Volvo 850 Made from 1993 to 1997, this Volvo line was available in both a wagon and a sedan, both with were graced with several trim levels.

Volvo 850 difficult start, engine dies etc... HELP!

Old Jun 3, 2012 | 08:45 PM
  #21  
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Hurray!!! Sounds like you found your problem.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by rspi
Hurray!!! Sounds like you found your problem.
U think this is the issue? If I replace it, it will work fine?
Anyway, this Forum is awesome, looks like I need to work on my 262C as well... I see you had one too!!!
 

Last edited by rspi; Jun 3, 2012 at 10:07 PM.
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 09:00 PM
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I would say most likely that is the issue. If you could borrow a used one that will tell you right away.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 09:03 PM
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I don't see where I could borrow one unless it's the same kind on a 740 but I doubt it. Are they pricey?
 
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 09:05 PM
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Yes they are pretty pricey.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 09:09 PM
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Oh well I will see what I can do. I will replace the O2 sensor as well and will keep you guys posted. Thanks so much to all of you, you are all super helpful and friendly!
 
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 262740850
Yes I did notice the past 6 months the temp gauge doing strange things but nothing worrying.... more like tiny quick fluctuations like you describe. Since I replaced the radiator 2 years ago, I assumed it had something to do with it...
My gauge was making tiny fluctuations like that, when I had a issue that pretty well mirrored yours. My coolant temp sensor was throwing intermittent low readings, and causing it to flood at idle.

Being that the MAF is rather expensive (and I HIGHLY recommend an OEM Bosch unit if replacing), personally I'd clean the MAF, and replace the coolant temp sensor. At ~$40, it's money well spent on something that is almost certainly at least contributing to your issue (gauge should not move once operating temp is met, unless you are overheating, I think about 240F it starts going up past center).
 

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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 10:09 PM
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I would get one from a jy car is money is an issue. Some junk yards give warranties.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Turkey_Sandwich
My gauge was making tiny fluctuations like that, when I had a issue that pretty well mirrored yours. My coolant temp sensor was throwing intermittent low readings, and causing it to flood at idle.

Being that the MAF is rather expensive (and I HIGHLY recommend an OEM Bosch unit if replacing), personally I'd clean the MAF, and replace the coolant temp sensor. At ~$40, it's money well spent on something that is almost certainly at least contributing to your issue (gauge should not move once operating temp is met, unless you are overheating, I think about 240F it starts going up past center).
Will do! Btw one problem I have in winter and keep forgetting to fix once the long TX summer starts, on the freeway when it's cold, the temp of the coolant stays LOW and never get even close to the halfway mark. Stuck thermostat?
I have been too lucky with this awesome car that I think I slightly neglected her maintenance and now it's catching up with me. 2012 will be the year I fix what needs to be ;-)
 
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 10:22 PM
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Likely the thermostat is just old and worn. The spring wears over time and doesn't close the valve all the way causing the car not to warm up properly. A lot of people replace the temp sensor when they do the thermostat because you have to have the stat housing off to get to the temp sensor.

Your motor is probably not getting warm as it is. Usually the neddle go to 3 O'clock when the temp gets to 165+. The engine is suppose to run near 190. A cold engine will run rich and waste gas. A thermostat is the best $12 you'll ever spend on a car.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by rspi
Likely the thermostat is just old and worn. The spring wears over time and doesn't close the valve all the way causing the car not to warm up properly. A lot of people replace the temp sensor when they do the thermostat because you have to have the stat housing off to get to the temp sensor.

Your motor is probably not getting warm as it is. Usually the neddle go to 3 O'clock when the temp gets to 165+. The engine is suppose to run near 190. A cold engine will run rich and waste gas. A thermostat is the best $12 you'll ever spend on a car.
Will do! The list is getting longer but it's all good stuff.
btw if I need a MAF I checked on Ebay and the price seems ok... compare to some other sites...
 
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 10:40 PM
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For a Bosch MAF?

I can tell you from experience that the $50 aftermarket MAF I bought on eBay went in the trash can. My old MAF (that DID need replacing) was more accurate.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Turkey_Sandwich
For a Bosch MAF?

I can tell you from experience that the $50 aftermarket MAF I bought on eBay went in the trash can. My old MAF (that DID need replacing) was more accurate.
ok then... I hear you. Btw, for the record and from my own experience, I never thought Bosch was that great, ever worked on a 262C ? OMG ;-)
 
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 11:27 PM
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Haha, I can only speak for the stuff of theirs that I have used, and there was a definite quality issue with the aftermarket MAF that I got.

The exposed heated sensor on the aftermarket unit looked like a homebrew solution compared to OEM.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Turkey_Sandwich
Haha, I can only speak for the stuff of theirs that I have used, and there was a definite quality issue with the aftermarket MAF that I got.

The exposed heated sensor on the aftermarket unit looked like a homebrew solution compared to OEM.
I won't go for the cheap stuff. Regarding Bosch engineering, they just seem to follow the philosophy of : why do simple when you can do complex... Just a thought ;-)
 
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Old Jun 4, 2012 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by rspi
A thermostat is the best $12 you'll ever spend on a car.
The second best is taking the thermostat housing torx screws to the hardware store and replacing them with hex head bolts, stainless if they have them. Either way use a little anti-seize for next time.

If you ever have those heads strip out on you, you'll understand why it's such a great idea to do it before it happens !!
 
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Old Jan 12, 2013 | 02:30 PM
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Follow up: I realize I never did follow up on that story. I did replace the thermostat which was broken, replaced the temperature sensor.
Regarding the MAF, I installed a new OEM Bosch unit and it fixed the problems. Thanks for all your help on that one.

On a different story, I continue to fix issues, I replaced the front Oxygen Sensor which was bad, now I am getting error codes P0131 & P0137 which relate to low voltage to the sensors.... I checked the connections but no luck.
P0131: O2 Sensor Circuit Low Volts (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0137: O2 Sensor Circuit Low Volts (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
Any idea what could cause both errors to come at the same time? The car runs great but I need to pass inspection soon but until this issue is resolved, it won't....
Thanks.
PS: as a reminder, I have a 1997 Volvo 850 NON Turbo 2.4L
 
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