Timing belt break
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 4,517
Likes: 12
From: Cape Coral, FL
4-5K car !!!! What are you driving ... I bought mine for $300. My front struts cost more than that, the sport springs were almost that, the exhaust was half as much again and the turbo ended up being about double. Not to mention all the stuff like bearings, CV shafts, sensors ..... maybe it really is a 4K car 
I have tons of respect for Robert (Rspi) but the water pump is one of those things we differ on. He's a believer in skipping it at least once and I agree it's likely to be OK, no leak, no failure as long as it's OEM/Vovlo or equally good quality aftermarket. I strongly believe in replacing everything you can afford to replace that the timing belt touches each time you do a timing belt. It's likely due to seeing the aftermath of a pulley or pump failing and taking out the head. It's also the fact that offering it to a customer covers my butt if they decline the full repair as I can note it on the work order. I'm not working in a shop anymore but I still have a mechanics perspective on stuff I do for myself and friends.
I would have a hard time coming up with $800 to fix mine unexpectedly also but I think almost anyone can follow the written directions and videos on the topic and with pretty basic tools do a timing belt safely and cut that bill down to parts and maybe a case of beer for a friends help. You just need to take your time and pay attention to what you're doing. Plus if they are "here" we can take them by the hand and walk them through.
I have to laugh about your car as mine was a single mom, short on funds and driven into the ground too. I got it with a broken sway link in front and a failed shock mount in the rear. Between the engine killing if left to idle, MIL light on constantly that no one knew how to read (they didn't know it had OBDII) and the mysterious knocking noise no one could find (the shock banging in the open mounting hole) it was a pretty pathetic critter I drove home two footing it to keep it from dieing at each light.
Presently I do have a great set of new shock mounts with firm KYB shocks in the rear and the two lowering sport springs from the set I bought but my front Bilsteins, mounts, insulators, sport springs and new "A" arms are sitting in the basement waiting for warmer weather. So I have a slight nose up stance presently
I have tons of respect for Robert (Rspi) but the water pump is one of those things we differ on. He's a believer in skipping it at least once and I agree it's likely to be OK, no leak, no failure as long as it's OEM/Vovlo or equally good quality aftermarket. I strongly believe in replacing everything you can afford to replace that the timing belt touches each time you do a timing belt. It's likely due to seeing the aftermath of a pulley or pump failing and taking out the head. It's also the fact that offering it to a customer covers my butt if they decline the full repair as I can note it on the work order. I'm not working in a shop anymore but I still have a mechanics perspective on stuff I do for myself and friends.
I would have a hard time coming up with $800 to fix mine unexpectedly also but I think almost anyone can follow the written directions and videos on the topic and with pretty basic tools do a timing belt safely and cut that bill down to parts and maybe a case of beer for a friends help. You just need to take your time and pay attention to what you're doing. Plus if they are "here" we can take them by the hand and walk them through.
I have to laugh about your car as mine was a single mom, short on funds and driven into the ground too. I got it with a broken sway link in front and a failed shock mount in the rear. Between the engine killing if left to idle, MIL light on constantly that no one knew how to read (they didn't know it had OBDII) and the mysterious knocking noise no one could find (the shock banging in the open mounting hole) it was a pretty pathetic critter I drove home two footing it to keep it from dieing at each light.
Presently I do have a great set of new shock mounts with firm KYB shocks in the rear and the two lowering sport springs from the set I bought but my front Bilsteins, mounts, insulators, sport springs and new "A" arms are sitting in the basement waiting for warmer weather. So I have a slight nose up stance presently
Senior Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
From: Chicago
4-5K car !!!! What are you driving ... I bought mine for $300. My front struts cost more than that, the sport springs were almost that, the exhaust was half as much again and the turbo ended up being about double. Not to mention all the stuff like bearings, CV shafts, sensors ..... maybe it really is a 4K car
I have tons of respect for Robert (Rspi) but the water pump is one of those things we differ on. He's a believer in skipping it at least once and I agree it's likely to be OK, no leak, no failure as long as it's OEM/Vovlo or equally good quality aftermarket. I strongly believe in replacing everything you can afford to replace that the timing belt touches each time you do a timing belt. It's likely due to seeing the aftermath of a pulley or pump failing and taking out the head. It's also the fact that offering it to a customer covers my butt if they decline the full repair as I can note it on the work order. I'm not working in a shop anymore but I still have a mechanics perspective on stuff I do for myself and friends.
