I think the ecm only adjusts timing as it senses a rich or lean condition. I dont see how the slight change of overlap (remember, I didn't install the NA cams straight up, I adjusted them), would cause any readings that the ecm would need to pull timing.

 

RSPI: did you ever do the N/A cam swap?

If so, did you go with IPD's settings or ARD's?

IPD states those settings "if you want to maintain the same overlap", but I think that's misleading. They seemed to be only concerned (and referencing) opening timing. The N/A cams have more duration so they should take that into account too.

I am in the middle of swapping the N/A cams and intake manifold onto the 855T. Had to use a slide hammer to break the N/A cam cover loose; did you guys have to resort to that?

 

Different question:

Getting ready to install cams/cover and notice the o-ring seals around each of the spark plugs. Here's the IPD part number. It's after 5PM and IPD's closed.

Have you guys ever just reused them? The anaerobic sealer goes over them anyway, right?

 

No I have not had the time to install the cams yet because I will also install new valve stem seals when I do it. I'm waiting on a member here to ship me some seals. (Utum)

The only causion I would have with ARD's setting is if they are recommending the setting with one of their tunes or with the stock ECU that you have???

Some of those covers are hard to get off but I just took my time and pryed it open at the tabs. Doesn't really matter if you destroy the cover of a motor that you are not going to use.

A lot of people do reuse the seals as long as they were not torn when you pulled it apart.

 

I actually called ARD today and by chance Robert (aka Lucky) answered the phone, so I asked him about these settings because frankly I am confused as to what they are relative to (i.e. what's your beginning reference point). He said they are relative to the factory settings. That got us into overlap and all that, so I said, "what if I am taking N/A cams, with the sprockets, and installing those into a turbo head?" So he says for the exhaust cam, leave it (no adjustment needed) and retard (-) intake 4 degrees.

I need to go over IPD's docs and compare to ARD's again so i can get this straight in my head.

BTW: ordered my green tune today too; w/M4.4

RE: cam cover removal; i think slide hammer is only way go; I have a little hook attachment that gets under the pry tabs; just be careful and pull it evenly working between each of the six or so pry points. Had 2nd one off in few minutes.

 

Hello Volvo Drivers, first of all im very happy that some people still modify these old cars, but mostly because i own one. okay so, so far i know that you can swap over the n/a cams, intake manifold and throttle body, are there any other parts from the n/a car we can swap to the turbo models for performance gains, i happen to have both motors on me and i want to build one out of the two.

 

Not to my knowledge.

GDog, as for the 4 degrees, how does that work. If I am looking at the front of the motor, back towards the back of the motor (I'm looking at the cam sprocket). Which way do I dial the cam? Clockwise or counter clockwise? (The sprocket is loose and the belt is still on it).

 

If you look at the IPD tool, it has the letters A and R and single degree marks on it as a guide. I actually have one, too. The bolts should twist left to retard the cam and right to advance.

 

Left / Right, I assume you are referring to the top bolts. So, if the cam turns counter clock wise it is being retard?

 

Yeah, sorry. I'm used to the people I work with saying left or right. Counter clockwise. I work with an... interesting bunch.

 

No other N/A parts; you got it. Wouldn't say it makes a huge diff; someone on VS claims he got 11 more HP with the N/A cams. It's one of those things where these mods by themselves don't make a big change, but they help engine breathing even more with other mods. I think letting the exhaust breath would be my first priority if i were to do it again (that's what i'm working on now). BTW: only need the N/A intake manifold so Throttle Body (TB) fits properly; you can use the turbo manifold and bore it out at the TB mount point to match.

I would not attempt timing the cams w/o the IPD (or equivalent) tool. Otherwise you're guessing, and a few degrees can make all the difference. Tried several settings and ended up same as Boxpin's in post #14 of this thread: -2 on intake and +2 on exhaust. And read the directions (several times as necessary) that come with the IPD cam timing tool until they make sense to you.

 

I'm really torn on mods, I like to have the car stock. I would also like a little more kick. Therefore I want 2 cars, a sleeper and a stock car. If I do mods, I would want to test it after each mod to cut out all the guess work. That is actually easy to do with my ScanGauge. It has a horse power meter (not sure how accurate it is and it doesn't give me a torque / HP graph), and a 1/4 mile stop watch.

As for the NA cams, my understanding is that the biggest benefit of them is that they change the torque curve allowing you to get more of your HP sooner. There for giving you gains on all of your mods.