stock wastegate?
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Joined: Jul 2007
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stock wastegate?
what is the wastegate at stock for the t3 i think it is? i want to increase boost pressure by just a couple psi. i think they are internally wastegated at 7 and i was going to go to 10-12. what do you all think? will the fuel system suppoert that without leaning out?
RE: stock wastegate?
Stock wastegate & fuel system should get you to 10-13 BUT the ECU controls boost. I suppose you could work out a manual bleed off on the boost sensor but it will be tricky to adjust and could cause problems. I would make other upgrades to the system BEFORE messing with boost pressure.
Follow below recommendations in order of cheapest & easiest to Expensive & Hard/Dangerous
1: K & N filter in stock airbox
2: Relocate horns and remove the plastic in front of air inlet at the Radiator surround
3: Do complete tuneup with IRIDIUM plugs, change out O2 sendors, add a ground wire from negative battery terminal to coil ground on fender well.
4: Check ALL vacuum fittings, elbows, lines, PCV etc.
5: SAMCO HOSE kit (don't do reverse piping not an improvement)
6: Check stock boost/vacuum pressures (there is info on this forum on what they should be) adjust wastegate accordingly.
7: Upgrade Exhaust/Downpipe/CAT
8: AQUAMIST
[sm=rant.gif]
9: IPD ECU upgrade
10: Now you can mess with boost controller
[sm=rant.gif]Remember it is always nice to GO FAST but I suggest that upgrading Brakes & suspension as well as good tires should come FIRST. You cannot enjoy your new found power from a hospital bed or body bag!! Not to mention you might take someone else with you.
I own and have owned a few MG's (British sports cars to the uninitiated) Their company motto was
SAFETY FAST!!
Follow below recommendations in order of cheapest & easiest to Expensive & Hard/Dangerous
1: K & N filter in stock airbox
2: Relocate horns and remove the plastic in front of air inlet at the Radiator surround
3: Do complete tuneup with IRIDIUM plugs, change out O2 sendors, add a ground wire from negative battery terminal to coil ground on fender well.
4: Check ALL vacuum fittings, elbows, lines, PCV etc.
5: SAMCO HOSE kit (don't do reverse piping not an improvement)
6: Check stock boost/vacuum pressures (there is info on this forum on what they should be) adjust wastegate accordingly.
7: Upgrade Exhaust/Downpipe/CAT
8: AQUAMIST
[sm=rant.gif]
9: IPD ECU upgrade
10: Now you can mess with boost controller
[sm=rant.gif]Remember it is always nice to GO FAST but I suggest that upgrading Brakes & suspension as well as good tires should come FIRST. You cannot enjoy your new found power from a hospital bed or body bag!! Not to mention you might take someone else with you.
I own and have owned a few MG's (British sports cars to the uninitiated) Their company motto was
SAFETY FAST!!
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 6,068
Likes: 13
From: NOYB
RE: stock wastegate?
ORIGINAL: 1996850turbo
Stock wastegate & fuel system should get you to 10-13 BUT the ECU controls boost. I suppose you could work out a manual bleed off on the boost sensor but it will be tricky to adjust and could cause problems. I would make other upgrades to the system BEFORE messing with boost pressure.
Follow below recommendations in order of cheapest & easiest to Expensive & Hard/Dangerous
1: K & N filter in stock airbox
2: Relocate horns and remove the plastic in front of air inlet at the Radiator surround
3: Do complete tuneup with IRIDIUM plugs, change out O2 sendors, add a ground wire from negative battery terminal to coil ground on fender well.
4: Check ALL vacuum fittings, elbows, lines, PCV etc.
5: SAMCO HOSE kit (don't do reverse piping not an improvement)
6: Check stock boost/vacuum pressures (there is info on this forum on what they should be) adjust wastegate accordingly.
7: Upgrade Exhaust/Downpipe/CAT
8: AQUAMIST
[sm=rant.gif]
9: IPD ECU upgrade
10: Now you can mess with boost controller
[sm=rant.gif]Remember it is always nice to GO FAST but I suggest that upgrading Brakes & suspension as well as good tires should come FIRST. You cannot enjoy your new found power from a hospital bed or body bag!! Not to mention you might take someone else with you.
I own and have owned a few MG's (British sports cars to the uninitiated) Their company motto was
SAFETY FAST!!
Stock wastegate & fuel system should get you to 10-13 BUT the ECU controls boost. I suppose you could work out a manual bleed off on the boost sensor but it will be tricky to adjust and could cause problems. I would make other upgrades to the system BEFORE messing with boost pressure.
Follow below recommendations in order of cheapest & easiest to Expensive & Hard/Dangerous
1: K & N filter in stock airbox
2: Relocate horns and remove the plastic in front of air inlet at the Radiator surround
3: Do complete tuneup with IRIDIUM plugs, change out O2 sendors, add a ground wire from negative battery terminal to coil ground on fender well.
4: Check ALL vacuum fittings, elbows, lines, PCV etc.
