Stupid Car starts when it feels like it
Stupid Car wants to be a paperweight. Got $2k into this mistake I made it's a 1994 850 Turbo. When she starts runs pretty well. Never wants to start warm, at all. Usually will start when cold, except when it really matters, like important time to take someone somewhere. New plugs, new wires, new coolant temp sensor, fuel pump relay checks out OK. I guess the next step is to get a fuel pressure gauge. Codes say it has rich running. Maybe the fuel press regulator back near the rear wheel? I've had this nice looking paperweight for three months now, if it doesn't figure out how to be a reliable car soon I will sell it for Parts!!
Maybe an ignition coil would be the issue. I've heard of the coils going bad where they'll work fine cold but once the car is running and the coil heats up, it stops working. I would try to find a coil at a local junk lot for a few bucks. As far as the rich code, I can't help there. I know that my car, a 95 Turbo, has thrown unrelated codes while dealing with some running/starting problems. I even got a rich code when my fuel pressure was at 10PSI instead of 45. I'd put 15 on a junk yard coil to find out.
If it's a 94 the fuel pressure regulator is under the aluminum cover of the injectors right on the front of the engine. At the driver's end of the cover is the connector you need when you connect a fuel pressure gauge.
Where are you located ??
When it doesn't start, does it crank and just not fire or doesn't it crank ?? If you let it sit and cool down will it start up ??
If it cranks and doesn't start you should try to pull the coil wire off the distributor and check for spark. Narrowing down lack of spark or fuel will help a lot.
Where are you located ??
When it doesn't start, does it crank and just not fire or doesn't it crank ?? If you let it sit and cool down will it start up ??
If it cranks and doesn't start you should try to pull the coil wire off the distributor and check for spark. Narrowing down lack of spark or fuel will help a lot.
Last edited by Kiss4aFrog; Aug 12, 2013 at 10:11 PM.
This works great, skip down to where it says "ignition checks, Motronic 4.3, No start"
http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/tech/ser...ting-Turbo.pdf
No special tools required, if you skip over the breakout box steps. that could be necessary if you have wiring problems, but the odds of that are pretty low.
http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/tech/ser...ting-Turbo.pdf
No special tools required, if you skip over the breakout box steps. that could be necessary if you have wiring problems, but the odds of that are pretty low.
Well ~ Thank you for the ideas and suggestions. Also thank you to rspi, I have watched a lot of your videos, really informative! Today I got an ignition coil from a wrecking yard and put it on the car, I was sure it would start. NO!! Just cranks... No start. I can't believe it.
1. Did you check if you get enough fuel pressure at the end of the injectors rail?
2. Take out a spark plug after you did some cranking and check if the spark plug is wet from fuel. --> Engine gets fuel
3. Take a spark lead off and hold it against the engine block. Let someone crank the car and see if sparks are jumping onto the engine. CAREFULL there is a lot of electricity also do not hold it near fuel.
4. Read off the errors from the motronic.
These engines are pretty simple all they need is enough fuel and the right timing for the sparks.
Wild changing parts without fault tracing will only be cost intensive and lead you nowhere.
Parts which are known to fail often are the fuel pump relay--> car gets no fuel
If any or both sensors for camshaft position and or flywheel position (RPM sensor) fail the ECU can not compute the right timing for the spark--->car will not start. However errrors are stored in the ECU in this case.
Also a known buggy part is the engine coolant temperature sensor. If it fails and reports wrong values (eg the engine is cold and the sensor reports hot) the ECU will compute the wrong mixture of air and fuel. This would for example explain your troubles starting the engine when it is hot.
The idle air control valve could also play up and the engine would not get enough air (it will also store a DTC).
Cristian
2. Take out a spark plug after you did some cranking and check if the spark plug is wet from fuel. --> Engine gets fuel
3. Take a spark lead off and hold it against the engine block. Let someone crank the car and see if sparks are jumping onto the engine. CAREFULL there is a lot of electricity also do not hold it near fuel.
4. Read off the errors from the motronic.
These engines are pretty simple all they need is enough fuel and the right timing for the sparks.
Wild changing parts without fault tracing will only be cost intensive and lead you nowhere.
Parts which are known to fail often are the fuel pump relay--> car gets no fuel
If any or both sensors for camshaft position and or flywheel position (RPM sensor) fail the ECU can not compute the right timing for the spark--->car will not start. However errrors are stored in the ECU in this case.
Also a known buggy part is the engine coolant temperature sensor. If it fails and reports wrong values (eg the engine is cold and the sensor reports hot) the ECU will compute the wrong mixture of air and fuel. This would for example explain your troubles starting the engine when it is hot.
