Im working my a friends S70 non turbo 2.4 ltr.... and the tensioner broke..... but the belt did not come all the way off... it did however burn a hole through the cover all the way around it.... it jumped time as we started it at the house just driving it only minutes before this happened.. car was not running when this happened!!!.... went to start it and heard a small rattle.. and the engine would not start..... cranking it a few times...

Popped the hood and seen that the belt had melted a hole around the cover..... and after finding some info on here.... found where the marks were on the lower gear... aligning it with the line on the block......... and finding the marks on the cam gears.... not being 100% certain on where marks are supposed to be aligned... i think i have it..... please let me know if it is right or not in the photo....... the forward most cam gear anyway..... the rear most should be pointed at the same little part of the plastic as well... right???? Any photos of what it looks like correctly aligned would be nice!!!.....

seeing that the rear most cam pulley is off from the location of where i think it goes... it seems to be off approx 5 teeth.... is this enough to have caused VALVE DAMAGE??????

We don't have the $ to buy all the new parts if there is going to be head/valve damage.... and we are hoping there is not!!!...

Any and all help would be great... as this is the only means of transportation they have right now and the only means of making money... Thank you guys, Kelly



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Did you say it did jump approx 5 teeth? Do you have auto tensioner? Any loud banging pinging sounds when it jumped? Any flames out tail pipe or backfiring? I will check into some stuff for you, I would recommend NOT trying to start engine until you are 100% sure it is timed correctly .

 

Yeah, your camshaft pulleys look off to me. I would NOT start engine if it was mine. I think they should be closer to 12 o'clock position. That looks far enough off to me to cause damage, so I would be very careful. You might want to wait and see if someone else here has better specs for you. Good luck to you, I hope everything is ok with it!

 

well,.... no loud pops bangs, snaps or anything.... what little pop i did here i think was the ball bearing that fell into the bottom of the crank gear area..... as when i took off the cover they fell everywhere!....

Yea, it is the mechinal kind... the ***** all fell out!... bummer!

The car did not even start at all... drove it up... turned it off... and was running fine...... came back out a few minutes later...... and tried to start it... heard one little strange pop..... and crankity, crankity, crankity..... there was nothing!...... no back fire or anything.....

Thanks for the info guys..... is the cam pulley on the right in the photo.... is there where it should be pointed when i put it all back together????... thanks again, Kelly

 

Since the T-belt is not that hard to access I would buy the tensioner and belt and line everything up to see if if runs. You might get lucky. I think this would be the fastest way to find our.

 

Well.... it must have been enought.... I bought a new tensioner, t-belt, water pump and cover for it (since this one got burnt thought by the old belt!).... was able to get it to fire up with all the new stuff on it... but ran very rought!!!.... i pulled all the plugs and done a compression test on all 5 cylinders..... they read:

0-0-134-0-140

NOT GOOD!!!!

Im sure there is not anything i could have missed.... with one tick mark on the cam gears... i cant have a cam 180 degrees out or anything, right?.... the bottom was lined up perfect... as with the cam gears... tick marks were pointing right at the arrow part of the marks on the top cover..... Any thoughts?.... sources for valves other than dealer?.... or perhaps a used head?....

 

If you decide on a new head make sure you get the head and cam cover together since they are milled out of one piece. When I did mine I took my existing head to a machine shop and had them replace the valves and mill the head. I think the cost was around $300 for just the machine shop. The gaskets can get pretty darn exensive too. I would start by taking the head off and see what's going on inside before doing anything else. It's not really that tough of a job. Kind of a pain, but not real tough.

 

To be honest... i work on Honda engines a lot and i'm very good at this type of engine.. but Volvo's straight 5.... i'm not too keen on... so this will be a learning process...

If i have the tick marks lined up, up top and on the crank.... there is not any way or reason for the 1,2,and 4 cylinder to not be building compression except for a bent valve right???????... other than a hole in the piston... right????.... very important question before i take the next month working on this thing!... also.. anyone know of a place to buy used heads?...thanks guys, Kelly

 

Pretty sure you answered your own question about the 1, 2 and 4 cylinders. Hard to imagine any other reason for having compression in two and not the other three. Lets hope it's all in the valves though. My son in law had never touched a Volvo before taking the head off of mine. Him and my daughter now own a 95 850 Turbo wagon.

You can find heads on the internet. I have had very good luck buying parts from Erie Volvo used car parts. These cars are at just the right age where finding most any part used is very easy to do. Volvo and Saab Dismantlers is another place I have used when Erie didn't have what I wanted. There is also a place that specializes in used engines. See the pinned thread at the top of the General Forum for many places.

 

The valves are bent.
As long as it didn't crack the guides you will be fine with dropping new valves in.

 

Anyone know what i should expect to pay for a used head?..... vs..... rebuilding this one?... are guides avail for this head... as i hope they are press in like the rest of the import world!.... but im thinking a used head might be in order... as my father in law does not have the $ for me to rebuild this head right now... and being down a car is not good....Thanks for all the help guys!!!, Kelly

 

Guides are avalible but they are only copper guides which will wear out really fast.
The Valves are also like $50.00 each valve.
I would say just try to locate a used head and drop it on there and call it a day.