Ok, so my daughter bought this vehicle from a public auction. When she bought it, some white smoke was blowing from the exhaust. She eventually had the head gasket replaced. She told me that the car drove fine after the repair. A month or two later, she ran into stalling problems. So, she took it to another mechanic in a different part of town. Long story short, I eventually had it towed to my house. I had a 740GLE so I'm not unfamiliar with Volvos. After some observation, I noticed the cover for the camshaft position sensor was being held on by a nylon zip tie. Really?

Fast forward to two weeks ago...

I bought a OBDII reader and plugged it in. These are the codes that were thrown...

P0101
P0102
P0014
P0340
P0172

I replaced the camshaft position sensor. And I cleaned the MAF sensor. While I was at it, I decided to change the spark plugs, cables and coil packs. Then, I replaced the fuel filter (filthy dirty). Why won't this car start? I erased the codes, and it's not throwing any other codes. Obviously, there is still some issue. But where should I start? I'm hoping it hasn't jumped timing.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Who did the cylinder head job? Trustworthy? Requires a lot of disassembly including the timing belt system. My guess is the problems you're having now are mostly related to the cylinder head job.

Step one is take the upper timing belt cover off and check the belt tension. After that I'd check the crank/cam timing, make sure the cam marks are aligned when the crank is at TDC.

P0101 and P0102 are MAF sensor codes. P0014 is a camshaft timing code. P0340 is a camshaft position sensor code. P0172 means mixture too rich but it could be caused by a missing, cracked or broken vacuum line.

Get the exhaust cam VVT pulley properly timed first with the timing belt correctly tensioned. Check that all vacuum lines and electrical connectors are correct and serviceable and that there are no air leaks in the intake tract. Replace the camshaft position sensor if necessary, the MAF sensor if necessary and then finish up by chasing down the mixture problem if it remains, which it probably won't. You should probably also replace the fuel pressure regulator as these are notorious for going bad on these cars.

 

Thank you for your response. I don't know who did the head job, but I probably wouldn't take it back to him anyway. But I just came in from looking at the car, and it appears to be a new (ish) timing belt. It's cold out today, so I have to go back and check the timing marks on the belt pulleys. Maybe the timing is off. Not sure if that would create a no start issue. I was also curious if it was perhaps a start control module. They're expensive, so I hope that's not it. As far as the fuel reg, i have god pressure in the rail. I ha en. He ked it with a gauge, but that's just an initial assessment. Is there something that may be shutting down the injectors maybe?

 

You didn't say if it's not cranking or cranking but not starting. If not cranking, maybe starter control module. If cranking but not starting, not starter control module.

I'd be more inclined to first go get a junkyard MAF sensor.

 

Well, Like I said, I replaced the cam position sensor, and cleaned the MAF. but it still won't start. I'll check the timing as you suggested. I just didn't have a lot of time to do it today. And yes, you're right. There's no need for the half assed theories. Because that's all they are at this point. I'll check the timing as soon as I can.

Thanks again

 

Cleaning the MAF sensor won't fix it if it's inoperative. Try disconnecting the MAF altogether and attempting to start. Engine will start in alternate mode with MAF disconnected. If engine starts MAF is the problem.

Ask your daughter where she last bought gas. More than one person has spent hours chasing a mechanical problem that turned out to be a tank of bad gas. I might take the time to drain the tank and refill with fresh gas just to be sure that's not the problem.

Also check the spark plugs, I don't know why but these engines appear to have a strong preference for the OEM plugs.

And look closely for vacuum leaks. Check the famous S-shaped hose at the front of the engine that connects to the intercooler.

 

Well, I did disconnect the MAF, and she still wouldn't start. But that would be a performance issue, and not a no start issue, right?

As far as where she got gas from, she doesn't remember, but I never thought of a batch of bad gas. Heck, what can it hurt? Sure beats chasing my tail.




The plugs are Bosch Platinums. I'll look for the OEM plugs, as they seem to be a reliable favorite. And this S40 is Turbo charged.


I wish I had a gauge, then I can accurately check the fuel pressure on the rail. I've read many posts where the FPR was the cause of no starts and other performance related issues. I may just replace it.


Thanks for your help migbro. Your time is greatly appreciated.

 

If they're Bosch Platinum Plus 4s you may have found your problem. Either way it's not a bad idea to change them out.

For the fuel pressure regulator you can buy the complete assembly, Volvo 8658092, about $200.

You can also buy a NAPA fuel pressure regulator (CRB 219874) which I've heard is a Volvo part in a NAPA box, about $165.

Or you can buy the capsule only, Volvo 9404583, about $125.

 

Update:
Today, I decided to do some recon. Upon my search for any loose connections, damaged wiring, etc, I noticed the crankshaft sensor was loose...like someone didn't tighten the 10mm screw all the way. So, I tightened it up. I then tried to start it with no luck. So I plugged in the code reader and found 2 codes thrown. P0118 (coolant temp sensor) and P0122 (throttle position sensor). Prior to this, no other codes were thrown after I replaced the camshaft sensor. I may go back out and check the connections before it gets too dark. I just shake my head as this is the second time I found a loosened sensor on this engine. And seeing how this car was in the hands of a "mechanic" amazes me that these things were never noticed...or dealt with.


Anyways, I'll go and check the condition of the wiring, connectors, etc. if they look corroded, I'll try cleaning them thoroughly. If that doesn't work, I'll be replacing them.

 

Are you kidding? The "mechanic" did that. Anything to get it out of the shop two minutes faster.

You need to be methodical. There's a pretty good list you have to work through. You will end up spending some money you didn't need to but it'll still be cheaper than paying a "mechanic."

 

Yes!!! The mechanic left them that way...I'm assuming. But it's something he should have caught. Anyway, the car is my daughter's, so the money spent wasn't a waste. So.e things needed to be addressed anyway. But I feel like I'm close to getting it on the road for her.