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How did you slide the feet into the plastic clips when it was already up? I'm at the point where i was pushing the clips through in the back and when I started the front, the back feet came of the clips, when I slide them back it's fine until I start to put the front on. The feet are secure with the JB weld, but the the clips are in the holes and sliding them back in seems impossible. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
I put the clips into the feet. I avoided sliding any thing. The clips slide into the feet and click in place. Then, I pushed from underneath into the holes in the roof. I had to push really hard to make the clips pop into the roof holes.
Thank you for the detailed instructions. I got my car in 2016 and had sagging within a year. My extended warranty would not cover the repair. Worst thing was that the dealer wanted $1,375 but would not warranty the repair, just like the subcontractor they wanted to use. I was just about to throw my hands up in frustration, until I found this forum and all of the help from members.
Again thank you for your help. I'm printing your directions so I can go outside and fix my top. It's lovely here in Maryland and I need wind in my hair.
Hey everyone, what are your thoughts on using rivets? I’m thinking of fastening the headliner to the clips with a small rivet. Others have brought up good questions regarding clearance between sections when the top is down. Could this be a feasible way to permanently secure the headliner?
Asking for a friend...he’s struggling between higher dealer estimates and repeat attempts by an upholstery shop lol :/
I used rivnuts. They are a threaded nut insert that goes into the metal hole in the steel roof. I then used machine screws and a flat washer to attach the cloth headliner to the top. This worked well for me and was done for under $30 for the rivnut kit and the cost of the machine screws and washers. I used a sharp pointed awl to puncture the headliner to install the screws into the rivnuts. The head of the screws show on the inside of the car. You could cover them with headliner upholstery or a push on cover that is headliner colored if that bothers you. The screws do not get close to the roof sections.
My roof had previously been repaired and the backing on the headliner was getting thin from removing adhesives that did not hold.
i bought the rivnut kit at Home Depot.
In the middle roof headliner, at the end of the rear triangular panels (drivers & passenger sides) there are elastic "cables; straps " that help place those panels in the right configuration when the top is up. These elastic "cables" are black, and have metal "T" ends that fit into holders.
Drivers side elastic strap
Mine are shot. Are there any out there for sale, or do I have to re-build them? Because they lost their elasticity, the rear quarter panels twist when the roof closes.
Thanks, all!
Tedders
Last edited by tedders; 07-15-2019 at 10:41 AM.
Reason: misspelling
I didn’t find jbweld
but found gorilla
is it okay ?
i used two part epoxy but it failed in nine months after three days parked outside the garage
was thinking maybe boat repair glues are in the sun a lot too.
Does anyone know what the material is that we are gluing to ?
I know the connector is plastic but what’s the board made of ?
and the heat is a big deal
maybe it has to cure under a/c rather than hot air in Florida???
After my repair all seemed well for six months but then the front panel seemed to get pulled down by thE front edge of the back section snaps flying and board warping
i wonder if anyone had that happen
all I knew when gluing was to use the previous space but maybe there’s a way to be more accurate by measuring?
I hired someone to do it for me but after seeing the clips still stuck in the car I probably could have done it myself. Still very pleased and it is still up a year later. The culprit.... my trunk leaks! I took it to Volvo a few years ago and they installed a new seal. Well, that wasn't the issue. The issue is the drain lines being clogged! (Another solution found on here) I have been successful at unclogging about 90% but I haven't had my windows fog up inside since then.
Originally Posted by PlatinumBrick
I fixed this with epoxy glue over the weekend. I used the Gorilla brand of the epoxy glue that had the highest weight rating of any I could find at Home Depot. The old glue on the fabric top looks a lot like Epoxy, hence my choice.
I found the retaining clips still stuck on the metal roof. I removed them (8 total) with the body panel removal tool, being careful not to break them in the process.
Once I get all flat pieces glue to the fabric top (all open ends toward the center), I inserted the clips. I let the glue cure for several hours before snapping the fabric top onto the metal roof.
So far so good! Took only 30min fixing and it's still there after several operations. If it drops again, I may take Romeer1's tip and fabricate the clip that goes thru the soft top into the metal roof. I measured the clip length for the future reference.
It's a lot easier to fix with the roof in the service position, as pictured.
The rear headliner in my 2011 C70 dropped this week. After reading multiple posts on this forum I decided to try the JB Weld Plastic Bonder. I removed the headliner from the car so I could clean the topside of the headliner where the clips need to be glued. Did the work yesterday, let the glue cure overnight, and reinstalled the headliner this morning. It snapped into place and feels solid. I'm hoping for a long term success.
