Does anyone have any instructions on how to replace the timing belt? LOL i dont know where to start.

 

If you truly don't know where to start, then a timing belt may not be the right thing to learn on.

If you still decide to do it yourself, run a search on Volvospeed, for I know the instructions are out there. - AB

 

Try this link. It was a good guide for me

http://www.volvospeed.com/Repair/timingbelt.php

Glenn

 

Make sure you get it timed right or you will be looking for a new head. When you get it done turn it over by hand two or three times at least before trying to start it. If you turn it so far and then it feels like it's really stuck you probably don't have it right. Wish I would have done that before trying to start it. Had to have two valves replaced. Most Volvo shops charge about $300 to do the timing belt. I spent over $1,000 having my head redone and buying all new gaskets to put it back together. I know quite a bit more about my engine now though.

 

Hello Viraaj,

Enough said by other experts, so I'll add some info from my own experience.

Before you start, get the following items:

1. Service manual (Volvo factory is preferred, but Haynes will do on this particular procedure).
2. Print out the instruction from Volvospeed.com (read & compare with another manual for better understanding of the work).
3. Buy OEM (Continental Tech) components (belt, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, water pump and may be a new hydraulic damper).
4. 1/2" drive Socket (22mm?) that fits on the crank pulley nut + 1/2" drive extension + a breaker bar.
5. Torx T45 (T40?) for the tensioner pulley removal & installation.
6. A torque wrench.
7. A large bench-vise, if you decide to reuse the hydraulic tensioner.
8. Allow at least 2 days, if you've never performed timing belt work

If you are confident, go ahead and attack it but make sure you read the instructions/manuals a few times and get a picture of how the procedure is like, but if you are not confident, you might want to have it done at Volvo dealer. As Mr. JimKW has noted, the procedure requires utmost care and if something is not right, the pistons will hit the valves and damage either/both. Giving $300 to the dealer is better than $1,000 for a new head.

There are two very tricky parts to the procedure:

1. Installation of hydraulic tensioner. This little cylinder puts out incredible force (it bent my hex allen wrench), and it has to be "locked-in" before installation. A drill bit would be the best tool for this. And when you install the cylinder and remove the drill bit, you gotta remove it QUICK, or the drill bit gets stuck and you'll have difficulty removing it. (New Febi cylinder comes with pin already installed, so you just need to remove it after installation).

2. Removal of the tensioner pulley. This is held by one Torx screw and this may be extremely tight. Also, the access is very limited and difficult to get the full contact to the screw. This is a formula for stripping (and I sure did strip it). I used vise-grip and turned the flange, which broke it loose.

I hope it goes successful no matter which route you decide to take.

Regards,


JPN

 

Lol ahh ill just pay someone to do it for me, lol dont want to mess sumtin up like the valves, is $110 good price for replacemnt of the belt at goodyear?

 

$110 sounds awfully cheap, as if they are just changing the belt only. If I was doing a timing belt, I would change the everthing that JPN suggested, including the tensioner. Nothing worse than doing the work and have the tensioner fail and bend valves. I would think the dealer would charge about $500, for the parts alone cost me about $250. I think it took me about 5 hours, taking my time, but like JPN said, the tensioner pulley is a serious pain. I ended up cutting a torx bit to shorten it and it was better, but I would think the replacement unit should have a 10mm bolt on it instead of the OE torx. The bolt head wouldn't interfere and the timing cover would go on just as easy.

I would ask around for a reputable mechanic and see if you can buy the parts and have him do it. That would probably save you about $100 over the dealer cost. - AB

 

Hello again,

I agree with Mr. B1mmer that $110 is unusually cheap. If I were you, I wouldn't take the car to them. If you can find a shop that specializes in Swedish/European cars, that would be ideal but if not, you may have to bite the bullet and visit dealer.

I don't mean to put some technicians down, but for imported cars, dealers/specialized shops are the best bets. They may charge more, but in the long run it definitely pays off.