5: SAMCO HOSE kit (don't do reverse piping not an improvement)
6: Check stock boost/vacuum pressures (there is info on this forum on what they should be) adjust wastegate accordingly.
7: Upgrade Exhaust/Downpipe/CAT
8: AQUAMIST
[sm=rant.gif]
9: IPD ECU upgrade
10: Now you can mess with boost controller
[sm=rant.gif]Remember it is always nice to GO FAST but I suggest that upgrading Brakes & suspension as well as good tires should come FIRST. You cannot enjoy your new found power from a hospital bed or body bag!! Not to mention you might take someone else with you.
I own and have owned a few MG's (British sports cars to the uninitiated) Their company motto was
SAFETY FAST!!
1: K & N filter in stock airbox (Good idea or you can go with an EST intake kit)
2: Relocate horns and remove the plastic in front of air inlet at the Radiator surround (This wont gain you any power just looks better behind the grille area)
3: Do complete tuneup with IRIDIUM plugs, change out O2 sendors, add a ground wire from negative battery terminal to coil ground on fender well. (This is called do STAGE ZERO which can be found in the link in my signature)
4: Check ALL vacuum fittings, elbows, lines, PCV etc. (This is called do STAGE ZERO which can be found in the link in my signature)
5: SAMCO HOSE kit (don't do reverse piping not an improvement) (Good idea also look into the Stylin Motors Inc. turbo hose kits.)
6: Check stock boost/vacuum pressures (there is info on this forum on what they should be) adjust wastegate accordingly. (This is done by getting a boost gauge that can read vaccum and boost one that can read at least 25 In Hg and 25PSI. This should also be part of STAGE ZERO.)
7: Upgrade Exhaust/Downpipe/CAT (Great idea. 3" mandrel bent downpipe to a 2.5" mandrel bent catback system with a free flowing straight through design muffler such as BORLA and Magnaflow. You will see the most gains from the 3" downpipe.)
8: AQUAMIST (Don't do this unless your going to really up your boost and then add more higher performance engine parts. If your going to be going 300Hp+ then I suggest this option.)
9: IPD ECU upgrade (This is a great ECU upgrade and one of the best ECU tuners on the market for Volvo's. RICA and BSR are the other two great ECU tuners for Volvo's on the market. If you was decent ECU tuners look into Upsolute, SpeedTuning USA and Inmotion.)
10: Now you can mess with boost controller (Actually he can use a Manual Boost Controller (MBC) on his car as is. Now if his car isn't up to snuff things can go wrong and that is why STAGE ZERO is most important before you mod your car. I seriously wouldn't suggest running an upgraded ECU upgrade and a MBC. Because the ECU upgrade will raise your boost higher then it is stock and if you add a MBC your just going to be running more boost that you don't need because the stock turbo can only handle 15-17 PSI before it is out of its efficency range.)
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 6,068
Likes: 13
From: NOYB
RE: stock wastegate?
Oh by the way DO NOT and I repeat DO NOT mess with the actual wastegate. Get an ECU upgrade to raise your boost pressure or get a Manual Boost Controller (MBC). But DO NOT mess with the actual wastegate.
RE: stock wastegate?
S70 driver,
I have to disagree that horn relocation does not improve performance. While it will not be anything you can "feel" the increased airflow through the A/C Condenser, Radiator and Intercooler will be beneficial to power and efficiency. I have no idea why the engineers @ Volvo did that?
An Aquamist system will be effective @ any boost level or any performance level. The "Heatsoak" abilities of water provide a tremendous benefit. It helps cool the charge and also helps prevent detonation or "knock" with todays gas prices people are using lower octane gas. The knock sensor ignitions and fuel injection computers are now retarding the ignition timing and dumping more fuel to keep temps down. The aquamist system counteracts the heat and detonation allowing a slightly leaner (more efficient) mixture and higher spark advance equalling more power, more efficiency.
My step 10 wasn't really meant to be taken literally, I really don't think after all the others things are done that you would need more boost. I also recomend against using MBC's on cars with computer controlled boost pressures. The computer is much better at regulating it than we are and it won't try to "see what happens if it turn it up just a little more!"
I have to disagree that horn relocation does not improve performance. While it will not be anything you can "feel" the increased airflow through the A/C Condenser, Radiator and Intercooler will be beneficial to power and efficiency. I have no idea why the engineers @ Volvo did that?
An Aquamist system will be effective @ any boost level or any performance level. The "Heatsoak" abilities of water provide a tremendous benefit. It helps cool the charge and also helps prevent detonation or "knock" with todays gas prices people are using lower octane gas. The knock sensor ignitions and fuel injection computers are now retarding the ignition timing and dumping more fuel to keep temps down. The aquamist system counteracts the heat and detonation allowing a slightly leaner (more efficient) mixture and higher spark advance equalling more power, more efficiency.
My step 10 wasn't really meant to be taken literally, I really don't think after all the others things are done that you would need more boost. I also recomend against using MBC's on cars with computer controlled boost pressures. The computer is much better at regulating it than we are and it won't try to "see what happens if it turn it up just a little more!"
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