Volvo 850 Made from 1993 to 1997, this Volvo line was available in both a wagon and a sedan, both with were graced with several trim levels.

Volvo 850 Oil Pan

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  #21  
Old 12-07-2009, 08:11 PM
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It's almost a shame that I can't just remove the lines off the oil thermostat/cooler and just have him buy a new one. It would definitely save the aggravation of extracting the bolts. I already know that he has an oil leak up by the turbocharger anyway...
 
  #22  
Old 12-16-2009, 07:54 PM
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As for the cooler on the side of the pan, anyone know where those lines go to exactly? I'm kind of at the end of my rope here when it comes to personal experience. I've done quite a bit of automotive work but I have not extracted many bolts before, especially not ones like the recessed hex bolt that is in front of the other two torx bolts. So far, no drill bits have worked and neither have any of the "bolt extractor" bits. It's a real shame that they aren't typical hex bolts or this job would be done by now...

Is it possible to just disconnect the lines that are routed to that cooler? If so, I would rather just do that instead of spending several hours trying to extract the broken bolts.
 
  #23  
Old 12-16-2009, 07:59 PM
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Those lines go up to the radiator. You can unscrew then from the cooler. There is a t-30 through a cover then the lines will come out of the cooler.
 
  #24  
Old 12-16-2009, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by tech
Those lines go up to the radiator. You can unscrew then from the cooler. There is a t-30 through a cover then the lines will come out of the cooler.
The t-30 is on the radiator side of the lines? Just need to clarify so I know what I'm looking for when I go back to the car on Sunday.
 
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Old 12-16-2009, 08:30 PM
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When looking at the cooler it is on the right side where the lines go into the cooler.
 
  #26  
Old 12-16-2009, 10:23 PM
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Here are some pics to help.
 
Attached Thumbnails Volvo 850 Oil Pan-p1100948.jpg   Volvo 850 Oil Pan-p1100947.jpg   Volvo 850 Oil Pan-p1100949.jpg  
  #27  
Old 12-17-2009, 06:26 PM
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Those pictures definitely help! Sorry if I am dragging on a bit but I just want to make sure I go into this on Sunday with a full understanding of what I will be doing. Please bear with me!

So, I just need to confirm that the lines are going to be unhooked on the oil pan side of the lines - basically I am going to be unhooking the lines directly from the part that is "stuck" to the pan due to the stripped bolts? Or am I unhooking the lines from the radiator - or is the cooler separate and not built into the radiator?
 
  #28  
Old 12-17-2009, 06:41 PM
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They will come loose from the part with the stripped screws.
 
  #29  
Old 12-17-2009, 07:10 PM
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Unless you get those screws out you will be disconnecting from the radiator.
 
  #30  
Old 12-17-2009, 07:40 PM
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He cannot get the cooler off the pan. But the cooler lines will come out the front of the cooler if he removes the 1 T-30 screw.
 
  #31  
Old 12-17-2009, 09:03 PM
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I thought that was the problem, he cant get the T-30 out. maybe I need to go look again.
 
  #32  
Old 12-17-2009, 09:26 PM
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Unless I am getting it wrong he is having an issue with the 2 T-45 screws.
 
  #33  
Old 12-18-2009, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by tech
Unless I am getting it wrong he is having an issue with the 2 T-45 screws.
The issue I'm having is with those two t-45 screws that are securing the cooler to the pan. There is also a third screw to the front of these, also facing in the same direction, that was an inverted hex bolt of some size that is also stripped.

So, nearby these screws on that same assembly, there is a t-30 with the head facing toward the front of the car where the lines go into it?
 
  #34  
Old 12-18-2009, 03:56 PM
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Yes, confirmed what Tech is talking about. The Torx facing the front of the car. Looks like it can release the lines. You will also need to release the mount that is attached to the pan...follow the lines you will see what I mean.
 
  #35  
Old 12-20-2009, 01:52 PM
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I got that t30 off, but the lines still won't come out of the cooler. With the t30 also came a little bracket, and the only things they can possibly be holding is the lines. However, I have tried pulling on them and they still won't come out.
 
  #36  
Old 12-20-2009, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by tech
Those lines go up to the radiator.
I don't have turbo but I think I have the same pan with a blanking plate where the cooler lines go in. If it were me...... I think I'd remove these lines from the radiator so I could get the pan off and on the bench where I could have better access to the bolts I'm trying to get out, use some heat and stand on my feet instead of my head while trying to do it.
 
  #37  
Old 12-21-2009, 09:36 PM
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There is also a 10MM bolt going through the lines into the block like right behind the a/c compressor.
I think if you remove the lines from the radiator you will not be able to work the pan out with the lines attached.
 
  #38  
Old 01-11-2010, 06:52 PM
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Unfortunately, everything got buttoned up and I started the car only to find the engine damaged beyond repair. My friend did not inform me of the distance which he drove the car with the oil pressure light on. Turns out that it was at least five miles. How the engine did not weld itself together in that time is beyond me. Needless to say, there is nothing left to do.

So, this entire project has been a lost cause. I appreciate everyone helping me out over the course of this project. This is a really fine community and the time that you spent helping me with my questions means a lot to me.

Sincerely,
Jacob Perkins
 
  #39  
Old 01-11-2010, 07:40 PM
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Sorry to hear the motor is damaged.
Maybe you can buy it from him for really cheap and put a new motor in and drive it.
 
  #40  
Old 01-11-2010, 08:21 PM
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Personally I don't want to bother with it, however if someone wants a cheap parts car it's up for grabs.
 


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