volvo 850 no start. Codes and empirical observations
#1
volvo 850 no start. Codes and empirical observations
1993 850 glt 242,xxx on the clock. No significant repairs excellent car.
a more extensive intro in the new member introduction thread.
https://volvoforums.com/forum/new-members-area-4/newb-northern-ky-34299/
Problem:
1993 850 glt will not start. Coughs, so so close to starting but wont start.
Initial thoughts are fuel injectors/fuel injector relay, ignition coil, plugs,, or plug wires.
Codes:
A1
111
A2
112 (short term fuel mix too weak)
121 (MAF signal absent or faulty) * unplugged MAF still no start. (although possibly the original, cleaned thuroughly with maf cleaner carefully. Still no start.)
123 (coolant temp signal absent or faulty) * coolant gauge does not work.
512 Short term fuel mix to rich.
* doesnt 112 & 512 contradict one another?
A3
444
211
213
214
* probably due to the fact that the car has been sitting for three days*
A4
122
132
* not sure what this port reads & found now reference to this port any where online
A6
111
* appears no sensors are bad. Bought a multimeter today to check cam, crank and rpm just in case*
Fuel
Everything seems ok, filter moderately dirty although nothing to significant.
Some dirt, bugs and etc under the filter.
MAF code was thrown.
Baterry
Car cranks and almost starts consistantly so Im pretty sure battery and battery power is good.
no corroded connections.
* Body grounds look suspect. They are simply heavy metal wires running from the engine to the body. Shouldnt they be encased or covered??
Just an observation.
HELP!!! lol
Car sputters, coughs and etc but wont start. its sooooo close. Check engine and service engine light were intermittently present prior to occurence.
However, car also had the famous intermittent 850 stalling problem and would occasionally stall out for no reason and then typically restart or restart on 2nd try.
* Note, seemed to not die if car was maintained at high rpms. If car began to sputter and die out a quick pedal mash would keep it alive and the car never died if idled high at stop lights with foot on the accelerator.
Cold mornings were tough to start, however, eventually always started and once running it was good to go.
Any ideas?
Where should I begin my search.
a more extensive intro in the new member introduction thread.
https://volvoforums.com/forum/new-members-area-4/newb-northern-ky-34299/
Problem:
1993 850 glt will not start. Coughs, so so close to starting but wont start.
Initial thoughts are fuel injectors/fuel injector relay, ignition coil, plugs,, or plug wires.
Codes:
A1
111
A2
112 (short term fuel mix too weak)
121 (MAF signal absent or faulty) * unplugged MAF still no start. (although possibly the original, cleaned thuroughly with maf cleaner carefully. Still no start.)
123 (coolant temp signal absent or faulty) * coolant gauge does not work.
512 Short term fuel mix to rich.
* doesnt 112 & 512 contradict one another?
A3
444
211
213
214
* probably due to the fact that the car has been sitting for three days*
A4
122
132
* not sure what this port reads & found now reference to this port any where online
A6
111
* appears no sensors are bad. Bought a multimeter today to check cam, crank and rpm just in case*
Fuel
- Fuel pump comes on, I can hear it in the car & at the filler and at the access compartment.
- All relays click on, have not jumpered any bc they all seem to click on.
- Fuel pump and filter were changed about 1,000 miles ago.
- Pinched fuel line at the fuel rail and could feel fuel pressure when I had the gf turn the igntion on
- smells like gas when I try and start it.
- no specific reference to Finject relay in haynes manual (where is that thing?)
Everything seems ok, filter moderately dirty although nothing to significant.
Some dirt, bugs and etc under the filter.
MAF code was thrown.
Baterry
Car cranks and almost starts consistantly so Im pretty sure battery and battery power is good.
no corroded connections.
* Body grounds look suspect. They are simply heavy metal wires running from the engine to the body. Shouldnt they be encased or covered??
Just an observation.
HELP!!! lol
Car sputters, coughs and etc but wont start. its sooooo close. Check engine and service engine light were intermittently present prior to occurence.
However, car also had the famous intermittent 850 stalling problem and would occasionally stall out for no reason and then typically restart or restart on 2nd try.
* Note, seemed to not die if car was maintained at high rpms. If car began to sputter and die out a quick pedal mash would keep it alive and the car never died if idled high at stop lights with foot on the accelerator.
Cold mornings were tough to start, however, eventually always started and once running it was good to go.
Any ideas?
Where should I begin my search.
#2
https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-850-16/wont-start-34277/
Ok, so injector relay is on the fan shroud but, im not sure which one it is?
Similar problem although, somewhat different circumstances.
Ok, so injector relay is on the fan shroud but, im not sure which one it is?
Similar problem although, somewhat different circumstances.
#4
new evidence
Car has spark. I took out the plugs and ground them to the engine and walaah! Spark. But, that still doesnt tell me what the problem could be.
Any advice guys?
I have checked the fuel
spark
and Im pretty sure the air is ok. Their is a humming when I turn the key on that I can feel and see so that piece sounds good.
1.) Would a bad mass air sensor cause a no start?
2.) Should I try the lawn mower syndrome trick? with oil in the cylinder
3.) Is their a way to test the injectors to make sure they are spraying without getting a test light?
Any advice guys?
I have checked the fuel
spark
and Im pretty sure the air is ok. Their is a humming when I turn the key on that I can feel and see so that piece sounds good.
1.) Would a bad mass air sensor cause a no start?
2.) Should I try the lawn mower syndrome trick? with oil in the cylinder
3.) Is their a way to test the injectors to make sure they are spraying without getting a test light?
#5
Thanks for all the input everyone. lol
If you run into this problem try the lawn mower syndrome fix first. I spent two weeks of analyzing codes and testing circuits and then five minutes of removing the spark plugs and adding oil to each cylinder it started on the second crank and I drove it home (100 miles) no problems and it drives every day!
heres to reaching 300k
If you run into this problem try the lawn mower syndrome fix first. I spent two weeks of analyzing codes and testing circuits and then five minutes of removing the spark plugs and adding oil to each cylinder it started on the second crank and I drove it home (100 miles) no problems and it drives every day!
heres to reaching 300k
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