tie rod boot
#1
#2
There is an inner and an outer on each side. The boot is there to keep the moisture and dirt out. Over time they will destroy the joint and cause steering problems from mild to failure to steer. If it's the "inner" the big boot on the end of the steering rack it can also let grit get in there and damage the seal on the rack causing it to leak and hard steering. Only way to fix is replace the rack Big $$$
Yes, it's important. No it doesn't have to have "Volvo" stamped on it to be a good replacement. You will need to take it apart to get the umbrella boot over the outer tie rod end and you'll need to remove and replace the outer tie rod end to get the "sleeve" over the inner tie rod end at the steering rack.
Which boot is it that's damaged? If it's the inner, are there any signs the rack is leaking?
Someone else's adventure
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...hp?f=1&t=36344
Outer on the left, inner on the right and rack with inner boot.
Yes, it's important. No it doesn't have to have "Volvo" stamped on it to be a good replacement. You will need to take it apart to get the umbrella boot over the outer tie rod end and you'll need to remove and replace the outer tie rod end to get the "sleeve" over the inner tie rod end at the steering rack.
Which boot is it that's damaged? If it's the inner, are there any signs the rack is leaking?
Someone else's adventure
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...hp?f=1&t=36344
Outer on the left, inner on the right and rack with inner boot.
Last edited by Kiss4aFrog; 11-20-2011 at 02:57 PM.
#4
#5
If it's the CV axle boot it's usually best to just replace the axle. IMO
It's not that difficult a job and most any shop can do it. If you go to Midas just don't fall for the upsell. Post your location and maybe someone in your area can recommend a shop they have had good luck with. Call Midas, Firestone, Goodyear .... and get an estimate and see how much price shopping you want to do. Most shops are going to quote the whole axle, make sure.
If you order from Rockauto the whole half shaft with both joints can be as cheap as 42 bucks plus shipping. Local auto parts store 60 to 90 bucks. If you're going to hang on to your car I'd get the one with a lifetime warranty.
I have taken them apart and if you're really broke it's a way to go but it's a real hassle to take it apart, clean it thoroughly, completely dry it out, reassemble and grease it and then clamp the new boot down and reinstall. New boot with grease and clamps can be 10-25 and your time.
They do make a thing called a "quick boot". It is actually split in half and you glue it on. Never used one, never had anyone say anything good about them. It's so much easier but if you get the slightest grease in there trying to get it into position the glue doesn't hold and you toss it off going down the road. Lots of complaints on these.
Check youtube for info on doing just the boot and doing the axle.
Instructions on quick boot:
The quick boot is split into two pieces to permit CV boot replacement without disassembly of axle shafts. CV joint grease, two clamps, glue closure screws, nuts and instructions are furnished with the split boot. Butyl rubber and silicone rubber boots are available for most CV axles.
The other thing about rebooting is usually by the time you find a torn or damaged boot enough grit and moisture has already imbedded itself into the grease and will already be damaging the joint itself. You can not properly clean the grease out without removing the axle and disassembling it.
It's not that difficult a job and most any shop can do it. If you go to Midas just don't fall for the upsell. Post your location and maybe someone in your area can recommend a shop they have had good luck with. Call Midas, Firestone, Goodyear .... and get an estimate and see how much price shopping you want to do. Most shops are going to quote the whole axle, make sure.
If you order from Rockauto the whole half shaft with both joints can be as cheap as 42 bucks plus shipping. Local auto parts store 60 to 90 bucks. If you're going to hang on to your car I'd get the one with a lifetime warranty.
I have taken them apart and if you're really broke it's a way to go but it's a real hassle to take it apart, clean it thoroughly, completely dry it out, reassemble and grease it and then clamp the new boot down and reinstall. New boot with grease and clamps can be 10-25 and your time.
They do make a thing called a "quick boot". It is actually split in half and you glue it on. Never used one, never had anyone say anything good about them. It's so much easier but if you get the slightest grease in there trying to get it into position the glue doesn't hold and you toss it off going down the road. Lots of complaints on these.
Check youtube for info on doing just the boot and doing the axle.
Instructions on quick boot:
The quick boot is split into two pieces to permit CV boot replacement without disassembly of axle shafts. CV joint grease, two clamps, glue closure screws, nuts and instructions are furnished with the split boot. Butyl rubber and silicone rubber boots are available for most CV axles.
The other thing about rebooting is usually by the time you find a torn or damaged boot enough grit and moisture has already imbedded itself into the grease and will already be damaging the joint itself. You can not properly clean the grease out without removing the axle and disassembling it.
Last edited by Kiss4aFrog; 11-20-2011 at 03:22 PM.
#6
I just replaced all four of mine last week. Not too difficult but very messy.
Here is a thread that covers it.
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic...t/page__st__20
Here is a thread that covers it.
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic...t/page__st__20
Last edited by boxpin; 11-20-2011 at 06:22 PM.
