Upper engine strut torque mount
on mine the rubber is toast so I need to replace it. I found it here: 9434263 Aftermarket - Torque Rod Bushing (upper Engine Mount) - URO Parts 9434263 - Free Shipping
This is the picture:

I assume it is pressed in and I need to press the old out and new in.
Any tips?
This is the picture:

I assume it is pressed in and I need to press the old out and new in.
Any tips?
I have to learn to look first more and ask later. As usual I found my own answer here: http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/rep...e-bushing.html
Any other info welcome. Is the part listed an OEM style or a poly style replacement part? Anyone bought it?
Any other info welcome. Is the part listed an OEM style or a poly style replacement part? Anyone bought it?
1. If I was to do this again, I would purchase polyurethane bushing from IPD for approximately $20 which requires no special tools.
2. If you already have the URO aftermarket bushing, just make sure install (press-in) with the arrow pointing up. This will be a pain in the *** if you don't have the proper pressing tools. Don't ask me how I know

I hope this helps
Last edited by T5-Rennen; Jun 14, 2013 at 06:51 PM.
I just finished this job and am lucky to have a small 4T hand press. After you spend the time to set up everything so the fairly flimsy bracket can be supported and you have a way to push on the outside edge of the new part it's easy.
Part removal 1/2 hr, set up to press it, 1 hr (needed to find a small steel plate and cut a hole in it), pressing the part 1 min, reinstall 1/2 hr.
If you don't have a press I can just imagine how much fun this would be. IMHO Take it to a machine shop.
Part removal 1/2 hr, set up to press it, 1 hr (needed to find a small steel plate and cut a hole in it), pressing the part 1 min, reinstall 1/2 hr.
If you don't have a press I can just imagine how much fun this would be. IMHO Take it to a machine shop.

Mine kept pounding out and I'd use a "C" clamp to push it back in. Finally broke down and purchased a poly one from IPD. The install is dirt simple and no issues with any type of press as it just slips in and bolts down.
Plus the big blue block of poly looks cool sitting up there
Do you need to change the bushing where the mount attaches to the firewall, too?
I had 6 years the Poly part and it developed over the 6 years (almost 200.000km) a slight play which caused an anoying noise each time I took the foot off the gas pedal. So I put back the original volvo mount and WOW..The car drives so smooth and noisefree almost (at least under 3500rpm
).The poly part is naturaly harder and vibrations from the motor are more present in the interior.
Some people have complained about the vibration but I'm not so sure that isn't a matter of adjusting it properly when installing. If could also be that the engine is sagging on the other mounts and pulling down on the upper.
The suggestions for adjusting it are to loosen the mounting bolt and put it in drive so the engine shifts a bit and then tighten it down and if it's still bothersome, try doing it in reverse.
The suggestions for adjusting it are to loosen the mounting bolt and put it in drive so the engine shifts a bit and then tighten it down and if it's still bothersome, try doing it in reverse.
Mine shifts hard going into reverse: always has since i put in the poly top torque mount and IPD transmission mount. However, nothing moves when I change from park to reverse, so im okay with it. I'm sure the transmission mount has a lot to do with it.
You could always try to loosen and re-tighten with it in gear ??
Like you say about the transmission mount, but doing a little experiment with the way you tighten that top mount might lessen that feel.
Like you say about the transmission mount, but doing a little experiment with the way you tighten that top mount might lessen that feel.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rspi
Volvo 850
0
Jan 11, 2014 06:45 PM




