If it costs 90 in the US, here it costs 400. No way I'm fixing it if it costs that much.

IMOit's not attractive at all,otherwise ask everybody with "peculiar" A/C compressor problems and screwed up ABS computers. I think the "horn in front of the radiator" must have been designed by somebody in the truck or bus division. They usually have huge radiators, and a couple of horns there don't bother.

I heard it costs a lot in man hours to change the RMS. The seal itself is ridiculously cheap, but the man time costs.

I did some cleaning in the engine cabin with the grease remover and electronic contact cleaner. The top oil cooler line has been leaking oil onto the alternator and a/c compressor forever apparently. I cleaned up the top of the alternator and I was actually able to find aVolvo sticker there! Imagine how much dirty oil was dripping on the bottom side of the cooler line hose. Now it's much cleaner, I hope it'll last.

Regards

 

Hello again Axel,

I just thought of a last-resort fix for that bloody hose. You know, there is an ultimate adhesive that glues almost anything together...EPOXY! You could perhaps try filling the hose-to-metal connection with epoxy and see if it stops leaking. I should've tried it myself before I went for that new hose, which no one knows how long it'll last, as many people reported the same problem.

>If it costs 90 in the US, here it costs 400.
↑[:@][8D][8D][8D]

>I think the "horn in front of the radiator" must have been designed by somebody in the truck or bus division.

Yes indeed, undeniable.

>I cleaned up the top of the alternator and I was actually able to find a Volvo sticker there!
↑　((((;ﾟДﾟ)))


Have a good Sunday. I'm stuck with work until 11 p.m[8D]


JPN

 

My car does that too...

A very very rough start up. I just thought it'd be attributed to the cold (-7 F)....

I got rich exaust fumes too...

Edit: Doesn't blue smoke means you're burning something? I wish I remembered the colors/chemcial, but I think coolant or something burns blue...

Double Edit: About the Horn on the radiator thing, I know Subaru's have it...

 

Hi Jimmy,

Here's the colour chart:

Blue = Engine oil
White = Normal or coolant. If coolant, it can be noticed by distinct sweet odor.
Dark gray to black = Mixture way too rich.
Yellow = Forget it (just kidding)

RPM jumping after start-up in cold weather is normal. Also, mixture being rich is normal as well. Many years ago when cars still run on carburetor (some enthusiasts still prefer carbs), there was a manual "choke" mechanism with which you could enrich the A/F mixture. Fuel-injected engines do this automatically.

In cold start-upsin places like MN, be easy on the engine. I would let the engine idle at least 3 minutes for minus number temp, so that all fluids going good (oil, coolant, fuel, etc...). Many owner's guides state that you do not have to idle, and just drive slowly for the first 10-15 minutes. I am prejudiced and don't feel comfortable moving the car when the engine is still ice-cold.

I hope this helps.


JPN

 

^LoL. The biggest thing I really gotta do is replace that t-stat....

My garage is so dirty from all the dirty snow and what not.

I have huge problems getting up in the morning lol..So typically I end up doing the drive slowly approach. With a cold engine, the acceleration is terrible.