This will destroy some engines
#61
01-06-2011, 08:53 AM
Right, because obviously I am horrible at time management. I mean, especially doing an engine swap, transmission swap, countless hours of maintenance, interior swap, having a full time job, full time class schedule consisting of a graduate 700 level class and other upper level classes, and all while only achieving a 3.8 GPA. **** me right?
And I'm on Winter break, I'm going to post the **** out of Volvospeed and here while I can. My post count will only go up.
And I'm on Winter break, I'm going to post the **** out of Volvospeed and here while I can. My post count will only go up.
#63
01-06-2011, 12:22 PM
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VPatrol: on your inner tie rod issue: why did I see today 3 or 4 people telling you the same answer to your question? Yet, you keep asking the same question over and over again!! Wasn't it you that Boxpin lost his patience with today?
The inner tie rod is not the problem with your Volvo. It is your incomprehension.
The inner tie rod is not the problem with your Volvo. It is your incomprehension.
Clearing my name here...I did not lose my patience I only type small amounts of information so it reads like I am short but I am not. In that case I looked up the prices of the parts and thought that might be the best option. I do think that inspector should have pointed out exactly what needed to be done though.
Henry10, I totally get where your coming from with this subject. The replacement mileage is recommended so you dont get yourself into trouble. If Volvo recommended replacing the belt at 120k and it broke at 90k you would be pretty pissed. So they are conservative even though it can last much longer they dont want to be responsible if it doesnt.
#64
01-06-2011, 02:39 PM
Clearing my name here...I did not lose my patience I only type small amounts of information so it reads like I am short but I am not. In that case I looked up the prices of the parts and thought that might be the best option. I do think that inspector should have pointed out exactly what needed to be done though.
Henry10, I totally get where your coming from with this subject. The replacement mileage is recommended so you dont get yourself into trouble. If Volvo recommended replacing the belt at 120k and it broke at 90k you would be pretty pissed. So they are conservative even though it can last much longer they dont want to be responsible if it doesnt.
Henry10, I totally get where your coming from with this subject. The replacement mileage is recommended so you dont get yourself into trouble. If Volvo recommended replacing the belt at 120k and it broke at 90k you would be pretty pissed. So they are conservative even though it can last much longer they dont want to be responsible if it doesnt.
Let's just end this.
#65
01-07-2011, 02:53 AM
Yo Zach, queer-boy: I used to beat up pretty boys like you in school. You are awakening old urges, boy. Or maybe I will introduce you to my ex-partner Tyronne (NYPD). See, he's got a long black python. I hear you into that.
I have had more cars in my life than you boys have had rice puddings. I chipped cars in the 80s when there were no chips.
Most people here fix cars so they can go to work for their families, or send their wives to work, or their daughters to school. You boys go to work so you could pay for your pretty wheels. I got no problem with that. But we do have a problem if you boys attack.
Here is a point for you: respect other people, especially older, more experienced and more successful than you. Give them the benefit of the doubt. Maybe they know something you sure don't. You STFU and listen.
If they tell you something you already know, just move on to other things in life, chase a girl, or boy (if that's what you like), but better yet, stop playing video games and go volunter at the Fire House, do something useful for this country or your community.
And don't ever attack someone you don't know, especially a New Yorker, especially, especially a veteran.
See, I continue to do my duty for this country -- I carry a BFH and ready to smack you boys in the back of your head when you deserve it. That's called teaching. At work, boys like you get up and salute old farts like me. They sure do remember who carries the BFH.
I have had more cars in my life than you boys have had rice puddings. I chipped cars in the 80s when there were no chips.
Most people here fix cars so they can go to work for their families, or send their wives to work, or their daughters to school. You boys go to work so you could pay for your pretty wheels. I got no problem with that. But we do have a problem if you boys attack.
Here is a point for you: respect other people, especially older, more experienced and more successful than you. Give them the benefit of the doubt. Maybe they know something you sure don't. You STFU and listen.
If they tell you something you already know, just move on to other things in life, chase a girl, or boy (if that's what you like), but better yet, stop playing video games and go volunter at the Fire House, do something useful for this country or your community.
And don't ever attack someone you don't know, especially a New Yorker, especially, especially a veteran.
See, I continue to do my duty for this country -- I carry a BFH and ready to smack you boys in the back of your head when you deserve it. That's called teaching. At work, boys like you get up and salute old farts like me. They sure do remember who carries the BFH.
You make me laugh.
WHY would I do anything for america when I'm NOT american ? Missing facts much ?
As for experience, I rebuilt the b20 with twin zenith strombergs (142s) in ~1980.
I don't need to 'attack' you, your doing that all by yourself by posting cryptic nonsense.
A new yorker, I don't care if you think your gandi/vishnu/god/madonas left nipple.
We all have our own special abilities, yours was killing people you know nothing about.
Or were you a cook ?
Either way, I really don't care..
TL;DR,
I don't care who or what you* are, someone is ALWAYS going to better than you*
I refer to You* as any random of the street..
