Hi. I'm new.

I currently have a little 98 Nissan Sentra with almost 70K miles (yes, really). About 8 months ago, it ditched me on the side of the road needing a new distributor cap and rotor. About 2.5 months ago, same thing (on that bridge that collapsed in MN, so I am well acquainted with the new one). About two weeks ago... same thing. There's nothing else detectably wrong with the car, and I'm ready for a change, even if it means I no longer drive stick. (although buying a remote start and pre warming my butt would be sweet when it's -15 out)

My mom had Volvos and so the big gray "box-on-wheels" that was our 88 wagon made me vow when I was 13 and knew everything that I would never own one. Yes, it still runs somewhere.

There's a cute black 98 C70 (coupe not convert) that I went and test drove yesterday. It has 124K, a few small scratches and one ding, and needs a cleaning inside (a little grimy), but ran well enough (I thought I felt one hiccup when idling). The dealer will fix the AC, which didn't blow cold when I tested it. The leather seats felt a little dry and needed some conditioning, but didn't have any major rips (a few surface cracks). It had the dolby surround speakers. The sunroof worked well, the windows were a little slow...
He admitted it had been on the lot for the last 7 months. It did live in AZ until 2008, which would explain why the leather needs more moisture. I ride horses so I have lots of leather stuff to treat that. The finish is still really good though, just a few small scratches here and there and the one ding (which didn't break paint).

I did love the handling, acceleration, and feel of it though.

He wants 5500 for it. I'm checking out another one in my area with 115K and is a 99 for 4000. It's white though, and is missing a headlight wiper and the thing on the grill, so I'm worried it's been abandoned more. :/

I remember hearing that the 2000 and newer models aren't expected to last as long as the earlier ones since that's when Ford bought Volvo. How much truth is there to this? Have post 2000 volvos achieved high miles too? Is the reliability still good? Am I better off with late 90s than early 00s?

I have a local mechanic (within walking distance) who works on race cars and always fixes my car for cheap, so as long as the parts aren't too expensive, the labor is nearly free. I also have a truck I drive when my car's in the shop (and can tow with a strap if it dies at home or close enough).

I'd still love my little stick Sentra but I can't afford to keep dumping distributor money into it, and again, I want something less practical before my baby-making years kick in (although I'll miss 37 mpg for sure).

 

Realistically the car will cost more in maintenance than your Sentra. How much more imo will mostly depend on the previous owners driving and vehicle maintenance. Nissan is one of only a few manufacturers that normally have a neutral wire on the manual transmission. This means that installing a remote start should be extremely safe to operate. Slow window movement could be an indication of possible window regulator failure, and those are pretty pricey.

 

As long as it doesn't cost 250-800 every 2-4 months, I'd be game. It'd be nice if it doesn't leave me on the side of the road either, although maybe I should invest in AAA.

So how much truth is there to the pre/post 2000 thing?

 

15 mpg in heavy traffic. 11 mpg in snow and ice according to a Seattle driver.

Abysmal end links, don't replace them with stock, get the heavy duty ones. Very sloppy, D-student engineering in the front suspension. It's as if the suspension was built on another planet. The rest of the car is much better. When you do the end links, get a strut brace, the car will feel like a million bucks.

Everything will break over time if it hasn't already. Keyless entry failure could leave you stranded. Things will wear out relatively quickly. The ABS module will fail but can be rebuilt for about $150, the oil fill cap will leak on the engine and cause problems. Replace the seal immediately if it's leaking.

The heated seats will really be nice in winter, so will the traction control if the car has that option. If you drive 5,000 miles a year like me, this car will be good if you have an honest mechanic. Arizona cars have little rust, so that's a plus.

I did all of the easy maintenance... new oil/fuel filters, tranny flush, etc when I purchased mine, it helps me to sleep at night. This car is going to be inherited by my nephew in 35 years. It's my adolescent dream.


Good luck.

 

In heavy snow/ice I take my 3/4 ton pickup, and that gets 12mpg. 4WD FTW.

Dumb question- why when the keyless entry fails couldn't you just use the key? Did it not have a keyhole and I missed it? Or do you mean if the battery dies in the key and it won't start?

My truck's ABS computer died a couple weeks ago (two days before car died during my funnest week ever), and my mechanic just turned off the ABS- it's a 94, and the ABS only operate my rear brakes, where the truck has little weight. My current car doesn't have ABS.

What if I drive 12K a year?

 

the only thing I see wrong is the price of the volvo your drove. He is asking WAY too much if its been sitting there that long. I did a TON of research before I bought my 2002 c70 HT Convertible yesterday. I negotiated the price down to 5,200. Its in EXCELLENT (with some VERY minor cosmetic problems) condition. The leather is still 98% clean, all options work. The top is newer. Carfax said it had three owners and no known accidents and it only had 90K miles. Do your research and be ready to negotiate like crazy. They insisted on 7,900. I wouldnt let them win.

Now, this isnt to say it wont die in a week from now. But hey, getting the right price is the best part of the battle!

 

The keyless failure was related to a worn-out power door lock button on the driver's side. Replacing the power window/lock unit (about $150 with shipping) will fix the problem. The remote may even work again. If you ever get left stranded by the associated immobilizer feature, turn the over the key in the ignition, then shut off and remove. Then open the passenger door, shut it, then do the same to the driver's door. Wait for the flashers to go off, then use the key in the doorlock to lock and then unlock. Then use the power door lock button to lock and unlock it again.The flashers/alarm should not come back on. Then it should restart. If the button doesn't work, the car won't start. Repeat the process until it starts. Better yet, if the window/lock button is worn out, replace it before any trouble starts. Preventative maintenance is king when owning an old Volvo.

The ABS is a little trickier, you really need ABS with this car due to its high weight. Plus, you want a safe car. I've read where the module can be taken out fairly easily, and if you're handy with a soldering iron, you can repair the cracks in the circuit board. Opening the module up is the trick, it may have to be glued back together.

With the economy the way it is... spending big bucks to keep a gas guzzler on the road is unproductive. I'm learning how to think like a mechanic thanks to the people here. I've probably saved $3,000 in repairs thanks to the help I've gotten.

 

Oh, and the immobiliser/keyless entry issues.... are littered throughout this site. The one I commented on only applies to the power door lock problem. It seems there are 10 different ways to cause lockout.

 

With 12,000 miles a year being put on a car like this.... you'll have to be vigilant and try to second-guess upcoming maintenance issues. I wouldn't own this car if I was putting on that many miles. 'Would probably opt for a tiny econocar and pray daily that I don't get crushed by an SUV.

 

AAA is nice to have. Pre/post does not apply, it would be 98 and some 2002 models if you are describing possible ETM or TPS failure. Other than that they are more similar than different. Auto transmission went from 4 to 5speed, maybe 01 or 02.

You can use the key, keyless entry and immobilizer are 2 different electrical systems not related.

You'll get high teens or low 20's in the snow.

ABS being necessary is a matter of opinion. Ask yourself the question, if it never activates, do you really need it? Of course this argument could be used for anything.