The repair also depends on how long you plan to keep the car. If you plan to keep it for more than 2 years, it may be worth the repair, but since 850's are getting old, they require many parts replaced. For a thorough work on 850's, parts alone can reach as much as $2,000-$4,000 range, excluding major engine/tranny work. But Volvo uses very high-quality steel, so the body stays rigid for many years and it's hard to find rusts (I used to drive 1998 Accord and the body was full of rusts).

Anyway, if you intend to keep the car for a year or two, belt change alone may suffice (though no one can guarantee the integrity of peripheral components). But I am not sure if Goodyear techs work on Volvos often.

Best wishes,


JPN

 

lol thanks for the info, duno if i should believe the goodyear techs tho, they said that the tensioner pully is perfect in the car and does not need to be replaced. I specificly asked them about it. Anyways what happens to the tensioner pullys to cause them to be replaced?

 

I changed my hydraulic tensioner but not the pulley when we did my valve job. The local independent Volvo shop here in Columbus, OH charges right around $300 for the timing belt change. They do the tensioners every other time and that costs more. I have mechanic friend who is very good with most any car, and I would trust him in a minute to do my timing belt. But I know he wouldn't do it for $110. Remember the old rule "You get what you pay for". I would stay away from places like Goodyear when it comes to working on your Volvo. I won't even let those type places change my oil.

 

kk thanks for the info, one more question, is there anythin i have to look for that will tell me i have to replace it or does it just break like that? some people r tellin me that since the car has 73,000 miles it probebly is not a problem but other peope tellin me it is.

 

Service interval is 70,000 miles.

 

Hello again from rainy Chicagoland.

In regard to your question, the hydraulic tensioner probably doesn't need replacement, if this is the first time the timing belt gets changed (rather low mileage for a 850). Like Mr. JimKW, I replace the hydro tensioner every other belt change. But you might want to do the water pump too, as you'll be disappointed to see coolant leak from the timing belt cover soon after doing the belt (I recommend either genuine Volvo or Hepu-German pump). If you're not hearing noise from the timing belt area, other pulleys are probably ok too. I replace other pulleys at every other belt change as well.

A failing hydro tensioner may be noticed by oil leak. There is liquid inside the tensioner, and if you see a leak then the seal is about to fail. If you see liquid leak from the top of the tensioner, replace it. If not, you can probably wait until next belt change (Volvo recommends every 70,000 miles, but I do it every 60,000 miles).

FYI: A dealer technician at Bay-13 at Volvospeed recommends belt replacement every 5 years, even if you didn't reach the specified miles.

In choosing a shop, I 100% agree with Mr. JimKW. The reason to avoid franchise shops (my prejudice included):

1. Techs at those places are often entry-level or not top-notch on specific mfg.
2. They use cheap aftermarket parts you've never even heard of, rather than using high-quality OEM.
3. Again, you get what you pay for (except I believe that new car dealers charge a bit too much).

A good example is oil change. Oil change is a simple job, which requires attention to detail. Many technicians omit the process of putting oil on the filter O-ring, which is an important procedure for leak-free installation. Also, many of them over-torque the drain bolt, not using the correct washer, overfilling the engine (results in poor fuel economy or engine damage due to liquid lock), etc...

When I lived in Vermont, there was (still is) a top-notch ASE technician (Jim's Imported Car Clinic):

http://www.jimsimported.com/business.html

Jim is the owner of the shop and has a number of factory training certificates, especially on Saabs. When I had an Accord, I used to go to Jim & the dealer only. Jim was also kind enough to let me watch while he worked on my Accord. Many of Jim's expertise were incredible, Jim would've been a better spacecraft technician than those at NASA.

Anyway, choose your shop wisely.

Good luck,


JPN (KK)

 

Thanks

 

If you have an 850 with only 73,000 miles, that is great. But if the timing belt has not been changed, GET IT DONE NOW. The interval is, like Mr. JPN said, every 70K or five years whichever comes first. There is a chance that the belt has been changed though. If it has been, find out when and go five years or 70K from that point. Most good shops put some kind of sticker on when they change it, or maybe you have service records. If you don't know play it safe and change it.