Right front tire
#1
Right front tire
noooooobbb again.....
The right front tire seems to be positioned differently in the wheel well than the left. I get tire rub (under hard braking)on the right side and not the left with the new 205/55/16 tires I just put on. I measured the distance from the edge of the splash guard to the tire and it's about a little less than a half inchsmaller on the right side vs. the left...the gap I'm referring to is towards the door.
I ordered new struts to install and I know the alignment is off (way off), but now I'm wondering if maybe a control arm might be bent. I see no signs on the under carriage of any damage or anything andthe ball joint seems fine.
Could it be just the alignment or is it maybe a bent control arm?
Any thougths?
btw - it's a 95 850 turbo
The right front tire seems to be positioned differently in the wheel well than the left. I get tire rub (under hard braking)on the right side and not the left with the new 205/55/16 tires I just put on. I measured the distance from the edge of the splash guard to the tire and it's about a little less than a half inchsmaller on the right side vs. the left...the gap I'm referring to is towards the door.
I ordered new struts to install and I know the alignment is off (way off), but now I'm wondering if maybe a control arm might be bent. I see no signs on the under carriage of any damage or anything andthe ball joint seems fine.
Could it be just the alignment or is it maybe a bent control arm?
Any thougths?
btw - it's a 95 850 turbo
#3
RE: Right front tire
Weeeeelcome to the forum.....
It is hard to imagine that the control arm is bent horizontally, though I cannot say it never happens, especially if your control arm has separate ball joint, which denotes that the control arm is constructed of aluminium. Some VIN # 850s and later 850s came with steel control arm that has integrated ball joint.
When you say "rub", is the tyre actually rubbing against the fender/wheel well? Or is it just a vibration?
I can only guess that some hardware along the strut are loose (upper nuts x3 or lower attachment bolts & nuts, x2 each), allowing position shifting (if this is the case, you would have noticed serious vibration/looseness), or the right front wheel is toe-outed (if this is the case, you would have noticed uneven tyre wear on the old tyres and would have noticed strange steering feel).
The only way I know to determine whether the control arm is bent is to compare with new control arm. Anyway, replace the struts, have the wheels aligned and see if the problem cures. I would have the alignment done either at the dealer or a shop that specialises in Swedish/European makes. If you have it done at a dealer, the cost is indeed steep (I paid $139) but you can tell them to check the control arm with the new parts they have (sometimes they're out of stock, though).
I hope this gives you some ideas. If not, wait for other members to reply.
Wish you luck,
JPN
EDIT: Well, as often happens, Tech was the quickest[8D]. Moderator Tech is the top-dog of the forum, so follow his advice.
It is hard to imagine that the control arm is bent horizontally, though I cannot say it never happens, especially if your control arm has separate ball joint, which denotes that the control arm is constructed of aluminium. Some VIN # 850s and later 850s came with steel control arm that has integrated ball joint.
When you say "rub", is the tyre actually rubbing against the fender/wheel well? Or is it just a vibration?
I can only guess that some hardware along the strut are loose (upper nuts x3 or lower attachment bolts & nuts, x2 each), allowing position shifting (if this is the case, you would have noticed serious vibration/looseness), or the right front wheel is toe-outed (if this is the case, you would have noticed uneven tyre wear on the old tyres and would have noticed strange steering feel).
The only way I know to determine whether the control arm is bent is to compare with new control arm. Anyway, replace the struts, have the wheels aligned and see if the problem cures. I would have the alignment done either at the dealer or a shop that specialises in Swedish/European makes. If you have it done at a dealer, the cost is indeed steep (I paid $139) but you can tell them to check the control arm with the new parts they have (sometimes they're out of stock, though).
I hope this gives you some ideas. If not, wait for other members to reply.
Wish you luck,
JPN
EDIT: Well, as often happens, Tech was the quickest[8D]. Moderator Tech is the top-dog of the forum, so follow his advice.
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grndslm
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09-21-2012 07:28 AM