just noticed on my daughter's 850T her timing belt was done 60K miles ago - but in 2006... I've read some suggestions to change every 7 years and others say 10 years max... Her question was "can it make it through the winter..." and my reply was, if the timing belt goes, the car goes to a junk yard... (its in fair condition)

 

I'm sure you know the answer, change it. If it is on it's second, or more change (>140,000 miles) and doesn't have record of the rollers, tensioner, and water pump being replaced, replace those too.

I learned the hard way. I ASSUMED that making it through the winter was possible, it wasn't. No record of other TB parts being replaced, just the TB at 70k miles and 7 years. I would have been changing it for it's third time. In the dead of winter, the water pump seized. To make things more embarassing, I had ALL new parts for the timing system in my house waiting for a not so cold day. That day didnt come and I had to rebuild the head.

Yours could make it, or it couldn't. It is a gamble. You CAN take the time while it is nice out to inspect each component. Make sure the tensioner isn't leaking and has strong compression. Make sure the rollers are free and not loose. Make sure the water pump spins freely with no grinding. These checks aren't a guarantee but might help you decide if it CAN make it through winter. If you have money, and time while it is still nice, change it. You don't want to live with failed tbelt regret.

 

If you have the means to get it done, do it. Better safe than sorry, especially during the winter.

 

car has about 190K miles and the TB was done at 140K but a few years back in late 2006. I should be able to remove the upper timing belt cover to inspect the belts while figure out when to do this... (some logistics with where the car is).

 

My water pump failed at 195K, it was original. Timing belt was replaced seven years prior, at 120K. Try to do your best inspection. It would still be a gamble on other parts even if the belt looks good.

 

water pump was also replaced at 140K with OEM part. I'm more concerned about the belt againing but point made about idlers/pump and doing all at once.

 

My belt looked fine for it's age, even before the pump failed. No fraying, no chipped teeth, no rot/cracking. It was an OEM belt. Good news about your pump being replaced and OEM at that. Still check your tensioner and rollers. Though it still stands, if you have the resources, change it.

You seem knowledgable but a few helpful tips. A bench vice is helpful for compressing the tensioner if you plan to resuse it, though a large C clamp works fine as well. Have a small nail or drill bit handy as a pin to set the compressed tensioner. A shallow drive socket wrench is almost necessary to get the torx bolt of the roller off (if you do replace it). The cam locking tool from IPD is quite useful, I highly suggest it. If I think of anything else I'll add it.

 

It’s simple every seven years regardless of mileage and every 70,000 miles regardless of years and what ever comes first thereafter ie:140,000 or fourteen years.

 

seven year old post.

 

Maybe he waited 7 years to remind them that they need another one.

 

I learned the hard way. I ASSUMED that making it through the winter was possible, it wasn't. No record of other TB parts being replaced, just the TB at 70k miles and 7 years. I would have been changing it for it's third time. In the dead of winter, the water pump seized. To make things more embarassing, I had ALL new parts for the timing system in my house waiting for a not so cold day. That day didnt come and I had to rebuild the head.

 

There's a Volvo service bulletin that you can google for which shows the timing belt intervals for the I5s. For the older cars 850s/V70s it is in fact 70k/7 years then moved to 120K/10 years with a few select models having an even longer interval. The interval also says the service is with a new tensioner and belt. Now with that said, it's not always the age of the belt that causes the failure - idlers, water pump, tensioner and even a failed serpentine belt can take out a timing belt so many opt to replace the water pump proactively at every other interval and feel for any wonkiness in the idlers and accessories. Kind of sucks that the pump would seize - normally they start leaking via the weep hole as a warning that the pump bearing is shot, so it sounds like you just had some back luck. PS on the pre-VVT engines, doing the timing belt is pretty easy and IPD sells a couple of tools to help - a serpentine belt tool and a front side cam lock. For the VVT engines, the Cam lock goes on the back side and you need to rotate the VVT gear to preload it during the alignment process (so a shop will ask for an extra .5 hours of labor). FCP and others sell kits with belt/tensioner/water pump as well - not a bad idea if the car is a keeper.