So after a bunch of research through tons of posts, I've gotten as far as I can without some extra help!

My "new" 95 850 wagon has been experiencing problems starting since the temperature dropped. Performed tune-up since getting car in December, so basically ruled out the spark plugs, et al.

I'll get it started usually after 10 mins but obviously taking it's toll on the car. Once I've started the car, it will usually start fine within a couple hours of being shut off. It's only when you let it sit idle overnight (cold) that we have this problem. I'm now hearing a "Click-click" after the engine fails to turn from the engine bay which I'm assuming is coming from the starter.

So that brought me to the starter, and I'm currently researching how to best test that. I've also pulled the A2 code 1-1-3 which I think refers to the fuel mixture. Could this be a bad O2 sensor, and how difficult is that to test or repair on your own?

Any help is much appreciated! Sorry if these questions seem basic, I'm slowly learning and trying to find out as much information on my own prior to posting....

Thank you!

 

1-1-3 (HO2S Integrator At Maximum Enrichment Limit),

1) Code 1-1-3 or 2-2-1 means that engine is running lean.
This may be caused by an air leak or an HO2S sensor fault.

Is the starter turning the engine over briskly? If not, is the battery charged up? Ck the battery voltage while cranking (may need a helper or remote starter button); should be >= 9V; if less than that, battery is low and needs a charge or replacement. If the battery's fine, then you have either a starter or battery cable issue.

Once you get that sorted out, clear the code(s) and see if they come back; bogus codes can sometimes get set from a low battery.

BTW: you didn't say but assuming this is a N/A model?

 

Yes, this is an NA model. 230K on it...we've owned it for about 1 and a half months now--it's sitting next to the 94 850 NA that gave us the Volvo fever. However the fever has turned into pneumonia with this new one, and I'm about out of money thanks to this car. Already have 800 more bucks into it and still same problem--won't start.

Came up with an 11.95V reading on the battery while the car sat, which jumped up to the 14's when cranking...but of course the car did not start.

 

OK...update.

Last night I cleaned all of the connections around the battery, checked the cables and put petroleum jelly on the terminals. Hooked everything back up and started like a charm. This time the CEL was not lit, but the service light was. CEL light is now back on and shining brightly!

This AM went to start up and after the 4th try got it going pretty well. Drove to Wisconsin and back today (about 200 miles) and turned off/started about 2-3 times all day without any problems on the first go. I did not think to clear out the 113 code before that trip...I should have to see if it came back.

Because the engine is turning over so briskly, I'm pretty sure that this is not a starter issue. However, I've cleaned all of those connections now as part of my troubleshooting, so process of elimination is working steadily. My mechanic is suggesting that it may be a fuel pump issue at this point--which is why my first start of the day is so difficult, but then it starts like a charm for the rest of the day. So now I'm on to researching that--and if I can peg this one down, the removal/installation does not look too bad at all. I'm not totally excited about the $300 part, but I guess life could be worse. Thankfully we've got another wagon to get us around while this one is being a bear.

Appreciative of the help and advice so far...will keep updating as I figure this one out. Please feel free to post your comments, especially if you think I'm barking up the wrong tree. I'm certainly no where near being an expert, but hoping that with some tenacity and a couple more years of troubleshooting/fixing I'll be able to hold my own.

 

Tried to start the car again today the way I've heard suggested: turn the key on and off 4-5 times (without cranking) to get the fuel pump building pressure (i hear it kick on each time)...then crank. I tried that and it did not work. Tried it again and nothing. By about the 4th or fifth attempt I heard a very strange buzzing sound coming from under the dash/behind the inst. panel/in the fuse box? Is this the fuel pump relay I keep reading about?

Immediately after this loud, long reverbaration I was able to start the car without a problem. Turned it off and restarted 2 minutes later without a problem. Started 30 minutes later without a problem,

SO...should I just plunker down the 10 bucks on a relay on ebay to see if that is the issue before I start messing around with the fuel pump? There seems to be little in the way of troubleshooting fuel system (other than replacement) in both Haynes and Chiltons books, so looking for sound advice.

Thx

 

If you're still out there to read this, I hope that your problem is solved. I have been battling the no-start-and-quit for a while now, and we've replaced a few parts. Your issue may be different than mine but I'll tell you what we've got so far. We don't go to mechanics unless the job is really complicated and so far most of it has been ok. The worst part I find about Volvo is that it's hard to get to things to fix them, oh and the new parts are expensive.

So here's the stats... my car is a red 94 volvo 850 wagon, non-turbo. When I got it it was snowy and cold and the guy told me that it has a hard time starting in the cold... I said, "yeah that seems normal for an old car I guess" and we went on our way. There were a few other bugs, but I thought nothing serious. So, every now and then it won't turn over on the first try...then more often, then half the time... and eventually.... a couple weeks ago almost never. When it does start it sometimes quits... this I'm not sure if we've remedied yet.

