'02 S40, laundry list....
I plan on giving it three days to a week, I think I am alright with tools, other than I do not have a vise or grinder or a cam lock tool.
I think I will become more glued to Youtube than my kids and that will be hard in itself. Needless to say it will be a first for me.
Once I start, I will probably need a few pointers I am sure. First I am going to get a good look at it with the left timing cover off and see if I dare undertake it.
As for the pulley (6900015) Are they normally replaced whole or are there seals like overhauling existing one. I will bite a few bullets if necessary.
Last edited by Random; Dec 24, 2015 at 03:26 PM.
There are o rings that can be replaced, but I wouldn't. I'm all for saving a buck, until it takes me 2 days and countless trips to town to do so!
A good set of torx bits would be the only other thing to be sure you have.
I have the holding tool I made, plus the one I bought. You are more than welcome to borrow one if you need to mate.
Martin
A good set of torx bits would be the only other thing to be sure you have.
I have the holding tool I made, plus the one I bought. You are more than welcome to borrow one if you need to mate.
Martin
I have a feeling that pretty much anywhere will be behind because of Xmas, amazingly I got a light bulb from California to Texas in time for a Xmas tree.
First time I took the Volvo out today since cleaning, jacked it up again and took probably the best pic to tell where leak is coming from.

Seems right above oil pan and to the left, oil cooler looks dry.
First time I took the Volvo out today since cleaning, jacked it up again and took probably the best pic to tell where leak is coming from.

Seems right above oil pan and to the left, oil cooler looks dry.
Well the harness turned up Thursday, so put that on and cleared all codes.
Ran it up the road, and can still hear a very slight exhaust leak. Thinking it is from the down pipe to turbo, or turbo to manifold, as the manifold got surfaced, and I had to reuse the metal gaskets on the turbo.
It's now running on all 4 though, so that is good!
It needs an alignment pretty bad, after doing the front end work.
Would take it for a test run, alignment and inspection, but waiting on Lexi's parents adding it to their insurance. It will have to be registered in her name, seeing as they are insuring it. My inspection guy is a muffler/exhaust shop, so can have Gary pinpoint the leak when it's there.
Feels pretty peppy for a small 4 cylinder motor, so that is good!
Martin
Ran it up the road, and can still hear a very slight exhaust leak. Thinking it is from the down pipe to turbo, or turbo to manifold, as the manifold got surfaced, and I had to reuse the metal gaskets on the turbo.
It's now running on all 4 though, so that is good!
It needs an alignment pretty bad, after doing the front end work.
Would take it for a test run, alignment and inspection, but waiting on Lexi's parents adding it to their insurance. It will have to be registered in her name, seeing as they are insuring it. My inspection guy is a muffler/exhaust shop, so can have Gary pinpoint the leak when it's there.
Feels pretty peppy for a small 4 cylinder motor, so that is good!
Martin
Well the harness turned up Thursday, so put that on and cleared all codes.
Ran it up the road, and can still hear a very slight exhaust leak. Thinking it is from the down pipe to turbo, or turbo to manifold, as the manifold got surfaced, and I had to reuse the metal gaskets on the turbo.
It's now running on all 4 though, so that is good!
It needs an alignment pretty bad, after doing the front end work.
Would take it for a test run, alignment and inspection, but waiting on Lexi's parents adding it to their insurance. It will have to be registered in her name, seeing as they are insuring it. My inspection guy is a muffler/exhaust shop, so can have Gary pinpoint the leak when it's there.
Feels pretty peppy for a small 4 cylinder motor, so that is good!
Martin
Ran it up the road, and can still hear a very slight exhaust leak. Thinking it is from the down pipe to turbo, or turbo to manifold, as the manifold got surfaced, and I had to reuse the metal gaskets on the turbo.
It's now running on all 4 though, so that is good!
It needs an alignment pretty bad, after doing the front end work.
Would take it for a test run, alignment and inspection, but waiting on Lexi's parents adding it to their insurance. It will have to be registered in her name, seeing as they are insuring it. My inspection guy is a muffler/exhaust shop, so can have Gary pinpoint the leak when it's there.
Feels pretty peppy for a small 4 cylinder motor, so that is good!
Martin
Just passed for inspection, which is also a muffler shop. I looked, they looked, and neither one of us can find the small leak!
Will let it be for now.
Got the alignment done also, so it now has it's first 20 miles on it.
Going to price some tires for the 15" rims, it has a slight wobble from tires.
Martin
Will let it be for now.
Got the alignment done also, so it now has it's first 20 miles on it.
