'02 S40, laundry list....
You're more than welcome.
Yes, there was a few folks posting about different things here......lol
I'm just learning the Volvo quirks myself, but wrench on all my own Range Rovers here, including the one I put a LSx into....
And if anyone needs a tool, I have both the one I made myself here, and the bought one.
Martin
Yes, there was a few folks posting about different things here......lol
I'm just learning the Volvo quirks myself, but wrench on all my own Range Rovers here, including the one I put a LSx into....
And if anyone needs a tool, I have both the one I made myself here, and the bought one.
Martin
@Leftlanetruckin
Hopefully I can get a little picture diagnosis Seems I have had a few shops misdiagnose the oil leak.
This is my first Volvo and being that timing belt was done just 37K ago, maybe it is me but I do not think that that is the problem after looking at it this morning. I have no engine codes, nor has vehicle ever had an oil light go on since I have had it (7k miles)
So here goes with some pictures.
Timing belt

Plugs





Left side timing belt

and last but not least, from underneath seems congested at the drain plug, would lov it to be that simple

Hopefully these pics will give a clue as the shops I have had seem off with their ideas and there is really not a close shop around that I trust yet.
I have done all the work myself so far but have no where close to the expertise of some of the members here.
Thanks opinions are gladly welcomed!
Hopefully I can get a little picture diagnosis Seems I have had a few shops misdiagnose the oil leak.
This is my first Volvo and being that timing belt was done just 37K ago, maybe it is me but I do not think that that is the problem after looking at it this morning. I have no engine codes, nor has vehicle ever had an oil light go on since I have had it (7k miles)
So here goes with some pictures.
Timing belt

Plugs





Left side timing belt

and last but not least, from underneath seems congested at the drain plug, would lov it to be that simple

Hopefully these pics will give a clue as the shops I have had seem off with their ideas and there is really not a close shop around that I trust yet.
I have done all the work myself so far but have no where close to the expertise of some of the members here.
Thanks opinions are gladly welcomed!
Last edited by Random; Dec 20, 2015 at 10:31 AM.
That is a whole lot cleaner than the one I just did! I used @ 15 cans of brake cleaner on that one!
Seems the oil is around the rear of the oi cooler? Top looks pretty dry from the pictures.
If the top is dry, and the oil is coming from lower down, I'd suspect the front main seal or camshaft seals second. There are turbo lines that could blow there I guess, but my guess would be FMS.
Best bet is to completely clean it, and then keep a close eye on it to see the most forward and highest wet spot. Oil flows backwards from the wind, and down from gravity.
Martin
Seems the oil is around the rear of the oi cooler? Top looks pretty dry from the pictures.
If the top is dry, and the oil is coming from lower down, I'd suspect the front main seal or camshaft seals second. There are turbo lines that could blow there I guess, but my guess would be FMS.
Best bet is to completely clean it, and then keep a close eye on it to see the most forward and highest wet spot. Oil flows backwards from the wind, and down from gravity.
Martin
That is a whole lot cleaner than the one I just did! I used @ 15 cans of brake cleaner on that one!
Seems the oil is around the rear of the oi cooler? Top looks pretty dry from the pictures.
If the top is dry, and the oil is coming from lower down, I'd suspect the front main seal or camshaft seals second. There are turbo lines that could blow there I guess, but my guess would be FMS.
Best bet is to completely clean it, and then keep a close eye on it to see the most forward and highest wet spot. Oil flows backwards from the wind, and down from gravity.
Martin
Seems the oil is around the rear of the oi cooler? Top looks pretty dry from the pictures.
If the top is dry, and the oil is coming from lower down, I'd suspect the front main seal or camshaft seals second. There are turbo lines that could blow there I guess, but my guess would be FMS.
Best bet is to completely clean it, and then keep a close eye on it to see the most forward and highest wet spot. Oil flows backwards from the wind, and down from gravity.
Martin
The turbo o-ring and gasket are clean.
I think you may be on to something with the oil cooler, perhaps that is first in line, then I guess if it is one of those seals I am due for a complete timing belt as well?
Thanks for your insight.
The hoses that go to the cooler are coolant hoses.
The cooler connects to the engine and has o rings there.
The problem I see with the belt, is not from wear, time,miles etc, but from being covered in oil.
Here is a diagram of the cooler

Make sure it isnt leaking.
I would get everything clean,and run the motor to see what gets wet first. If it is the front main seal, I'd replace the timing set. Same for a camshaft seal.
If it's the cooler or something else, leave it alone if it was documented being done 37k miles ago.
Time wise to do it is hard to guess for me. I did a lot of other jobs at the same time (PCV system, and so on). Doing one on its own though, and this is from Alldata which is pretty accurate as a rule, cam belt alone 2.5hrs. Add in the front main seal, cam seals, water pump, tensioner and idler, it comes to 5hrs. Water pump is .8hrs of that time, front main seal .6hrs.
Martin
The cooler connects to the engine and has o rings there.
The problem I see with the belt, is not from wear, time,miles etc, but from being covered in oil.
Here is a diagram of the cooler

