 2 holes. Reinsert it, with the plate (and the two small torx screws) and tighten it all up. Love the design of this piece. So simple, yet so effective. Get it nice and straight. I noticed that when I tightened it up, the interior black piece would stick out, providing a nice layer of molded plastic around where the hose will be sitting. I didn't use any grommet, I feel confident in this plastic protecting the hose.

On the metal tubes that go from the heater core up to this firewall junction.... I used a 4" grinder to cut just beneath the metal bracket leaving about 4-4.5" of the original tubes (heater core side is the important piece, make sure you have 2 fresh o-rings... the old ones get completely distorted, and then you start with the o-rings on the tubes themselves, insert and then use the single torx screw to pull it all in).

 

3' for each side? Just trying to make sure I get all this right so I don't have to run to the store 5 times. Also, I'm a bit unclear about what the purpose of an o-ring is if you're cutting the lines of the heater core off.

 

Not sure what they mean here...insert WHAT? and what's this about the single torx? And what do they mean by "heater core side is the important piece"?

 

I think 3' should do the entire job, get 4' just to be sure. The hoses come from block and the ends have the metal tubes on them to connect to the firewall junction. On the inside of the car there are a pair of metal tubes that go from the firewall junction to the bottom of the heater core. It is NOT possible to run the hose all the way to the heater core so some people cut the aluminum tubes a couple of inches from the firewall and connect the hoses at the cut instead of having the hose clamps connected so close to the firewall where it's to tight to get your hands up there to tighten the clamps on easy.

You need new o-ring seals so the connection at the base of the core connection doesn't leak. Hope that helps.

 

The thing to be a little concerned about is the small space in the firewall that will now have a gap there because the coupling will be gone. One buddy of mine hollowed out the coupling and ran the hose through the coupling so it would still be weather proof. That connection is pretty close to the turbo so if you don't seal it off you'll hear the turbo a lot more, spooling up and such. Sounds pretty cool. I have seen guys drill a hole in the firewall near there just to hear the turbo do it's thing.

 

rspi: I fail to see how more sounds of spooling turbo goodness could be a bad thing. Thanks for clarifying where those O-rings go - I was confused there for a while. any clue if the auto parts stores are likely to have those laying around? I mean, im sure they wouldn't be model specific, but if I can get ones that are the right size, that'd be great.,

 

When I was doing a PCV job, I went to O'Reiley's and they had a little box of O-rings all different sizes. People say it makes a difference and swear by the Volvo ones so if you can, you may want to go that route.

 

Single torque is the screw that goes into the adapter at the bottom of the core to secure the lines and seal it.

 

Been at this off and on all day...it's pissing me off.

 

What are you doing? It's a 1 hour job? Two if you are going to do the mod replacing the hoses all the way.

 

Not for someone with the back problems i have it isn't. Worked on it until almost 4 am...have the inside hooked up. Backwards. Lol don't care, just want this nightmare over.

 

Ouch! I use to have back issues. I have an inverter now which helps when it gets tight after a long day.

Lots of crawling around on the floor board.

 

Yes. And it seems like every single thing i have done has managed to find a way to make me bleed somewhere. Part of the problem is that I'm kinda close to the garage wall....when i parked it, i hadn't planned on having to fix it. At least the inside is done...engine bay should be easier. I hope so - car has been down for almost a week.

 

Do they make EVERYTHING on this car as inaccessable as possible? Sure seems that way. Going on probably 16 hours of working on this now, and i still have to put the original house that broke on, plus find a way to route the stupid heater house to the pipe without it kinkng up. I should have just wrote a check on this one.

 

Finally got it done around 9 tonight...I sure hope I never have to mess with this kind of thing again. I appreciate all the input i got from everyone here on how to do it - you guys are the best.

 

Hurrah!!! Which core did you go with?

 

I didn't buy a new one...it was the houses that were bad, not the hc.