I bought a 2011 C30 that overheated and blew a head gasket. I got it from a dealer, so I have no history on the car, but it's got 82k on it and it was cheap, so I took a chance. I pulled the head, got it resurfaced and pressure tested, and I'm putting it back together. Did the first torque sequence at 15 ft/lbs, did the second at 44 ft/lbs, and then put a breaker bar on a socket to do the 130 degrees. First bolt in the sequence gets pulled to 130 on the angle gauge, and I'm pulling it with one hand, and it feels like about 20 ft/lbs. The bolt hole is stripped.

I see heli-coil kits online, but I've never used them on a head bolt. I also see multiple mentions on various Volvo sites that using a time-sert repair insert is a better option, but those inserts all appear to have a shoulder on them, so I don't see how they screw down into the block unless the block is machined with a countersink around the bolt hole.

Has anybody here successfully done this repair on a turbo Volvo block? Could this be the result of overheating? I don't think the engine has been apart before, so it's probably not from somebody over torquing it previously. If this is the result of overheating, I would imagine it's likely I'd run into this problem on other bolt holes as I go through the progression. I'd like to avoid that. Should I consider a stud kit? Should I consider this block toast?

Any thoughts appreciated.

 

On that type of application, a time-sert is a much better option than helicoil. Time-sert kits come with the countersink bit for the insert.

 

use the search thread feature - there's been some other discussions on time-serts and how to make sure you get the correct size/thread.

 

Yes, I know that. You can tell that I know that because I mentioned it in the original post. Have you ever actually seen a Volvo block with the head off? As I mentioned, the threaded portion of the bolt hole is at the bottom of the hole. An insert with a shoulder on it, that sits flush with the deck of the block and requires countersinking the hole into the deck, seems like it would not be the preferred method as it would alter the location of the stress point, and require one bolt to be different from the other 11.

Apparently the part about "I also see multiple mentions on various Volvo sites..." wasn't clear. I searched. Sorry, I must have missed the one specific post that spells it all out.

I'm reminded why I have an average of 0.07 posts per day, and often go years without visiting this site. It seems here that it's too often the people who have nothing constructive to say that want to say the most. Lots of other places to get info, fortunately.
Farewell all

 

Now and then it's good to pause in our pursuit of happiness and just be happy

 

to note, my comments are never intended to be condescending as posters and contributors have different experiences and skills and reading of one poster's issue helps others going forward. Some readers may never have heard of time-serts and may not have a full set of bookmarks on other forums and blogs etc so should you find a useful post or comment on other forums like Matthews, Swedespeed, Volvospeed etc, let readers know how you made out (good or bad). Good luck with your fix!