Tech,

95' 850 wagon with 120+k miles

How complicated replacing timing belt is? As is obvious I have never done this before, I am fairly handy and caustiously handy (think before you do something, don't just do it) and do follow instructions step-by-step.

IPDUSA offers the belt, toolsand DVD for instructions for about $100. In the past I have used IPD's DVD to fix my odometer and it worked like a charm and therefore have confidence in what they offer.

Your guidance will help, if needed please feel free to PM me in case you do not want to comment on a particular parts vendor.

Regards

 

You're going to want more than just the belt. As for instructions, look at www.volvospeed.com in their 'Bay 13' repair area. There is a good set of instructions that are completely free and include pictures. I'd call FCP Groton and order the parts from there. If you're an ebayer, they sell an entire timing belt kit of parts, which includes all the pulleys, belt, water pump, etc. for an excellent price combined with free shipping. Just search under 850 timing belt and you'll find their kit.

If you take your time and are meticulous, it's a pretty straight forward job. - AB

 

If you do go the DIY route just make sure to spin the engine by hand a few times to make sure nothing is going to crash when you start the engine.[align=left] [/align]

 

Folks,

Do I have to replace pulleys, belt, water pump, etc. if they are not bad? Not asking to be cheap and save money but wanting to understand the reason and learn from your experiences as well, plus recommedations of the gurus.

I think I would like to take up this project, obviously need to make sure I have done my homework before I pick up a tool.

Regards

 

Hello again guptash,

I just posted a reply on your other post, I hope it'll be of some reference to you until Mr. Tech is available.

As to the timing belt servicing procedure, I'll copy & paste my post from the past:
https://volvoforums.com/m_48928/tm.htm


TIMING BELT:

I do mine at every 60,000 miles/5 years. I change it more frequently than is recommended, because the belt is cheap but the engine isn't. If the previous owner left logbook (maintenance record), great, but if no, then it's not a bad idea to replace it. Try to visually inspect it by removing one 12mm bolt that's holding the belt cover and wiggle it upward. This exposes pretty much everything around the timing belt mechanism.

Should you decide to do the timing belt, make sure to get the following items as well:
1. Timing Belt (Continental, German OEM)
2. Idler Pulley (Continental, German OEM)
3. Tensioner Pulley (Continental, German OEM)
4. Hydraulic Tensioner Cylinder (Febi/Aisin, German)
5. Water Pump (Genuine Volvo or German Hepu, I used Hepu)

Items 1-3 come in one package of kit. 4 & 5 must be bought separately.

Required Tools:
1. Torx bit for the tensioner pulley. (T45?)
2. Torque wrench.
3. Scraper & Scotch-Brite (for water pump gasket removal).
4. Water pump sealant (not necessary but I used it on water pump gasket mating surfaces to ensure leak-free installation).
5. Thread sealant for water pump bolts (the bolts may come with sealant already appliedto threads).
6. 7" opening bench vise (just in case).
7. Vise-grip/Locking plier.
8. Correction fluid (to mark cam pulley timing marks & crank pulley timing mark)
9. Servicing Manual/Instructions from Volvospeed.com (http://www.volvospeed.com/Repair/timingbelt.htm)


Tips for Procedure:

Clean the timing belt & crank pulley areas thoroughly before proceeding (To avoid getting oil/dirt on the belt).

Some people remove the crank pulley, but I didn't. It's much easier with the pulley removed, but should you decide to do it with the pulley in place, the hardest part is to get the belt past the rubber detent behind the crank pulley. The gap is EXTREMELY limited and you'll have to bend the belt, but this shouldn't weaken the belt. Just make sure that no oil gets on the belt.

Next trick is to removing the tensioner pulley. This is held by one Torx, and expect this to be VERY tight. It's easy to strip, so make sure you find a tool that let you have FULL contact with the Torx. I ended up stripping it, but I used Vise-grip and grabbed the flange around the Torx and turned the entire thing. This broke the initial torque and the rest turned with finger. The access is extremely limited, so you may have to grind down the Torx bit and make it shorter.

Next trick is to installing the hydraulic tensioner. The new tensioner comes with a pin that's holding the tensioner. DO NOT remove this pin until the tensioner is in place. When the tensioner is installed (watch out for the correct facing direction), grab the pin with Vise-grip and yank it out FAST. If you try to remove it slow, the pin will get stuck and it'll be difficult to remove.