Going to price some tires for the 15" rims, it has a slight wobble from tires.
Martin
I got a set of Falken G4 for $270 from Discount tire and I really like them so far.
As for power steering fluid, it is a possibility, I know where I got it aligned they thought I had a bad rack and pinon gear Car sounds really good and runs well with no cel light so maybe it is, although I could swear it is oil on my driveway, although it is just a few drops here and there.
Been busy with relatives from out of town so things are back to normal now.
I have been parking the Volvo for now until I get more time to investigate further.
Well, she got a P0014 and 0015 codes this morning. My kid read them at the parts store he works at.
Exhaust cam timing....
Will look into it on here, but would that normally be the new solenoid not doing its job correctly??
artin
Exhaust cam timing....
Will look into it on here, but would that normally be the new solenoid not doing its job correctly??
artin
Crap. Well if you are very lucky that might be it. However more than likely your timing belt is one tooth off. That or a bad vvt but yours is new, right?
Everything is new yes.
I can check the timing easily enough, but it runs good enough that I am doubting it.
She said if the light is on when she starts driving it, it normally goes off during her commute. And vise versa, light off when starting, comes on during the commute.
If the timing was off, would it be that intermittent?
I dont have a problem admitting the timing is off, I'm far from perfect, but wouldnt that make for a permanent code?
Martin
I can check the timing easily enough, but it runs good enough that I am doubting it.
She said if the light is on when she starts driving it, it normally goes off during her commute. And vise versa, light off when starting, comes on during the commute.
If the timing was off, would it be that intermittent?
I dont have a problem admitting the timing is off, I'm far from perfect, but wouldnt that make for a permanent code?
Martin
I can share my experience with P0015. I have had 2 S40s, 2002 and currently have a 2004 w/1.9T. Never had the P0014/P015 with the 02 and sold it with 200k km. The 04 has the P0015 and 147k km but no impact on performance.
Swapped the solenoid with a used one and didn't make a difference. Made sure the screen in the gasket was clean. I believe the previous owner didn't do regular oil changes or used dyno vs. synthetic. Sludge buildup or a slug of it can get caught in the small passages between the solenoid and the VVT hub (or within the hub or exhaust cam) The cam sensor could be an issue but it's expensive and less likely the issue. Also the cam itself could be at fault. Using a 1/2L of trans fluid before an oil change made a difference as it went a week without throwing a code *but it returned. The colder temperatures throws the code much more quickly (normally goes a couple of days after reset) as the oil thickens/viscosity I believe. I have also used seafoam to give the motor a cleaning and use synthetic and filter changes every 3 months, now had it 9 months.
Ten days ago had a strange thing happen. Went to the store and when leaving the parking lot got a hesitation from the motor for 3-4 seconds like it was missing, thougt maybe a coil was going. Checked the codes and nothing new and reset the P0015. Have not had the code return and have done a lot of driving since over the holidays. I have never had it go this long without the CEL light. My guess is what ever was plugging an oil passage final gave way as indicated by the hesitation and the cam shaft responding to the oil pressure within the hub. Hard to say if the cleaning/temperature finally did the trick but I feel like it is gone now.
With your new hub, it's possible some gunk made its way to the hub. If the solenoid is clicking when power is applied, probably something to do with oil flow. All you can do is go through a process of elimination - check the solenoid operation and gasket, check the connection to the cam sensor, check the timing of the new hub gear and mounting with cam locked from the back, flush the motor, remove the cam gear, pull the little plunger with o-ring and make sure the passage is clean. It may correct itself, Good luck!
Swapped the solenoid with a used one and didn't make a difference. Made sure the screen in the gasket was clean. I believe the previous owner didn't do regular oil changes or used dyno vs. synthetic. Sludge buildup or a slug of it can get caught in the small passages between the solenoid and the VVT hub (or within the hub or exhaust cam) The cam sensor could be an issue but it's expensive and less likely the issue. Also the cam itself could be at fault. Using a 1/2L of trans fluid before an oil change made a difference as it went a week without throwing a code *but it returned. The colder temperatures throws the code much more quickly (normally goes a couple of days after reset) as the oil thickens/viscosity I believe. I have also used seafoam to give the motor a cleaning and use synthetic and filter changes every 3 months, now had it 9 months.
Ten days ago had a strange thing happen. Went to the store and when leaving the parking lot got a hesitation from the motor for 3-4 seconds like it was missing, thougt maybe a coil was going. Checked the codes and nothing new and reset the P0015. Have not had the code return and have done a lot of driving since over the holidays. I have never had it go this long without the CEL light. My guess is what ever was plugging an oil passage final gave way as indicated by the hesitation and the cam shaft responding to the oil pressure within the hub. Hard to say if the cleaning/temperature finally did the trick but I feel like it is gone now.