Make sure it isnt leaking.
I would get everything clean,and run the motor to see what gets wet first. If it is the front main seal, I'd replace the timing set. Same for a camshaft seal.
If it's the cooler or something else, leave it alone if it was documented being done 37k miles ago.
Time wise to do it is hard to guess for me. I did a lot of other jobs at the same time (PCV system, and so on). Doing one on its own though, and this is from Alldata which is pretty accurate as a rule, cam belt alone 2.5hrs. Add in the front main seal, cam seals, water pump, tensioner and idler, it comes to 5hrs. Water pump is .8hrs of that time, front main seal .6hrs.
Martin
The hoses that go to the cooler are coolant hoses.
The cooler connects to the engine and has o rings there.
The problem I see with the belt, is not from wear, time,miles etc, but from being covered in oil.
Here is a diagram of the cooler
Attachment 12508
Martin
The cooler connects to the engine and has o rings there.
The problem I see with the belt, is not from wear, time,miles etc, but from being covered in oil.
Here is a diagram of the cooler
Attachment 12508
Martin
Thanks for the quick reply. As to what I underlined, I thought it looked pretty dry. ? Covered in oil?
I am betting it is those two oil seals from your diagram
I would get everything clean,and run the motor to see what gets wet first. If it is the front main seal, I'd replace the timing set. Same for a camshaft seal.
If it's the cooler or something else, leave it alone if it was documented being done 37k miles ago.
Martin
If it's the cooler or something else, leave it alone if it was documented being done 37k miles ago.
Martin
Cooler has never been done on vehicle as far as I know,
These were all done 37k ago
30751700,9458309,9440651,6842273,8630590,274338,30 638277,6DPK-18418627994,8642278,31251456,31251439 Looks like it was done right
The whole top of this was covered in oil and crud, no telling how long it had been leaking really bad. I just looked for a foto of it, but guess I didnt take one of it before I cleaned it up. It was saturated though, all around.
After the wiring harness gets here, I'll spray degreaser everywhere and break out the pressure washer, so I can keep an eye on it for her.
Here is the simple cam lock I made for it, while waiting on the official tool (that I have yet to even unwrap). As soon as you loosen the cambelt, it WILL rotate the cams, as they will be on lobe on some cylinder(s)


Martin
After the wiring harness gets here, I'll spray degreaser everywhere and break out the pressure washer, so I can keep an eye on it for her.
Here is the simple cam lock I made for it, while waiting on the official tool (that I have yet to even unwrap). As soon as you loosen the cambelt, it WILL rotate the cams, as they will be on lobe on some cylinder(s)