I would have a hard time coming up with $800 to fix mine unexpectedly also but I think almost anyone can follow the written directions and videos on the topic and with pretty basic tools do a timing belt safely and cut that bill down to parts and maybe a case of beer for a friends help. You just need to take your time and pay attention to what you're doing. Plus if they are "here" we can take them by the hand and walk them through.
I have to laugh about your car as mine was a single mom, short on funds and driven into the ground too. I got it with a broken sway link in front and a failed shock mount in the rear. Between the engine killing if left to idle, MIL light on constantly that no one knew how to read (they didn't know it had OBDII) and the mysterious knocking noise no one could find (the shock banging in the open mounting hole) it was a pretty pathetic critter I drove home two footing it to keep it from dieing at each light.
Presently I do have a great set of new shock mounts with firm KYB shocks in the rear and the two lowering sport springs from the set I bought but my front Bilsteins, mounts, insulators, sport springs and new "A" arms are sitting in the basement waiting for warmer weather. So I have a slight nose up stance presently
I have tons of respect for Robert (Rspi) but the water pump is one of those things we differ on. He's a believer in skipping it at least once and I agree it's likely to be OK, no leak, no failure as long as it's OEM/Vovlo or equally good quality aftermarket. I strongly believe in replacing everything you can afford to replace that the timing belt touches each time you do a timing belt. It's likely due to seeing the aftermath of a pulley or pump failing and taking out the head. It's also the fact that offering it to a customer covers my butt if they decline the full repair as I can note it on the work order. I'm not working in a shop anymore but I still have a mechanics perspective on stuff I do for myself and friends.
I would have a hard time coming up with $800 to fix mine unexpectedly also but I think almost anyone can follow the written directions and videos on the topic and with pretty basic tools do a timing belt safely and cut that bill down to parts and maybe a case of beer for a friends help. You just need to take your time and pay attention to what you're doing. Plus if they are "here" we can take them by the hand and walk them through.
I have to laugh about your car as mine was a single mom, short on funds and driven into the ground too. I got it with a broken sway link in front and a failed shock mount in the rear. Between the engine killing if left to idle, MIL light on constantly that no one knew how to read (they didn't know it had OBDII) and the mysterious knocking noise no one could find (the shock banging in the open mounting hole) it was a pretty pathetic critter I drove home two footing it to keep it from dieing at each light.
Presently I do have a great set of new shock mounts with firm KYB shocks in the rear and the two lowering sport springs from the set I bought but my front Bilsteins, mounts, insulators, sport springs and new "A" arms are sitting in the basement waiting for warmer weather. So I have a slight nose up stance presently
Yes the neglect can be funny and sad on some of these. Fortunately, mine didn't suffer too long with broke owners it was pretty well cared for through most its life, and has no major issues. I just had to buy tires, springs, shocks, timing belt kit, PCV system, and some other odds and ends. I also did the brakes. This cost money but now the car's ready for another 150k.
Administrator
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 15,736
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From: Albuquerque, NM
LOL
Tires: $600
Springs & Shocks: $800
Timing Belt Job: $800
PCV System: $600
Odds & Ends: $500
Brakes: $450
Total:$2,950
The PO was handed this estimate, that is exactly why you can purchase one of these cars for $1,200. New total, $4,150.
I would like to get an XC for my mom. She is in her mid 70's and lives in PA. I'm thinking, get one, do all the maintenance and she should be good to go for a couple of years. Looked at one for $1,600. After my inspection (brief) I figured it would cost me about $3,000 out of pocket just to get it to where I need it to be for mom.
