Volvo 850 Made from 1993 to 1997, this Volvo line was available in both a wagon and a sedan, both with were graced with several trim levels.

Upper engine strut torque mount

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jun 14, 2013 | 05:04 PM
  #1  
Catimann's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Default Upper engine strut torque mount

on mine the rubber is toast so I need to replace it. I found it here: 9434263 Aftermarket - Torque Rod Bushing (upper Engine Mount) - URO Parts 9434263 - Free Shipping
This is the picture:


I assume it is pressed in and I need to press the old out and new in.

Any tips?
 
Reply
Old Jun 14, 2013 | 05:23 PM
  #2  
Catimann's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Default

I have to learn to look first more and ask later. As usual I found my own answer here: http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/rep...e-bushing.html

Any other info welcome. Is the part listed an OEM style or a poly style replacement part? Anyone bought it?
 
Reply
Old Jun 14, 2013 | 06:47 PM
  #3  
T5-Rennen's Avatar
Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: The SLC
Default

Originally Posted by Catimann
I assume it is pressed in and I need to press the old out and new in.

Any tips?
I just had to do this on my T5-R. Here are my thoughts:

1. If I was to do this again, I would purchase polyurethane bushing from IPD for approximately $20 which requires no special tools.

2. If you already have the URO aftermarket bushing, just make sure install (press-in) with the arrow pointing up. This will be a pain in the *** if you don't have the proper pressing tools. Don't ask me how I know

I hope this helps
 

Last edited by T5-Rennen; Jun 14, 2013 at 06:51 PM.
Reply
Old Jul 16, 2013 | 12:47 PM
  #4  
Catimann's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Default

I just finished this job and am lucky to have a small 4T hand press. After you spend the time to set up everything so the fairly flimsy bracket can be supported and you have a way to push on the outside edge of the new part it's easy.
Part removal 1/2 hr, set up to press it, 1 hr (needed to find a small steel plate and cut a hole in it), pressing the part 1 min, reinstall 1/2 hr.
If you don't have a press I can just imagine how much fun this would be. IMHO Take it to a machine shop.
 
Reply
Old Jul 16, 2013 | 04:09 PM
  #5  
ibified's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,712
Likes: 1
Default

or, as suggested, get the insert from IPD. Total time to install that was about 15 minutes.
 
Reply
Old Jul 16, 2013 | 07:20 PM
  #6  
rspi's Avatar
Administrator
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 15,736
Likes: 36
From: Albuquerque, NM
Default

Most people freeze the bushing so it goes in easier.
 
Reply
Old Jul 17, 2013 | 11:11 AM
  #7  
Kiss4aFrog's Avatar
Administrator
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 4,517
Likes: 12
From: Cape Coral, FL
Default

Originally Posted by ibified
or, as suggested, get the insert from IPD. Total time to install that was about 15 minutes.
+ one more.


Mine kept pounding out and I'd use a "C" clamp to push it back in. Finally broke down and purchased a poly one from IPD. The install is dirt simple and no issues with any type of press as it just slips in and bolts down.
Plus the big blue block of poly looks cool sitting up there
 
Reply
Old Jul 18, 2013 | 07:59 AM
  #8  
johnwartr's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 313
Likes: 0
From: Columbus, Indiana
Default

Do you need to change the bushing where the mount attaches to the firewall, too?
 
Reply
Old Jul 18, 2013 | 08:26 AM
  #9  
scutyde's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
From: Berlin, Germany
Default

Do you need to change the bushing where the mount attaches to the firewall, too?
Normally not, but it's definetely not a bad ideea to have a look at it. It's pretty easy to change, you need to remove the plastic cover at the wipers.

I had 6 years the Poly part and it developed over the 6 years (almost 200.000km) a slight play which caused an anoying noise each time I took the foot off the gas pedal. So I put back the original volvo mount and WOW..The car drives so smooth and noisefree almost (at least under 3500rpm ).

The poly part is naturaly harder and vibrations from the motor are more present in the interior.
 
Reply
Old Jul 18, 2013 | 12:31 PM
  #10  
Kiss4aFrog's Avatar
Administrator
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 4,517
Likes: 12
From: Cape Coral, FL
Default

Some people have complained about the vibration but I'm not so sure that isn't a matter of adjusting it properly when installing. If could also be that the engine is sagging on the other mounts and pulling down on the upper.

The suggestions for adjusting it are to loosen the mounting bolt and put it in drive so the engine shifts a bit and then tighten it down and if it's still bothersome, try doing it in reverse.
 
Reply
Old Jul 18, 2013 | 01:44 PM
  #11  
ibified's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,712
Likes: 1
Default

Mine shifts hard going into reverse: always has since i put in the poly top torque mount and IPD transmission mount. However, nothing moves when I change from park to reverse, so im okay with it. I'm sure the transmission mount has a lot to do with it.
 
Reply
Old Jul 18, 2013 | 03:27 PM
  #12  
Kiss4aFrog's Avatar
Administrator
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 4,517
Likes: 12
From: Cape Coral, FL
Default

You could always try to loosen and re-tighten with it in gear ??

Like you say about the transmission mount, but doing a little experiment with the way you tighten that top mount might lessen that feel.
 
Reply
Old Jul 18, 2013 | 03:40 PM
  #13  
ibified's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,712
Likes: 1
Default

possibly. im not worried about it though.
 
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jg1
Volvo S70
11
Feb 7, 2016 04:26 PM
89bowtie
Volvo C70
2
Nov 3, 2009 12:17 PM
CaliS80T6
Volvo S80
7
Sep 12, 2009 09:20 AM
00XC
Volvo XC70
1
Jan 3, 2007 04:09 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:10 AM.