I bought my '96 850 GLT with 113,500 miles on it and it's at 175,500 now. I got my economic stimulus package last year and decided to stimulate the reupholstery industry and replaced the worn-out leather with new leather. Over the years, the car's developed some annoying quirks that I'd like to see if I can fix.

1. My power antenna motor doesn't cut off when the antenna has fully extended or retracted until the timer cuts it off 8 seconds later. Friends get in my car and they ask 'what's that loud gravelly noise?' New replacement antennas are over $200 though. Is there any way I can try to fix the motor myself? Maybe I could turn on the car, wait for the antenna to extend and then disconnect power to the motor so it just stays up and quits embarassing me with that noise. Will I get electricuted if I try that?

2. The driver's door stop pops loudly POP-POP POP-POP when I open and close the door. It doesn't hardly hold the door open anymore either. It appears that the door stop goes into the body frame of my car. Is there any way to access it for replacement? How the heck did Volvo install it at the assembly line?

3. There is supposed to be a hose that runs from a plastic black box on the upper left side of the engine compartment. It has electronics in it of all weird things. Runs somewhere to the upper front middle of the engine compartment, I forget where. This hose has always been missing on my car. What is the hose intended to do?

4. My front suspension is getting creaky and noisy, particuarly under 25 mph. What are the most likely suspects? I'm not sure my struts have been replaced... ever. The previous owner faithfully took it the dealer, that's all I know.

5. The engine torque spring mount on top of the engine has been cracked for the last 50,000 miles and I can't tell a difference. Should I care that it's broken?

6. The Volvo dealer said my ABS dash light was on because the control module is defective. They wanted $2000 to replace it. No thanks. Where can I find an ABS module for cheaper? Are Volvo 850 ABS modules notorious for failures or am I just especially unlucky?

As a reward for those who are still reading all my whining, here is a cool tip. You know how the brake pads and rotors the Volvo dealer puts on are super brake dust city? I got ceramic after market brakes from Meineke, HUGE improvement in brake dust reduction!

Thanks fellows.

 

This is a notorious problem with the 850's. There are many resources available on how to pull the module and either solder it yourself or send it in to...

http://www.modulemaster.com/en/index.php



they'll fix it fast and for $100.

Here is the guide on how to pull it.

https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-850-16/abs-controller-cover-removal-11104/

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...ic.php?p=46827

Thats all I know to tell ya on the questions. Hope it helps

 

1. Does the antenna fully extend? If not it could be as simple as replacing the antenna mast, they are under $20.00.

2. If you are lucky you just need a new doorcheck, if this has been going on for a while you may have broken the mount. Pull back the rubber dust cover and inspect the anchorage. Avoid the Scan Tech replacement door check, I bought one and it only lasted about 6 months.

3. Yes there is a line that runs from the top of the fan shroud to the ECU compartment.
The replacement is here:

http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...category_id/10

4. The suspension noises could be about anything. Ball joints, tie rod ends, and swaybar links are common culprits. It is a matter of jacking the car up and checking them for play - they should have none.

5. The upper torque arm was put there for a reason and if it is broken it should be replaced. If the cracks are vertical that is normal.

6. As was stated, you need to either repair the module get the module refurbished. There are two kinds of '96 and later modules - those that have broken and those that are going to break.

...Lee

 

To expand on what Ozark said, look around the area in which the door check attaches to your pillar on your car. If there are hairline cracks your weld is shot.



See this page about fixing it. Or you could do what I did, and remove the door check itself (you just have to take your interior door apart, it takes about 5 mins). Otherwise you will continue to fatigue the metal and eventually tear the weld out completely, and be left with a 2"x2" hole in your door.

 

VLV World is an online Volvo parts store that has an Outstanding catalog which provides photos and maintenance tips for doing your own work.......the most extensive Volvo catalog I've found from an online parts store. I don't know if their prices are the best online prices or not but certainly beat the Volvo Dealers' prices I'm sure. Today I ordered from this palce a Volvo OEM Locking Lug Nut Set for my 1989 Volvo 740 GL Wagon to use on the new Volvo OEM Hydra 16 alloy wheels I'm going to install and also new replacement lug nuts. My Volvo Dealer Parts Dept said the Volvo OEM lock nut set isn't available anymore through Volvo but this online store has it and the new lug nuts were less than $1 each while my Volvo Dealer priced theirs at $5 each. In some cases, this online store indicates used parts for an item probably since new ones are no longer available from Volvo. Here's the link to access their Volvo catalog of parts for each Volvo Model/Year: http://www.vlvworld.com/indexframe.html

 

The "pop, pop, pop" noise on your drivers door is most likely the door check. Volvo had a design flaw on this, so I would imagine the probility is very high that yours is broken. Mine does the same thing and I got a price of around $130 to have it welded and repainted in that area. They generally have to take the door off to do this.