If you believe I 'attacked' you, then maybe you need to have a stickectomy...
Wanna tissue ??????
#66
01-08-2011, 09:52 PM
I'm with Boxpin on the t-belt "recommended" change info. On the 740 GLE that I had with over 400,000 miles, I believe the t-belt recommendation was something like 50k and I never did it before 75k. Usually before 80k.
I believe time, miles, condition of other parts, etc has an impact of how long the belt can last before it snaps. The problem is, if it snaps, it's pretty much over with a 15 year old car. Repairs will exceed the value if the car is fixed by a real professional. When I purchased my 15 year old T-5R with 78k on the original belt, I really did NOT want to drive the car down the street, let alone 1/2 way across the country on that belt. There was several factors against me:
1. The car was from the north, where temps get real cold and the motor gets real hot.
2. The belt was older than 70k.
3. The age of the belt was beyond 7 years.
4. The rollers were old.
5. The tensioner was old.
6. I was not sure if the belt was ever contaminated.
I actually drove the car about 1,500 miles and I don't think I ever broke 70 mph longer than a minute. Long trip and frightened the entire way.
When I purchased my 960 with 55k on it, the belt was 11 years old. I wanted to drive that thing straight to the shop to have the belt replaced. Since I got the car the belt has been replaced twice. First at 58k by my mechanic and then again at 87k because the idler roller was seizing and water pump was leaking a little. I replace everything the second time.
IMO, I would replace the belt and everything with it as soon as I get one of these cars. Then replace the belt at 100k if I put that 100k on it within 5 years, provided that the rollers are in good shape. I would also replace the rollers every other replacement. And the water pump every third time or every 10 years which ever comes 1st. But when I think about it, who will keep these 12 to 15 year old cars more than 5 years? Well, with that in mind, I guess I should plan to replace my belt every 70k, do the rollers every other change if they seem to be in good condition, then the water pump every third change. I don't think the rollers last more than 150,000, and I don't think the water pump will last much longer than 10 years or 200,000 miles. I also doubt the tensioner will last much longer than 200,000 miles or 10 years.
Really, I would not risk driving one of these cars anytime at all if I did NOT know the history of the belt. I guess you can inspect it and check it every 5 thousand miles but who can tell if it will last another 20 miles or 10,000 miles???
Again, I repeat, if you are not sure that the belt, rollers, and tensioner has been replaced within the last 3 years or 25,000 miles, have it done as soon as possible. Use the instructions you find floating around here and save some $$$. It really is not that hard if you are at all handy. If you can't replace a light bulb in the bathroom without breaking something, leave it alone and have someone else do it.
Whatever all this is worth.
I believe time, miles, condition of other parts, etc has an impact of how long the belt can last before it snaps. The problem is, if it snaps, it's pretty much over with a 15 year old car. Repairs will exceed the value if the car is fixed by a real professional. When I purchased my 15 year old T-5R with 78k on the original belt, I really did NOT want to drive the car down the street, let alone 1/2 way across the country on that belt. There was several factors against me:
1. The car was from the north, where temps get real cold and the motor gets real hot.
2. The belt was older than 70k.
3. The age of the belt was beyond 7 years.
4. The rollers were old.
5. The tensioner was old.
6. I was not sure if the belt was ever contaminated.
I actually drove the car about 1,500 miles and I don't think I ever broke 70 mph longer than a minute. Long trip and frightened the entire way.
When I purchased my 960 with 55k on it, the belt was 11 years old. I wanted to drive that thing straight to the shop to have the belt replaced. Since I got the car the belt has been replaced twice. First at 58k by my mechanic and then again at 87k because the idler roller was seizing and water pump was leaking a little. I replace everything the second time.
IMO, I would replace the belt and everything with it as soon as I get one of these cars. Then replace the belt at 100k if I put that 100k on it within 5 years, provided that the rollers are in good shape. I would also replace the rollers every other replacement. And the water pump every third time or every 10 years which ever comes 1st. But when I think about it, who will keep these 12 to 15 year old cars more than 5 years? Well, with that in mind, I guess I should plan to replace my belt every 70k, do the rollers every other change if they seem to be in good condition, then the water pump every third change. I don't think the rollers last more than 150,000, and I don't think the water pump will last much longer than 10 years or 200,000 miles. I also doubt the tensioner will last much longer than 200,000 miles or 10 years.
Really, I would not risk driving one of these cars anytime at all if I did NOT know the history of the belt. I guess you can inspect it and check it every 5 thousand miles but who can tell if it will last another 20 miles or 10,000 miles???
Again, I repeat, if you are not sure that the belt, rollers, and tensioner has been replaced within the last 3 years or 25,000 miles, have it done as soon as possible. Use the instructions you find floating around here and save some $$$. It really is not that hard if you are at all handy. If you can't replace a light bulb in the bathroom without breaking something, leave it alone and have someone else do it.
Whatever all this is worth.
Last edited by rspi; 01-08-2011 at 10:09 PM. Reason: addition
#67
01-08-2011, 10:12 PM
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