With your new hub, it's possible some gunk made its way to the hub. If the solenoid is clicking when power is applied, probably something to do with oil flow. All you can do is go through a process of elimination - check the solenoid operation and gasket, check the connection to the cam sensor, check the timing of the new hub gear and mounting with cam locked from the back, flush the motor, remove the cam gear, pull the little plunger with o-ring and make sure the passage is clean. It may correct itself, Good luck!
The car was sat for quite a while before I got it, so no telling what the oil galleys are like.
I wont be pulling the pulley apart, as it's new and under warranty.
Same for the solenoid.
The way the VVT gear slides on then exhaust cam is far from ideal in my opinion. It should be keyed etc.
May try to run it with some motor flush, then change the oil again.
Martin
I wont be pulling the pulley apart, as it's new and under warranty.
Same for the solenoid.
The way the VVT gear slides on then exhaust cam is far from ideal in my opinion. It should be keyed etc.
May try to run it with some motor flush, then change the oil again.
Martin
She isn't working tomorrow, so I will have it to mess with.
I had some motor flush on the shelf, so will try that out.
May also double check the timing while I have it here.
Any other suggestions?
Martin
I had some motor flush on the shelf, so will try that out.
May also double check the timing while I have it here.
Any other suggestions?
Martin
Timing checked, perfect.
Putting an inline splice in place of the bleeder fitting on the lower hose, it was leaking and cant get one locally.
Will run some flush in it then change oil and filter. Reset the CEL and see what happens....
The Ebay seller said he hasn't had any issues out of the solenoid, but will swap it out for the same brand FOC, of another $40 for a Volvo one...... Thoughts?
Martin
Putting an inline splice in place of the bleeder fitting on the lower hose, it was leaking and cant get one locally.
Will run some flush in it then change oil and filter. Reset the CEL and see what happens....
The Ebay seller said he hasn't had any issues out of the solenoid, but will swap it out for the same brand FOC, of another $40 for a Volvo one...... Thoughts?
Martin
Last edited by Leftlanetruckin; Jan 5, 2016 at 07:17 AM.
Good luck with the code, this is the thread here that I follow the most!
I found this on a solenoid for sale on Ebay.
This item consists of one CVVT Solenoid for the Volvo turbo models listed below made between 2000 and 2004. This solenoid can have a huge impact on your engine's performance as well as its emissions. If your vehicle is throwing a P0014 or P0027 code, this solenoid may be the culprit.
Solenoid
We have been having a lot of nasty rain lately but will back to work on mine, car still runs great and no cel so I guess it is paranoid preventable maintenance, got a Mahle oil filter today so the oil change should give me more of a heads up.
I found this on a solenoid for sale on Ebay.
This item consists of one CVVT Solenoid for the Volvo turbo models listed below made between 2000 and 2004. This solenoid can have a huge impact on your engine's performance as well as its emissions. If your vehicle is throwing a P0014 or P0027 code, this solenoid may be the culprit.
Solenoid
We have been having a lot of nasty rain lately but will back to work on mine, car still runs great and no cel so I guess it is paranoid preventable maintenance, got a Mahle oil filter today so the oil change should give me more of a heads up.
I flushed it with some engine cleaner, and changed oil and filter.
Cleared the codes, so we'll see if they come back. If they do, a Volvo solenoid will be in order I think.
Martin
Cleared the codes, so we'll see if they come back. If they do, a Volvo solenoid will be in order I think.
Martin
OK, first 20 or so miles, no CEL I've been told.
As far as the solenoid/VVT goes, it got checked then added a cleaner to the oil, ran it for 5 minutes, and gave it some fresh 5w30 and a filter.
Found a small leak, it's the oil filler cap. The gasket is now a piece of round plastic instead of rubber! Kid will order a new one from work and install.
Will keep you updated.
Martin
As far as the solenoid/VVT goes, it got checked then added a cleaner to the oil, ran it for 5 minutes, and gave it some fresh 5w30 and a filter.
Found a small leak, it's the oil filler cap. The gasket is now a piece of round plastic instead of rubber! Kid will order a new one from work and install.
Will keep you updated.
Martin
The VVT solenoid is a duty cycle device that feeds pressurized oil alternately to the advance and retard sides of the VVT pulley stator vanes.
The VVT solenoid piston gets varnished and sticks. This video will give you the general idea.
Last edited by migbro; Jan 5, 2016 at 01:29 AM.