I have a 2011 C70 and both sections of the headliner dropped this summer (in Connecticut). This is the second time the back section dropped - I glued the clips back in the previous time.The Volvo dealer suggested replacing the headliner ($3,400 with a lifetime warranty).
I used the rivnuts (threaded rivets) described here. I purchased a rivet tool to insert the rivnuts. I also used a rubber spacer to get the correct height in the headliner. The rivet tool was $78 but made the job much easier. I used machine screws with clear plastic washers on the interior. It looks great and will last longer than the headliner. A sharp awl also helps when aligning the machine screws with the rivnuts. It took me a few hours to finish.
I have a 2012 C70 convertible. The inner liner for my hard top came detached when the adhesive came undone. Took it to a local upholstery shop in town this morning (they do cars and boats). He said he won't do adhesive because it'll come undone again. For $125 he's going to put 8 clips in and then put a gray, smooth "button" over them so it'll look clean from the inside. He said he's done this with BMW hard tops. I agreed since I just need something done without replacing the entire inner roof. Let's see how it goes.
Folks, thought I'd update you (for any interested). I have a 2009 C70. Since I initially posted, my liner has remained intact. Granted, I park it under a carport, but so far the JB weld I applied has held up well. I had to redo my front liner several months after the back liner dropped, so I'm good for a while. In case anyone is interested, I followed both Joe7brothers and Platinum's advice, took my time, the roof was open in the service position (about half way up, then turned car off after I got it there). JB weld is the way to go! Glue the plastic feet to the underside of the liner where they were before, but make sure that the plastic part that is inserted into the roof is attached loosely to the plastic feet. That way, once the glue dries, you can just line up the holes with the roof and push the plastic pieces up (with a little pressure).
The only glitch I encountered (unrelated to the plastic clips) is that when I was repairing the front panel, somehow the two front tension strings for the right and left folding wings of the front liner got disconnected from their end brackets. these are the two Kevlar (?) looking strings that fold the right and left outermost sides of the front liner so that it folds correctly when opening the roof and unfold correctly when you close the roof (just prior to locking it closed). So, my tension strings are fine and the end brackets are still in place, except I can't put the strings back in w/o having to pry open the brackets, which are connected to the roof frame. AND, the kicker, I have to make sure that if I do this to re-insert them, they have to be reinserted at the right distance, so that they function as before - not too much pull and not too much slack.
Would anyone on this forum be willing to post a few good pictures of their roof in the open position? . I need to see pics from the side where the front liner tension strings are connected to the roof frame. The brackets are too small square pieces of meal that can pivot back and forward as the roof moves. They're held in place by a small star-like washer. It's easily seen by following the tension strings to the end point where the washer is. I'd really appreciate a few close up pics of that area so that I can determine how far I should reinsert the tension strings into the brackets in my car. Maybe even measure with a measuring tape how much string is inserted from the top of the bracket and if it is crimped with anything else at the bottom of the bracket, or just sits there . Maybe this is too much to ask, but the only dealer here has not had a c70 on the lot for me to see. I've also been looking for some that are for sale but they've been soft tops, not hard top like mine. Any help would be appreciated. If you want to email me: yahabibi@bellsouth.net. I'd be willing to help walk someone through a liner repair by phone if needed. Glad to help. Thx so much!
I figured out the routing and improvised a makeshift solution for my strings that had pulled out of the holders. As shown in the attached pictures, I had some thin wire that fit through the remaining holes, and I tied the string to that wire. It took some trial and error to get the overall length correct, which affected the timing of the flaps closing and how they overlapped with the other ceiling panels. During that trial and error, one of the flaps caught on a headrest (I think), which over-stretched one of the springs. Ultimately though, what's pictured here works well now. It's not the prettiest solution, but the wire is hidden when the top is fully up and fully down, so it's rarely visible.
I used rivnuts. They are a threaded nut insert that goes into the metal hole in the steel roof. I then used machine screws and a flat washer to attach the cloth headliner to the top. This worked well for me and was done for under $30 for the rivnut kit and the cost of the machine screws and washers. I used a sharp pointed awl to puncture the headliner to install the screws into the rivnuts. The head of the screws show on the inside of the car. You could cover them with headliner upholstery or a push on cover that is headliner colored if that bothers you. The screws do not get close to the roof sections.
My roof had previously been repaired and the backing on the headliner was getting thin from removing adhesives that did not hold.
i bought the rivnut kit at Home Depot.
Did a search on home depot web site and couldn't find "rivnut". Was that a typo?
05-31-2019, 11:15 AM