We killed the starter trying to start the car fifty-million times... and that's the click, click without turning over, or it might turn over and almost catch....but not quite....so we had a mechanic replace it since it was such a pain to get to (removing the shroud and maybe the radiator). Now, keep in mind that we have already replaced the alternator, the battery and the fuel/oil filters because it made sense.

So, from my research we were flooding it (gas smell when trying to start a lot) and it was still not starting just in a different way, turned over but just didn't do it. Soooo.... the choices were spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, or relay...we almost bought a new pump with relay just to get it done, but checked the distributor cap and rotor, they were cruddy... so 40.00 later, it starts and runs!! I'm told it's common for them to get cruddy, and it's not too bad of a job really to do. I have a good reference site for it if needed. I have yet to see if it still quits, as I'm now (after replacing the starter) getting a check engine code 113 as well). Hope this helped at all, I might have some more possibilities if ya wanna e-mail me about it.

I considered getting rid of this thing, but really it's an awesome car. Good luck fellow Volvo owner!

 

Oh and I'm not sure about the 02 sensor that may be the problem with mine too, also a vacuum hose that doesn't seem tight on mine might be a culprit... have you checked yours?

 

Oh, and the fuel pump... it should be making a whining sound when you try to start the car, it's kind of faint... some people diagnose their pump problem by whacking the fuel tank when their car isin't starting and trying again to see if it improves. They tell me it frees it up sometimes and you know it's on it's way out. Dunno if it helps or not but figured I'd throw it out there.

 

My name is Marco and I am hoping you can point me in the right direction.
I am having the same problem with my volvo 850. Only when I get the same buzzing coming from the instrument panel I am able to start the car. Did you replace the relay or solenoid for the fuel pump? what resolved your problem.

On cold mornings, I put the key on the ignition and turn it on to ignition (not start) and leave it on for about 15 minutes and then I try to start it up. It works about 95% of the time. ON really cold mornings it takes a little longer.

Thanks for your help,

 

Hi everyone!

I am excited to pose a possible solution to the cold start probem. I've had this problem with both of my '95 850 Turbo and `97 850R sedans I bought used. Even my professional mechanic couldn't figure it out! That's the good news... The bad news is this problem occurred more than a few years ago, and being more of a "girly girl" than a tomboy, I'm struggling to recall the name of the part that is the source of the problem.

A description of what I experienced... My problem always occurred when the weather was cold (at night or in the morning) and sporatically. There was a clicking sound coming from the engine compartment and it was as if the engine just couldn't "catch". If I was having problems at night, rarely could I get the car started. I had much better luck getting the car started when it happened in the morning. I would try starting the car every 20 minutes, and was usually successful on the 2nd or 3rd try. I live in Houston so it doesn't get very cold here. With the start routine I had established or trying to get a knowledgeable car mechanic to witness the problem first hand, I had a theory that the problem resolved with a slight warming in the temperature.

Concurrently, my mechanic didn't use a Volvo or Mann oil filter on the '97. (The '95 was sold to a friend before the problem was found.) This caused -- sorry folks but this is where the terminology gets sketchy for me -- the main seal/gasket/o-ring (?) "to dry out and slip". Y'all know the one... When it slips, the oil can drain out quickly. When my mechanic was performing this repair he was able to see the two gears that had missing/partially broken teeth. When the damage to the two gears met in the same spot, this caused the start problem.

I hope this helps. I'll see if I can find the receipt with the part names if y'all need more specifics.

Pam

 

I found the fix for the cold start problem.
The fuel pump relay (relay 103 located under the fuse box in the engine compartment)gets sluggish or takes a while to actuate when it is cold. I removed the relay and warmed it for a few minutes in my oven. Installed back in the car and it started right away. After doing this a couple of times, I purchased a new relay (about $50 at Autozone) and replaced the relay. The car is back to normal starting now. Opened the relay to see if something was bad inside the relay but I could not find anything visually wrong with it. I did not test the coil with a volt meter).

 

I found the fix for the cold start problem.
The fuel pump relay (relay 103 located under the fuse box in the engine compartment)gets sluggish or takes a while to actuate when it is cold. I removed the relay and warmed it for a few minutes in my oven. Installed back in the car and it started right away. After doing this a couple of times, I purchased a new relay (about $50 at Autozone) and replaced the relay. The car is back to normal starting now. Opened the relay to see if something was bad inside the relay but I could not find anything visually wrong with it. I did not test the coil with a volt meter).

 

The fuel pump relay usually does NOT present a code leaving people at guessing. What actually happens to the relay is the solder joints crack, usually hair line, hard to see with the naked eye. When cold, the crack gets larger, when warm it kinda closes and makes contact. Many people open the relay and heat the joint with a solder iron and it solves the problem. Others learn about the problem relay another way and replace them.

I actually recommend replacing the relay every 10 years.