When everything is in place, turn the crank pulley by hand for 3-5 revs. I used both Haynes' manual & the instruction at Bay-13 at Volvospeed.com to ensure correct procedure.

---END OF COPY---

As to the pulleys, they may not need replacing unless they exhibit noise/play. I replace them at every other belt change. Considering their price, I just think they are good investments but this is my subjective opinion. As to the water pump, the original unit seems to be quite robust, and it may not need replacing if you don't see any coolant seepage. I replaced mine, as there was a seepage.

Even though the procedure is straightforward, there are a few tricky areas you have to pay close attention to. The hydraulic tensioner (small cylinder that is pushing against the tensioner pulley) is one of them, it has to be compressed & locked with a drill bit before re-installation (new one comes with a pin already installed), and dealer uses special tool to compress this little thing. I used 7"-opening bench-vise, took it easy and spent 20 minutes compressing it, but it ended up leaking some oil so I scrapped it. Even with several droplets of oil, it still seemed to exhibit strong tension but I wanted to make sure and bought a new parts.

The timing marks on camshaft pulleysare difficult to see, so I enhanced them with correction fluid (white-out). Don't try to mark your own, stick to the original marks. As for the crank pulley mark, there is actually an obvious botch right by the pulley, which neither Haynes nor Bay-13 mentioned. But if you can't find it, I suggest that you use correction fluid on the original timing mark just to make it easier to see.

>obviously need to make sure I have done my homework before I pick up a tool.
Yes, indeed. I did my homework too before starting the procedure.

Allow yourself sufficient time and try not to hurry on this procedure. I believe you'll do it right with Mr. Tech's advice.

Regards,


JPN

 

JPN, info2x and B1mmer,

Thank you for your input. In theory I am now ready for this job, need to order parts and get on the job.

Folks like you and tech make this a great place, I must have saved about $1000+ from advice in this forum and jobs that I did on my own.

Regards

 

I do everything mentioned here except the Water Pump. Been driving Volvo's since 1985 and never had a water pump go bad on my. This is just my opinion, but it will save you some money. Definitely do the hydraulic tensioner.

 

Hello again,

I just wanted to add a bit more tips, in order to gain access to the timing belt area.

I believe you need to remove the serpentine accessory belt. In order to do this, you need to relax the tensioner pulley with a 1/2" drive breaker bar & a 3/4" adapter. Now, Volvo uses perfect-fit special tool to do this, but it can be done with a 3/4" adapter. It may slip, but in time you'll be able to do this,note there is a tiny hole on the tensioner pulley and at the max relaxed position, insert an Allen wrench or whatever fits in the hole, so the tensioner stays at the relaxed position.

Also, you will need to take the coolant reservoiroff its nest (coolant draining is not necessary if you're not changing the water pump, it won't leak out as long as the cap is tight) and I removed the ECU's. This gives you much better clearance to do the job. Now, before removing the ECU's, make sure to disconnect the battery, wait at least 15 minutes for the relays to turn off, then remove the 2 ECU's, trying not to touch the male connector tangs at the bottom of each ECU, as they may get fried by static electricity. I would put them in a safe area. I would also cover the female connectors with a duct tape to keep dust out.

Make sure to turn the crank pulley by hand (breaker bar & extension & 22mm? socket) for 5 times (or more) when everything is back in place, and make sure that nothing is clashing.

Wish you the best,


JPN

 

I did mine without removing the ECU, but it was a tight squeeze I have to admit. I took the 3/4 inch adapter and ground it down with a grinder until I could fit it in the pulley to losen the accesory belt. Then I turn it with a wrench on the adapter since I could not get the breaker bar in there. It worked and I never had to mess with the ECU. I was not doing the timing belt though, just taking the Power Steering off so I could get to the coolant temp sensor. This was on my 98 V70 not the 850 though. I think the 850 has a little more clearance.

 

I did my timing belt the same way as JPN, but unlike JimKW, I didn't need to grind my 3/4" adapter to remove tension from the serpentine belt. As JimKW alluded to, the 850 probably has more clearance (and maybe a different size squared hole for the tensioner), for I was able to easily get my breaker bar in there with the adapter and remove the belt. - AB

 

Sorry was Busy with B-day and a few other things everyone has it covered already.