Head job: $800
PCV Parts: $150
Tires: $450
Radiator: $200
Paint: $800
Heater core: $50
Coolant flush: $25
Timing belt parts: $250
Control arms: $180
Suspension parts: $150
TOTAL: $3,055, that's off of a walk around. Take the car to a mechanic or dealer and you're looking at $5,600, excluding the head. So I offer the guy $350 he counters at $600 and I walk.
Tires: $600
Springs & Shocks: $800
Timing Belt Job: $800
PCV System: $600
Odds & Ends: $500
Brakes: $450
Total:$2,950
The PO was handed this estimate, that is exactly why you can purchase one of these cars for $1,200. New total, $4,150.
I would like to get an XC for my mom. She is in her mid 70's and lives in PA. I'm thinking, get one, do all the maintenance and she should be good to go for a couple of years. Looked at one for $1,600. After my inspection (brief) I figured it would cost me about $3,000 out of pocket just to get it to where I need it to be for mom.
Head job: $800
PCV Parts: $150
Tires: $450
Radiator: $200
Paint: $800
Heater core: $50
Coolant flush: $25
Timing belt parts: $250
Control arms: $180
Suspension parts: $150
TOTAL: $3,055, that's off of a walk around. Take the car to a mechanic or dealer and you're looking at $5,600, excluding the head. So I offer the guy $350 he counters at $600 and I walk.
Last edited by rspi; Dec 21, 2013 at 10:53 AM.
Administrator
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 4,517
Likes: 12
From: Cape Coral, FL
With mine I bought it cheap as no one wanted it and I planned on fixing and selling it and instead somehow I've really started to like it. Started showering it with parts and now I have a fair amount of money into it but I haven't spent any on the cosmetics and that's what still makes it look a little crappy for what it really is mechanically under the unmatched body parts.
Hope to get it into a Vo-Tech school this fall or next and have it painted all the same color and then maybe it will look as well as it rolls
I needed to replace a parked by feel front fender (PO) and the yard only had green that fit my 850. Green fender on red car
That and my interior after the PO kids , , , those stains aren't coming out and the front seats are crap. Good excuse to get a nice set of Recaros after it gets paint. I put a set in my van back in '78 and I still remember how great those things felt.
Hope to get it into a Vo-Tech school this fall or next and have it painted all the same color and then maybe it will look as well as it rolls
I needed to replace a parked by feel front fender (PO) and the yard only had green that fit my 850. Green fender on red car
That and my interior after the PO kids , , , those stains aren't coming out and the front seats are crap. Good excuse to get a nice set of Recaros after it gets paint. I put a set in my van back in '78 and I still remember how great those things felt.
Last edited by Kiss4aFrog; Dec 21, 2013 at 10:34 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
From: Chicago
With mine I bought it cheap as no one wanted it and I planned on fixing and selling it and instead somehow I've really started to like it. Started showering it with parts and now I have a fair amount of money into it but I haven't spent any on the cosmetics and that's what still makes it look a little crappy for what it really is mechanically under the unmatched body parts.
Hope to get it into a Vo-Tech school this fall or next and have it painted all the same color and then maybe it will look as well as it rolls
I needed to replace a parked by feel front fender (PO) and the yard only had green that fit my 850. Green fender on red car That and my interior after the PO kids , , , those stains aren't coming out and the front seats are crap. Good excuse to get a nice set of Recaros after it gets paint. I put a set in my van back in '78 and I still remember how great those things felt.
Hope to get it into a Vo-Tech school this fall or next and have it painted all the same color and then maybe it will look as well as it rolls
I needed to replace a parked by feel front fender (PO) and the yard only had green that fit my 850. Green fender on red car
That and my interior after the PO kids , , , those stains aren't coming out and the front seats are crap. Good excuse to get a nice set of Recaros after it gets paint. I put a set in my van back in '78 and I still remember how great those things felt.
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