Had a bit of a shakedown of my newly purchased c30 and had a propper look at bits that needed doing. I am no pro mechanic and due to a gravel driveway cannot lift the car. So bear this in mind when suggesting fixes.
Part of what I was checking over today was my aircon as it hasnt worked since I got the car the other week. I got someone to sit in the car and turn the aircon off / on and the compressor clutch does not spin
all the aux belts do spin and the compressor clutch moves freely when spun by hand. It isnt of the design of the ones that have the "zip tie" issue, so I presume that its an updated model and we can write that off as a problem.

I checked the fuse and replaced it just incase, which didnt do anything. I then disconnected the compressor clutch power lead (which I can reach fairly easily with the wheels on full lock) and tested it with a multimeter.
It read 0 volts. I would presume this means there is a break in the + wire from wherever it runs in the engine bay, to the compressor clutch. I followed the wiring up where it seems to enter a larger loom. If possible I want to avoid messing with this.

What exactly would be the next step here? Is it feasable for me to rewire this component? Where do the wires run from the compressor clutch, up to the fuse box? Could I realistically rewire this component without having to faf removing the old wiring, and just route it in
an easy place to get it to the clutch without having my car on a ramp? Am I missing anything else to test here?

 

Don't start by replacing a wire. I trust you have a $5 test light. Or your volt ohmmeter will work.
If you think there's a break in the wire going to the compressor you can test that easily with your ohmmeter - The GN-YE wire runs from the relay (terminal 5/87) to the compressor.

Here's a portion of the ACC wiring for a 2010 c30 5cyl . (you didn't give those details) The fuse sends power to the compressor Via a relay and the compressor relay is turned on by the ECM. It uses signals from things like the Evap temp,(too cold won't turn on) outside air temp,(too cold won't turn on) engine temp,(too hot won't turn on) and several others to determine when to activate the compressor relay. Do you have power at the GN-YE wire exiting the relay (terminal 5/87) with ac on and car running? Do you have power on both sides of fuses 35 and 27? Do you have a scan tool that will talk to all the control units in the car? After checking basic voltages that would be a good next step.

You can find a complete wiring diagram here
https://volvodiag.com/ewd-online-eng/

 

Hi, so I picked up the bits to do VIDA and just got it running. I noticed that regardless of my AC being turned on / off the "AC relay" value in the ECM was always "off". Should I be looking for anything else in VIDA in the ECM?

AC pressure was at 275.79 kPa

I also got a code for throttle valve system ecm-2008, which would explain my poor economy and kangarooing under acceleration. But im focusing on the AC for now
Do you know what exact modules of the car / sensors I would need to look at. I have a 2010 2.0 Petrol R-design (facelift) 5 speed manual, RHD.

 

Many parameters can prevent the ECM from turning on the ac relay. Evap too cold, outside air too cold, engine too hot and others.

Parameters in modules to check
CCM- A/c button, evap temp, cabin temp
CEM - Outside temp
ECM - A/c relay, A/c pressure, ambient temp, coolant temp

AND - You can activate the a/c relay manually under the activation tab.

 

Legend, thanks alot!
Just one more thing, this may sound stupid. But if I force the AC relay to turn on via VIDA, am I at risk from damaging components?
I know that the aircon will stop itself turning on if something isnt right, so if forcing ac relay to turn on is possible through vida, I should be careful that any non working
components arent critical to operation, for example its ok to turn on if a temp sensor for the cabin is dead but probably not wise if pressure drops too low?

 

Here is what I now see when I have what you have mentioned selected. The AC relay as mentioned before will stay off regardless of what the LED on the console says, I turned it to continuous on and it worked (or at least seemed to, its quite cold lol) it did indeed make the ac compressor clutch spin, so there is power going there.
The only thing I did notice was despite the center console LED saying "AC ON" and the button being on, the ac button value always stayed as "unpressed". The AC pressure does move, minimally so im pretty sure that sensor works. I didnt see it largely fluctuate though from AC relay on / off, I am not sure if I should.

As mentioned the only thing I notice is the button saying "unpressed" regardless of true position. Surely the center console button isnt broken though? Seems like a weird part to go, I suppose that is another "AC relay" situation where position reports off when there are issues with the system.

Any ideas from here?

 

These people can text and fix your CCM if needed. I understand they are an ocean away.

https://xemodex.com/us/product/clima...epair-service/