This has happened 3 or 4 times since I got the car. If the car is started a bunch of times in a very short time or the key is on with out the engine running for a while then when you go to start it it wont start. When this happens it cranks as normal but no start. If you jump it it starts right up. I took it in for an alignment today and it happened and I kept telling them to jump it, they kept saying that wouldn't help, and finally got pushy about it so they jumped it and it started first try. Any ideas as to what causes this?
The mechanic suggested I replace the wire from the battery to the starter but I don't see how that will help.

 

Cranking means starter is turning as well as the motor. Jumping it really shouldn't make a difference but if you say so.

I was having issues with my starter NOT engaging. It is/was an issue with my positive battery cable. What I did was take the connection apart (positive battery cable connection) and cleaned between the extra wires and the car starts fine now. Maybe you need to do the same.

Click here and see what you see. It should start around 6:55.

 

[QUOTE=rspi;355686]Cranking means starter is turning as well as the motor. Jumping it really shouldn't make a difference but if you say so.

I was having issues with my starter NOT engaging. It is/was an issue with my positive battery cable. What I did was take the connection apart (positive battery cable connection) and cleaned between the extra wires and the car starts fine now. Maybe you need to do the same.
QUOTE]
It will crank fine just no start until I jump it. I realize it doesn't make much sense. I think I will try cleaning those connections. Maybe the power is weak to part of the starting circuit other than the starter it self.

 

That's what I'm thinking. Corrosion can build up between those wire connections and maybe it's not powering something else. When you put the jumper cables on it, it completes the power cycle.

I am thinking about replacing the end of my battery cable. A lot of people replace the entire cable but maybe cutting the last inch or two off will be enough.

 

In looking at the + side connections there is the large wire with its connector and then a bundle of 6 wires with a separate connector end then a single wire with its own connector. A lot of places for a weak connection. Oh goodie more projects just what I needed It does make sense that this could cause all kinds of issues, should probably be on the list of first things to do with a new used car.

 

At this age, yes, you are correct. I wonder how many cars are getthing junked for this problem. No start, change starter, still no start, I give, call Pick-N-Pull. LOL

Some go for PNP problems, Oh, you need a new transmission. Junk it!

 

I think Phil 850 is close. I'd check out the connections at the battery and at the bottom of the fuse box.

When it cranks and doesn't start does it sound like it's cranking at normal speed or does it sound like it's slower ??

It's free, I'd swing by a NAPA, Pepboys, oreilly ... and let them do a battery check just to make sure it has the reserve it's supposed to.

It sounds like you just don't have enough voltage to allow the ignition system to fire. That would explain the start up immediately with a jump.

Also if you have a "Nut" on each side of the positive battery cable make sure BOTH are tight. You don't want to crank the heck out of them but they should be tight enough the terminal doesn't turn. One bolt actually tightens down the terminal to the battery post and the other just tightens down the cables leading off the terminal. Found that out the hard way with my engine killing and wouldn't restart. I assumed tightening either one would tighten it down .... opps.

 

1) I'll be doing this asap
2) Most of the time it starts with no problem. Only has an issue if the key has been on for a while with out the enging running or after letting it idle for an extended time. Even when it wont start it cranks at what seems to be normal speed.
3) I replaced the battery about a month ago and made sure to get one with plenty of reserve.
4) I'm thinking that I am not getting a good connection at the battery and It might be on a wire that goes to the ignition since it crank fine but no start in this situation. I have run into other situations where heat caused enough expansion at a point of contact to creat a bad connection even though a meter shows power.

 

[/QUOTE] I have run into other situations where heat caused enough expansion at a point of contact to creat a bad connection even though a meter shows power.[/QUOTE]

That's the difference between seeing voltage on a meter and being able to conduct amperage through the wire.

Why did you replace the battery ??

 

I have run into other situations where heat caused enough expansion at a point of contact to creat a bad connection even though a meter shows power.[/QUOTE]

That's the difference between seeing voltage on a meter and being able to conduct amperage through the wire.

Why did you replace the battery ??[/QUOTE]
The battery that was in the car when I bought it last year was not holding voltage even though the alternator is putting out high enough voltage, The battery was 5 years old as I remember and I think it was PNP considering the paint pen date on it also it had a low reserve rating.