Martin
Water pump, cam seals, pulley, cam belt, tensioner, serpentine belt, turbo gasket and oil return o ring/gasket. looks like they covered most of it!
The other thing that can and will spurt oil everywhere is the VVT pulley. The one on this certainly had, and they are a known oil leak source.
Genuine Volvo 2000 2004 V40 S40 VVT Exhaust Timing Gear New | eBay
Although if you aren't getting any codes, and the engine is dry up there, it probably isn't leaking as of right now.
Martin
The other thing that can and will spurt oil everywhere is the VVT pulley. The one on this certainly had, and they are a known oil leak source.
Genuine Volvo 2000 2004 V40 S40 VVT Exhaust Timing Gear New | eBay
Although if you aren't getting any codes, and the engine is dry up there, it probably isn't leaking as of right now.
Martin
After cleaning up underneath, it does not look like I have much of an oil leak, it has never been low on the dipstick.
I am having my doubts on oil cooler, looks like the little bit of oil there ended up there, not the starting point.
I guess I am going to keep under watch for a while, but I am going to start with a new drain plug and gasket along with an oil change and filter.
The last oil change, high mileage was put in but exclusively before that it had MB1 0W 40 every change So I am going to go back to MB1 0W 40 or Castrol Edge 0W 40
Oil is clean as can be, I do have a Fram synthetic for 15,000 in. Do you recommend tossing it and using Mann
I have no cross contamination between anti-freeze and oil so it seems like car is OK. I am just going to use it for short jaunts for the time being while evaluating if there is a issue.
After reading here and elsewhere of peoples problems with major oil leaks, I only have a few drops on driveway that I did not have two months ago.
PS I got confused when you were talking about timing belt covered in oil, I thought oyu meant mine but you were referring to yours
I am having my doubts on oil cooler, looks like the little bit of oil there ended up there, not the starting point.
I guess I am going to keep under watch for a while, but I am going to start with a new drain plug and gasket along with an oil change and filter.
The last oil change, high mileage was put in but exclusively before that it had MB1 0W 40 every change So I am going to go back to MB1 0W 40 or Castrol Edge 0W 40
Oil is clean as can be, I do have a Fram synthetic for 15,000 in. Do you recommend tossing it and using Mann
I have no cross contamination between anti-freeze and oil so it seems like car is OK. I am just going to use it for short jaunts for the time being while evaluating if there is a issue.
After reading here and elsewhere of peoples problems with major oil leaks, I only have a few drops on driveway that I did not have two months ago.
PS I got confused when you were talking about timing belt covered in oil, I thought oyu meant mine but you were referring to yours
Yeah it only took half a can of BC so it was not that bad.
Looking at drain plugs, wanted to get an idea. OEM or magnetic ones. Also what type of gasket. I have seen copper/aluminum that gets crushed, or rubber , a new one each time regardless of type, which of those three would be best?
TIA
Looking at drain plugs, wanted to get an idea. OEM or magnetic ones. Also what type of gasket. I have seen copper/aluminum that gets crushed, or rubber , a new one each time regardless of type, which of those three would be best?
TIA
Half a can? Lucky you! I was going through a case at a time....lol
I use a copper washer myself on stock drain plugs. I get a selection of them at Harbor Freight and use them for banjo bolts, drain plugs, etc. They even had the right size ones for the coolant and oil lines on the turbo in the box!
80 Piece Copper Washer Assortment
For stuff like that, you can't beat HF.
For the oil filters, I am partial to K&N, but cant remember the make that I put in the S40 as my kid picked up the filters and plugs.
Martin
I use a copper washer myself on stock drain plugs. I get a selection of them at Harbor Freight and use them for banjo bolts, drain plugs, etc. They even had the right size ones for the coolant and oil lines on the turbo in the box!
80 Piece Copper Washer Assortment
For stuff like that, you can't beat HF.
For the oil filters, I am partial to K&N, but cant remember the make that I put in the S40 as my kid picked up the filters and plugs.
Martin
And still waiting for the coil harness from Tasca. Yep, a week and a day now, for a small light package.
As far as I know, that's the only thing it's waiting on to be on the road. But it's kind of hard to test drive it when it's running on 2 cylinders. Oh well, live and learn. For the extra couple of Dollars the next place wanted, the difference ($5-10) is not worth it.
Martin
As far as I know, that's the only thing it's waiting on to be on the road. But it's kind of hard to test drive it when it's running on 2 cylinders. Oh well, live and learn. For the extra couple of Dollars the next place wanted, the difference ($5-10) is not worth it.
Martin
And still waiting for the coil harness from Tasca. Yep, a week and a day now, for a small light package.
As far as I know, that's the only thing it's waiting on to be on the road. But it's kind of hard to test drive it when it's running on 2 cylinders. Oh well, live and learn. For the extra couple of Dollars the next place wanted, the difference ($5-10) is not worth it.
Martin
As far as I know, that's the only thing it's waiting on to be on the road. But it's kind of hard to test drive it when it's running on 2 cylinders. Oh well, live and learn. For the extra couple of Dollars the next place wanted, the difference ($5-10) is not worth it.
Martin
First time I took the Volvo out today since cleaning, jacked it up again and took probably the best pic to tell where leak is coming from.

Seems right above oil pan and to the left, oil cooler looks dry.
To Random
I recently did my vvt hub , exh seal and intake seal not knowing where it was exactly coming from. Oil on inside of timing belt cover, EXACT same mess on my boot and control arm.
I recently did my vvt hub , exh seal and intake seal not knowing where it was exactly coming from. Oil on inside of timing belt cover, EXACT same mess on my boot and control arm.
Thanks, do you have part #s for those and how long did it take?
Merry Christmas everyone!
This is all for a 2002. Check that they are the same for you...
I'd be tempted to get a timing set if you are pulling the belt anyways. Not to mention it's been soaked in oil
Pulley
Genuine Volvo 2000 2004 V40 S40 VVT Exhaust Timing Gear New | eBay
Timing set, which includes cam seals
Fits Volvo C70 S40 S60 S70 V40 V50 XC70 XC90 Timing Belt & Water Pump Kit
Cam plug you'll need to reseal the intake on the back end
Volvo S40 V40 C70 S70 V70 S60 Set of 2 Cylinder Head Plugs Pro Parts 1397381 | eBay
I also did the VVT solenoid
New Proparts Cam Adjust Solenoid 21432683 Volvo 36002683 | eBay
This does not include a front main seal, this one wasnt leaking.
Not knowing what tools etc you have, and your skill level, I'd give it a day to complete. Think I posted book time on here already.
Martin
I'd be tempted to get a timing set if you are pulling the belt anyways. Not to mention it's been soaked in oil
Pulley
Genuine Volvo 2000 2004 V40 S40 VVT Exhaust Timing Gear New | eBay
Timing set, which includes cam seals
Fits Volvo C70 S40 S60 S70 V40 V50 XC70 XC90 Timing Belt & Water Pump Kit
Cam plug you'll need to reseal the intake on the back end
Volvo S40 V40 C70 S70 V70 S60 Set of 2 Cylinder Head Plugs Pro Parts 1397381 | eBay
I also did the VVT solenoid
New Proparts Cam Adjust Solenoid 21432683 Volvo 36002683 | eBay
This does not include a front main seal, this one wasnt leaking.
Not knowing what tools etc you have, and your skill level, I'd give it a day to complete. Think I posted book time on here already.
Martin