The idle air control valve could also play up and the engine would not get enough air (it will also store a DTC).
Cristian
The car has a new coolant temp sensor. I didn't determine that the coil was bad, but when it was suggested I called around and found a coil at a local wrecking yard for only $25 so I went over there and got it. SO.... the next steps will be check the fuel rail pressure and pull a plug out to see if it is wet. Apparently the previous owner knew it had this problem and that is why they sold it, because they were asking a pretty penny for the car as it looks like it is NEW inside and out, and when it runs it runs very well. When i test drove it, however, the front end was shaking so I made a low offer, and surprisingly, he took it. Soon as I bought it I put on new front brake discs and pads, and front hub bearings left and right. Very soon after that, it quit running. Then it would run only if started cold.... never would start hot. NOW, it refuses to start at all. Saturday I will do those fuel system tests. I already did the relay jumper thing, and still no start...It seems like when I turn the key to "ON", I can hear the fuel pump, but I'm not sure. Will get a long screwdriver and hold it to the tank and have a friend turn the key, to make sure. Once it's fixed up and running, I will post a picture or two, the car really does look like it is barely a year old! Thanks for all the help here..
What is really funny about all this is I have another car that needed a super expensive repair, and I thought it would cost thousands, so i bought THIS car so i'd have a reliable car to use in the interim. Turned out I got the other car repaired for only $700 when It would normally have cost four or five times that...
What is really funny about all this is I have another car that needed a super expensive repair, and I thought it would cost thousands, so i bought THIS car so i'd have a reliable car to use in the interim. Turned out I got the other car repaired for only $700 when It would normally have cost four or five times that...
Last edited by tonylinc; Aug 15, 2013 at 07:26 PM.
It is really easy to hear the fuel pump if you just stick your head in the trunk or recline the seat way back and turn the key. Don't be confused by the IAC under the hood. It hums when you turn the key on for a minute or so.
Just because you put a different coil on doesn't give you a pass on checking for spark. You may not have had it before you replaced the coil and you might still not have it.
Won't know for sure until you check.
A no spark condition can come from a lot of different sources or you may have it coming off the coil but not getting to the plugs. You need to check before you throw more parts at it unless you think that's easier
Won't know for sure until you check.
A no spark condition can come from a lot of different sources or you may have it coming off the coil but not getting to the plugs. You need to check before you throw more parts at it unless you think that's easier
No Spark coming out of the coil ! I was sure surprised. Took the wire off the center of the dist. cap and held it close to engine metal, cranked it a few times. No spark. SO.... possible culprits are cam sensor and/or crank sensor? I'm looking forward to driving this car!
Last edited by tonylinc; Aug 17, 2013 at 11:52 AM.
Yes , , those are likely culprits. Have you tried to pull codes ('94) or if you're special lucky found an OBD port to scan it to see if there is anything in the computer for trouble codes yet ?? If you've already scanned or pulled codes you might want to try again. Make sure to write them down, if any and erase memory.
Do you know where to go and how to pull codes ??
Might want to give Firebirdparts advise a try.
"This works great, skip down to where it says "ignition checks, Motronic 4.3, No start"
http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/tech/ser...ting-Turbo.pdf
I don't think it was a stupid mistake to buy and fix up as this "should" be something relatively easy to repair once you can identify the problem. Think of it as sweat equity and that you're smarter than the car. You just need to take your time and follow a path to the problem.
Test stuff, post results and well help you get it back on the road and a smile on your face.
Do you know where to go and how to pull codes ??
Might want to give Firebirdparts advise a try.
"This works great, skip down to where it says "ignition checks, Motronic 4.3, No start"
http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/tech/ser...ting-Turbo.pdf
I don't think it was a stupid mistake to buy and fix up as this "should" be something relatively easy to repair once you can identify the problem. Think of it as sweat equity and that you're smarter than the car. You just need to take your time and follow a path to the problem.
Test stuff, post results and well help you get it back on the road and a smile on your face.
Last edited by Kiss4aFrog; Aug 17, 2013 at 02:24 PM.
Starts every time now and runs Great. I took out the cam sensor and the crank sensor is also right there. I found a local wrecking yard that had SIX of these cars. I went down there with my tools and took their cam sensor and right below it was the crank sensor, took that too. Bought Both for $23.00 !! Came home installed both and now she is starting every time. Already had all new tune up parts, plus coolant temp sensor, This car is more comfortable than my mercedes! And, faster too. She is gonna begin eating up some miles. Thanks everyone for all the help! Here's a few pictures.