#7
Thanks Kiss and Box,
I've asked a single owner Swedish Motor shop run by a Vietnamese guy who's got all kinds of rave reviews, how much it would cost. It the whole thing shaft with bellows is pretty cheap as you say, that might be the best. But on the other hand, the original shaft is a volvo, so will the replacement shaft be as good? Only the wheel side bellows are split, not the engine side.
I've asked a single owner Swedish Motor shop run by a Vietnamese guy who's got all kinds of rave reviews, how much it would cost. It the whole thing shaft with bellows is pretty cheap as you say, that might be the best. But on the other hand, the original shaft is a volvo, so will the replacement shaft be as good? Only the wheel side bellows are split, not the engine side.
#8
If your going to replace them and you have it out...do both.
If your not going to do the work yourself its much cheaper to replace the shaft.
Part:
1994-1997 Volvo 850 Turbo Axle Assembly-Front Left
or:
If your not going to do the work yourself its much cheaper to replace the shaft.
Part:
1994-1997 Volvo 850 Turbo Axle Assembly-Front Left
or:
#9
Boxpin, what site do you use for the estimates?
That estimate just kills me but I'm not thinking of the labor to get to the axle just how cheap that boot is ..... wow.
I'd hate to think how much I'd have tied up in my three hundred dollar "beater" if I included the diagnostics (thanks people) and labor to do the things I've done.
That estimate just kills me but I'm not thinking of the labor to get to the axle just how cheap that boot is ..... wow.
I'd hate to think how much I'd have tied up in my three hundred dollar "beater" if I included the diagnostics (thanks people) and labor to do the things I've done.
#10
Its an Iphone app. I have found it to be very helpful and informative. The prices are pretty spot on. Here are the boots for $22.
1994-1997 Volvo 850 Turbo CV Boot Kit-Models with Auto Transmission
like I said, I just replaced all four of mine. Took about 2 hours (they were out already) and a lot of rags.
1994-1997 Volvo 850 Turbo CV Boot Kit-Models with Auto Transmission
like I said, I just replaced all four of mine. Took about 2 hours (they were out already) and a lot of rags.
#11
Those are unbelievable prices, can't find them here. Swedish Motors here (Hawaii) wants $357 for each wheel, replacing JUST the boots, not the shafts, and NOT both boths on each shaft, just one on each.
Midas wants $465 for both wheels, both boots on each wheel, including taxes, etc... Well, you know where I'll go. But thanks to you all.
Midas wants $465 for both wheels, both boots on each wheel, including taxes, etc... Well, you know where I'll go. But thanks to you all.
#12
Ququestion... 850 NA Sed ...
Do you think bad CV's could cause a vibration at 50mph+? It feels like tire out of bal but have had all 4 balanced Twice and they're perfect. The vib seems to come & go and could be smooth one day and not the next on the same stretch of road. Have replaced all 4 rotors, pads & calipers, ball joints & outer tie rods. No other symptoms...no clicking or other noises either. It's just not smooth on the highway and it used to be.
Do you think bad CV's could cause a vibration at 50mph+? It feels like tire out of bal but have had all 4 balanced Twice and they're perfect. The vib seems to come & go and could be smooth one day and not the next on the same stretch of road. Have replaced all 4 rotors, pads & calipers, ball joints & outer tie rods. No other symptoms...no clicking or other noises either. It's just not smooth on the highway and it used to be.
#13
Those are unbelievable prices, can't find them here. Swedish Motors here (Hawaii) wants $357 for each wheel, replacing JUST the boots, not the shafts, and NOT both boths on each shaft, just one on each.
Midas wants $465 for both wheels, both boots on each wheel, including taxes, etc... Well, you know where I'll go. But thanks to you all.
Midas wants $465 for both wheels, both boots on each wheel, including taxes, etc... Well, you know where I'll go. But thanks to you all.
#15
CV Boot Replacement
Thanks guys, for all the advice. Yes, the boots and boot kits themselves are cheap but Volvo wants about $800 for the entire job, a local mechanic (he said he uses new shafts), about $500, and Midas (same shaft but new boots, all 4) about $460 inclusive (tax, etc)
What worries me most is that the new shafts aren't as solid as the Volvo originals (even with 175,000 miles on them).
Can you trust these new shafts? For ultimately, they're more important than the boots, which I can tape up with electrical tape if need be.
What worries me most is that the new shafts aren't as solid as the Volvo originals (even with 175,000 miles on them).
Can you trust these new shafts? For ultimately, they're more important than the boots, which I can tape up with electrical tape if need be.
#17
#19
I ended up taking it to Midas; it was the least expensive although it didn't look like they changed the inner boots (not new looking, just dull, same with the clamps) but charged me for all four anyway. The guy insisted, when I asked him about the inner boots, that he himself saw the tech cut out the old ones. Ah well...,
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