Stuck in first gear when cold
#1
Stuck in first gear when cold
I have a '95 850 turbo that momentarily gets stuck in first gear (5 seconds), mostly when it is cold outside. Also, every once in awhile the flashing arrow light comes on. I have been reading here that it might be related to a faulty PNP switch. I checked the transmission codes, and got a "322", but I can't find a reasonable explanation of what this means. Is there a way to determine if it really is the switch, before I take it to a repair shop? Does anyone know what a reasonable cost for replacing the switch should be?
#2
RE: Stuck in first gear when cold
Hello SJanas,
Greetings from Chicagoland.
As to your question:
Mfg Code P322: Incorrect Gear Ratio
http://www.volvospeed.com/Repair/Ele...onSocketA1.htm
Your gearbox might be suffering of low fluid, by as little as a half quart. I've had the same code in December and after clearing the code & adding a half quart of Dexron-III/Mercon, the problem never came back. Check the fluid level,in case if you don't know how to do this, give us another reply.
Do you see theCEL (check engine light) coming on, about 2~4 seconds after you start the car? If so, the problem is likely low fluid.
FYI:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850other.htm
PNP SW, Volvo: $110
PNP SW, Scan-Tech (Swedish): $80
Gear Selector Micro SW, Volvo: $18
Haynes Manual: $13.95
Should you decide to visit a shop, I strongly suggest that you go to a shop that specializes in Swedish/European cars, or Volvo dealer (check with them to make sure that they accept parts from customers). Their costs are about 20-30% (or more) more than average town shops, but the additional cost is worth it in most cases (this is due to the lack of diagnostic equipment or lack of access to up-to-date servicing info, or lack of knowledge on specific vehicle mfg at average shops).
Good luck,
JPN
Greetings from Chicagoland.
As to your question:
Mfg Code P322: Incorrect Gear Ratio
http://www.volvospeed.com/Repair/Ele...onSocketA1.htm
Your gearbox might be suffering of low fluid, by as little as a half quart. I've had the same code in December and after clearing the code & adding a half quart of Dexron-III/Mercon, the problem never came back. Check the fluid level,in case if you don't know how to do this, give us another reply.
Do you see theCEL (check engine light) coming on, about 2~4 seconds after you start the car? If so, the problem is likely low fluid.
FYI:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850other.htm
PNP SW, Volvo: $110
PNP SW, Scan-Tech (Swedish): $80
Gear Selector Micro SW, Volvo: $18
Haynes Manual: $13.95
Should you decide to visit a shop, I strongly suggest that you go to a shop that specializes in Swedish/European cars, or Volvo dealer (check with them to make sure that they accept parts from customers). Their costs are about 20-30% (or more) more than average town shops, but the additional cost is worth it in most cases (this is due to the lack of diagnostic equipment or lack of access to up-to-date servicing info, or lack of knowledge on specific vehicle mfg at average shops).
Good luck,
JPN
#3
RE: Stuck in first gear when cold
Correction:
P322 isn't the mfg code, it's the code you get from OBD-I. I think the mfg code started with a P8. But this is not much of a use, as the mfg code only appears on an OBD-II scanner.
JPN
P322 isn't the mfg code, it's the code you get from OBD-I. I think the mfg code started with a P8. But this is not much of a use, as the mfg code only appears on an OBD-II scanner.
JPN
Last edited by JPN; 02-23-2011 at 05:13 AM. Reason: Screw up was noted during forum format change
#4
#6
RE: Stuck in first gear when cold
Good evening Sjanas,
Just came back from work.
OK, here's the procedure for checking the gearbox fluid level, it is much different from checking for engine oil level (If you have the owner's guide, like info2x has suggested, DO use it for reference & correct procedure):
1. Drive your car for approx 20 minutes. This allows the gearbox fluid to warm up.
2. Set the parking brake fully (put wheel chocks if available), and with your foot on the brake pedal, shift from Park to ALL detent; P-R-N-D-3-L, stopping at least 3 seconds at each position.
3. Do the same as above, in reverse order.
4. With the engine at idle, pull out the YELLOW dipstick, which is on the right-hand side of the engine compartment, and close to the radiator. With turbo engine, the dipstick is somewhat "hiding" in that area, so look close to find it.
5. Clean the dipstick with lint-free cloth or equivalent.
6. Insert the dipstick back, making sure that no foreign object is on it (even a tiny piece of foreign object can render automatic gearbox useless).
7. Pull out the dipstick again, and check for the fluid level. On one side of it, it says "COLD", and the other side says "HOT". You need to look at the "HOT" side. If the fluid level is between the two botches next to the "HOT" mark, the level is correct. If not, addfluid little by little, checking for the level frequently to avoid over-filling (use a funnel with flexible extension for adding fluid). Go to an auto parts store and buy a quart of transmission fluid marked as "Dexron-III/Ford Mercon". That's the correct fluid for 850.
If you can, could you give us some more descriptions about the shop you've been using? It may be just me, but it doesn't seem like the shop has expertise in Volvo's. Clearing the CEL is not difficult. Again, I suggest that you visit a local AutoZone if there's one, and tell them that you have '95 Volvo 850 that DOES HAVE OBD-II receptacle (as they'll tell you they can't test your car since it's '95, but Volvo began installing OBD-II since 1994 model year, and even my 850 has it). OBD-II is a computerized diagnostic system, and with a scanner you can pretty much find why CEL is on, and able to clear the codes & CEL. The OBD-II scanner receptacle is located in front of the shifter, right under the coin holder.
I hope this helps.
PS: As to your clunking problem, listen to others' replies. Yes, it could be from anywhere but in my first reply I thought it was the CV-joint, as the noise was coming at turns. But like Moderator Tech (the top-tech on the forum) has noted, it could very well be the upper spring seat, as it is notorious for wearing out. I had to replace mine too. 850's endure so much stress at the front-end, so the suspension components are subject to wear. Parts alone could cost approx $300-$600, but once it's done, the front end should have another 10 years/100,000 miles of service if done right with OEM parts. I personally feel this is a good investment, if you plan to keep your 850 for more than 3 years. Check with shops to see if they accept parts from customers.
I hope this helps.
JPN
Just came back from work.
OK, here's the procedure for checking the gearbox fluid level, it is much different from checking for engine oil level (If you have the owner's guide, like info2x has suggested, DO use it for reference & correct procedure):
1. Drive your car for approx 20 minutes. This allows the gearbox fluid to warm up.
2. Set the parking brake fully (put wheel chocks if available), and with your foot on the brake pedal, shift from Park to ALL detent; P-R-N-D-3-L, stopping at least 3 seconds at each position.
3. Do the same as above, in reverse order.
4. With the engine at idle, pull out the YELLOW dipstick, which is on the right-hand side of the engine compartment, and close to the radiator. With turbo engine, the dipstick is somewhat "hiding" in that area, so look close to find it.
5. Clean the dipstick with lint-free cloth or equivalent.
6. Insert the dipstick back, making sure that no foreign object is on it (even a tiny piece of foreign object can render automatic gearbox useless).
7. Pull out the dipstick again, and check for the fluid level. On one side of it, it says "COLD", and the other side says "HOT". You need to look at the "HOT" side. If the fluid level is between the two botches next to the "HOT" mark, the level is correct. If not, addfluid little by little, checking for the level frequently to avoid over-filling (use a funnel with flexible extension for adding fluid). Go to an auto parts store and buy a quart of transmission fluid marked as "Dexron-III/Ford Mercon". That's the correct fluid for 850.
If you can, could you give us some more descriptions about the shop you've been using? It may be just me, but it doesn't seem like the shop has expertise in Volvo's. Clearing the CEL is not difficult. Again, I suggest that you visit a local AutoZone if there's one, and tell them that you have '95 Volvo 850 that DOES HAVE OBD-II receptacle (as they'll tell you they can't test your car since it's '95, but Volvo began installing OBD-II since 1994 model year, and even my 850 has it). OBD-II is a computerized diagnostic system, and with a scanner you can pretty much find why CEL is on, and able to clear the codes & CEL. The OBD-II scanner receptacle is located in front of the shifter, right under the coin holder.
I hope this helps.
PS: As to your clunking problem, listen to others' replies. Yes, it could be from anywhere but in my first reply I thought it was the CV-joint, as the noise was coming at turns. But like Moderator Tech (the top-tech on the forum) has noted, it could very well be the upper spring seat, as it is notorious for wearing out. I had to replace mine too. 850's endure so much stress at the front-end, so the suspension components are subject to wear. Parts alone could cost approx $300-$600, but once it's done, the front end should have another 10 years/100,000 miles of service if done right with OEM parts. I personally feel this is a good investment, if you plan to keep your 850 for more than 3 years. Check with shops to see if they accept parts from customers.
I hope this helps.
JPN
#7
RE: Stuck in first gear when cold
Thank you for the detailed information. I will check the transmission fluid and let you know. About where I service...I used to go to a Volvo specialist, but in the last couple of years I've gone to a more local, general automotive service shop. I think for the front end and the CEL issues, I will research to find a volvo specialist or go to AutoZone as you suggest. I haven't been all that happy with that place anyway.
#8
I have a '95 850 turbo that momentarily gets stuck in first gear (5 seconds), mostly when it is cold outside. Also, every once in awhile the flashing arrow light comes on. I have been reading here that it might be related to a faulty PNP switch. I checked the transmission codes, and got a "322", but I can't find a reasonable explanation of what this means. Is there a way to determine if it really is the switch, before I take it to a repair shop? Does anyone know what a reasonable cost for replacing the switch should be?
Last edited by NASA Engineer; 02-22-2011 at 05:04 PM.
#9
The code 322 for a 1994 Volvo is the winter lockup transmission mode. Just cleared on. If car feels slugish upon acceleration from stop you need to clear its codes. See futher online.
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